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Heatingman

Manual PTO lube procedure

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Heatingman

Ive read many times @peter lena talk of swapping out the grease in the needle bearing.

 

Thats easy enough, but what about the ball bearing the PTO lever linage attaches to?

 

Looks like a well fit rubber shield over the balls. Dont want to damage it trying to keep it going another 50 years.

 

FE11E605-2212-49C3-ACB5-2601172BBA2A.jpeg

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Jeff-C175

Those seals are generally quite easy to remove.  Get a small screwdriver under the lip and gently lift it out.  There's a thin metal shim as part of the seal, try not to bend it.  Easily flattened if you do.

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squonk

Some of those bearings I've run across are steel shielded. Napa PP204RR6  $6.50. Almost not worth destroying the shields just to grease it

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peter lena

@Heatingman   agree with @Jeff-C175  on the easy seal removal , use a flat pocket screwdriver , carefully get it started , once it starts , you are good . the existing generic lubrication , is the problem , in both related bearings , the inner needle bearing also , needs a wipe out , and a smaller amount of  hi temp grease to prevent slinging onto clutch facing . lucas 560 deg , anti sling polyurea rated  chassis grease , is the deal . BTW  when ever I  get  ANY  bearing , the first thing I  look at is the side seal access , so I  can easily , do the grease change / upgrade .  EVERY RELATED BEARING  , in my pto lever drive  to mule drive to mower deck spindles has the grease  change over , how easily do you think that set up works ?  I  don't  continuously  mention this upgrade , just to have an argument , but you know what fails , this is the fix, used it for years , my 3 horses have the same reliable upgrade , lots of hours , and silent bearings , you are right there in the opportunity stage , why not do it ? pete    

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lynnmor
1 hour ago, squonk said:

Some of those bearings I've run across are steel shielded. Napa PP204RR6  $6.50. Almost not worth destroying the shields just to grease it

I don't fool with them, at the price it ain't worth it.  The only time I ever replaced those bearings is when I refaced the clutch surface.  That size bearing is available in rubber or metal shields.

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Heatingman

Was able to add grease with a little dental type pick without removing the shield. 
 

Tried working the shield off, its just on there too good. Felt like it would tear, so I called it good. 

Edited by Heatingman
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kpinnc

This may bring out a few comments- but I usually remove the seal on the inside of the small  bearing and leave it out. When I grease the large needle bearing, I push fresh grease into the smaller bearing as well.

 

Just my opinion... Your results may vary.

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Rick3478
2 hours ago, kpinnc said:

This may bring out a few comments- but I usually remove the seal on the inside of the small  bearing and leave it out. When I grease the large needle bearing, I push fresh grease into the smaller bearing as well.

 

Just my opinion... Your results may vary.

Won't centrifugal force spin the grease out of the bearing if you do that?

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peter lena

@Heatingman   whenever  I  buy a bearing , first thing I  look for is a rubber shield , my pocket flat screwdriver , makes short work of the seal , without damage . every one of my bearings has been redone , another thing  I  regularly  read  is  pto clutch units , being replaced , with the lube set up I  use , there is no struggle or screaming engagement , is that telling you something about  belt drive drag on related bearing rotation ? have not replaced my clutches . don,t understand all the related issues , not having any  drive drag , on pto lever , just smooth easy , quiet engagement . planning on lubing the inner needle bearing ? how about mule drive bearings ?  they are cake for easy removal , clean out / regrease , replace . lots of hours , no bearing noise , going to be selling some stuff , blower, plow, mower deck , weights , like new auger , all been touched with improvements , very scary , pete 

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lynnmor
3 hours ago, kpinnc said:

This may bring out a few comments- but I usually remove the seal on the inside of the small  bearing and leave it out. When I grease the large needle bearing, I push fresh grease into the smaller bearing as well.

 

Just my opinion... Your results may vary.

 

I use a high temperature synthetic grease in the large needle bearing, I am sure that it is not compatible with what is in the sealed bearing. 

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Heatingman
1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Heatingman   whenever  I  buy a bearing , first thing I  look for is a rubber shield , my pocket flat screwdriver , makes short work of the seal , without damage . every one of my bearings has been redone , another thing  I  regularly  read  is  pto clutch units , being replaced , with the lube set up I  use , there is no struggle or screaming engagement , is that telling you something about  belt drive drag on related bearing rotation ? have not replaced my clutches . don,t understand all the related issues , not having any  drive drag , on pto lever , just smooth easy , quiet engagement . planning on lubing the inner needle bearing ? how about mule drive bearings ?  they are cake for easy removal , clean out / regrease , replace . lots of hours , no bearing noise , going to be selling some stuff , blower, plow, mower deck , weights , like new auger , all been touched with improvements , very scary , pete 

I was able to remove the sheilds and regrease everything else - mule drive, etc… but not this particular bearing.

 

The rubber shield is not just a flat rubber over steel. This one is form fit rubber with an integral dust seal at the shaft point. 

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