Jimmy66 39 #1 Posted September 13, 2022 I got my first Wheel Horse, a 606, running nicely! Right on schedule, I found someone who discovered an old Raider 12 in a field out back behind their home. It doesn't have the patina, simplicity, or completeness of my 606, with it's little pull start 6 hp Tec, so it will definitely give me more to do before I can drive. All the tubes aired up, save for one. It was off the bead, and the tube was punctured. I was hoping that was what hobbled this horse. 12 hp K301 had pristine oil in it, a little low but still within spec. Has points condenser and electric start. Ignition wires need some checking over. Spark plug looks good, and it turns over freely by hand. I don't feel compression by hand, but maybe that is due to ACR? It was missing the air cleaner cover, and so the choke was sized (closed, thankfully.). Still haven't freed up the throttle though. Hoping it would start up, after refreshing all connections and contacts. But how can I start it without a key (safely?). Lastly, the unidrive has me scratching my head. I see the legends for high/low but there is no stick for it. Also the diagram on the shifter is not what I was expecting. The shifter does not want to go in gear, and when I opened the fill plug, only water came out. I did not see the drain plug like on my 5053. Maybe missing, I need to double check now that I think of it. Any how I suspect a rebuild is in order. So big questions/challenges are should I kerosene flush it, what unidrive is it, how can I start with no key, and any precautions to be aware of before trying to crank it up. 3 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,369 #2 Posted September 13, 2022 Nice. Tins look to be straight. Lots to work with there. Maybe not the original gear box? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,887 #3 Posted September 13, 2022 31 minutes ago, Jimmy66 said: The correct shift pattern should be the one on the sticker not the shift knob. The high low shifter could be missing or some one may have put a 3 speed tranny in it. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heatingman 971 #4 Posted September 13, 2022 Think many keys will work, just noticed the other day when I was cleaning up the dash, the key for mine says Craftsman on it. Drain plug might be a little hex for an allen key. like this: 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 866 #5 Posted September 13, 2022 Was that style of decals used on that style of hood?? Looks like a three bolt hub on the left side?? Can you make out the model number tag?? That would help. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,751 #6 Posted September 13, 2022 Didn't the early Raiders have the 10-pinion diff in the 6-speed? If so- I'm not surprised the tranny has been swapped out. Someone likely busted the differential and simply swapped for a 3 speed. That is what happened with my 867 as well. Overall a nice save regardless! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 866 #8 Posted September 13, 2022 My list says it is a 69 Raider 12 4 speed. If you are not feeling compression , maybe you have a stuck valve. Good luck with it and keep us posted on your progress !! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,751 #9 Posted September 13, 2022 18 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: My list says it is a 69 Raider 12 4 speed. I thought all Raiders were 6 speed? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #10 Posted September 13, 2022 Yup stuck intake valve. Just drained the tranny and got nothing but water...I think. I didn't taste it. Couldn't get the dog point set screw out yet to peek inside. Choke and throttle plates moving freely now. The cables are welded frozen though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #11 Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) According to the manual the 1969 model 1-6241 Raider 12 is a 6 speed. Edited September 13, 2022 by TJ Salyers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,535 #12 Posted September 13, 2022 Jimmy66 In time all things will work out. Over the years this has worked very well keeping cables free. As for the rest just take your time do some research here and you will be happy in the end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 866 #13 Posted September 13, 2022 If I am reading the tag right 1 6241,according to the model list that @Sparky posted, it says 69 Raider 12 4 speed . Maybe my old eyes is not seeing something right ??? Whatever it may be, it is a good find and hope you get it going with minimal work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moparfanforever 866 #14 Posted September 13, 2022 1-6241 1969 Lawn & Garden Tractor Raider 12 4-Speed Kohler K301S-47147C 12 Wheel Horse 5071 Copied this from the list , I guess it is right ??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,122 #15 Posted September 13, 2022 45 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said: 1-6241 1969 Lawn & Garden Tractor Raider 12 4-Speed Kohler K301S-47147C 12 Wheel Horse 5071 Copied this from the list , I guess it is right ??? The 5071 is a 10-pinion 6-speed limited slip differential. There was a 4-speed model in 1974 for the Raider 12 but export or European market only. At this point in time the model number also identified the model year. 4th digit 4 + 5 = 9 = 1969 4th digit 5 + 5 = 10 = 1970 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heatingman 971 #16 Posted September 13, 2022 9 hours ago, Jimmy66 said: Yup stuck intake valve. Just drained the tranny and got nothing but water...I think. I didn't taste it. Couldn't get the dog point set screw out yet to peek inside. Choke and throttle plates moving freely now. The cables are welded frozen though Whats a dog point set screw? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,493 #17 Posted September 13, 2022 7 minutes ago, Heatingman said: Whats a dog point set screw? It’s what hold the shift lever in the top of the tranny. Has a jam nut to hold in place once it’s where ya want it. 1/4-20 threads I think. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,824 #18 Posted September 13, 2022 @Jimmy66 sounds like collective neglect over the years , water in trans , stuck valve frozen cables ,https://www.zoro.com/super-lube-4-oz-hydraulic-oil-bottle-150-iso-viscosity-85w-sae-51004/i/G5124506/? you might try penetrating oil aerosol on the cables , but I use this super lube oil on all my cables , keeps them slick . would also slowly run in that engine on a separate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel ,that tank is probably cruddy , fuel filters , would do a trans oil drop , go thru a series of fuel oil flushes , with road time , to slowly / hopefully recover what you have . new shift boot . too much to say here , gain what you can , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmy66 39 #19 Posted September 13, 2022 10 minutes ago, peter lena said: @Jimmy66 sounds like collective neglect over the years , water in trans , stuck valve frozen cables ,https://www.zoro.com/super-lube-4-oz-hydraulic-oil-bottle-150-iso-viscosity-85w-sae-51004/i/G5124506/? you might try penetrating oil aerosol on the cables , but I use this super lube oil on all my cables , keeps them slick . would also slowly run in that engine on a separate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel ,that tank is probably cruddy , fuel filters , would do a trans oil drop , go thru a series of fuel oil flushes , with road time , to slowly / hopefully recover what you have . new shift boot . too much to say here , gain what you can , pete What kind of fuel treatment/dosage do you recommend? I've never dealt with an engine that's sat so long, and want to do the right things before first start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,824 #20 Posted September 13, 2022 @Jimmy66 usually fresh fuel , bottle of seafoam , treatment , , would also drop carb bowl , probably loaded up with debris . another thing , what does the oil look like ? like rotella # 30 , would also start it up easily , do not go into a screaming start up , let it run at fast idle , warming up use your hand over carb to help suck thru fuel effects . just look at how it runs , react to screwdriver use ? after you get some time on it , like first hot oil change , like rislone , zinc oil additive , use that regularly in my kohlers , very smooth , operation . adjust to enhance its function , add a fuel filter , before carb thats what I do , sending out good vibes to you on this , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,578 #21 Posted September 13, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Jimmy66 said: What kind of fuel treatment/dosage do you recommend? I've never dealt with an engine that's sat so long, and want to do the right things before first start. In general, I avoid fuel treatments unless it's to address a specific, known issue. Much more important to me is a clean and properly adjusted fuel system (tank, fuel lines, filters, pump, carb) that can safely deliver fuel to the engine. For a long-sitting-in-weather engine I'd be more concerned about rust or corrosion in the internals as well as excess wear and tear to the journal, wrist bearing, cylinder/piston/rings, valves/guides, crank bearings, etc. and the condition of the spark plug wire, coil, condenser, and points as well as any other electricals. Edited September 13, 2022 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites