Confusing diagram

[41chevy 74]

I guessing the positive terminal shown on top of the meter is the + and bottom - is to the witch.

[Handy Don 12,217]

The positive terminal of the ammeter goes toward the ignition switch solenoid (correcting my earlier post--my apologies, I misread my own diagram).

You want current flow from the stator/regulator through the switch and ammeter to the battery to show a positive current when the battery is being charged.

Edited September 6, 2022 by Handy Don

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

I thought it was the other way around  + to the battery side

Don't have any left to check. All volt meters now.

[41chevy 74]

Now I’m more confused.with those 2 answers.

[squonk 41,104]

What's confusing? You want the ammeter to show direction the current is flowing. When charging the current goes from the stator, to regulator, to switch ,to battery. So when it charges the needle points towards positive. Connect it and turn the lights on. If it show discharge you have it installed correctly. If it shows charging reverse the leads.

Edited September 6, 2022 by squonk

[rmaynard 15,458]

Negative (-) goes to the ignition switch, and positive (+) goes to the battery.

Typical wiring diagram shown below:

 

Edited September 6, 2022 by rmaynard

[953 nut 55,222]

According to @Save Old Iron the + will go to the Battery and the - to the B terminal on your ignition switch.

 

[peter lena 8,625]

@41chevy  not to add to the confusion , but enhance /  verify your grounding to that set up , like the battery ground cable bolt down point .  add an electrical lug to that bolt , so you can hook into a solid ground , only a suggestion pete 

[953 nut 55,222]

2 minutes ago, peter lena said:

verify your grounding

           I run my battery ground cable directly to a bolt that secures the Starter or S/G to the engine and then a #10 AWG jumper to the frame.

[peter lena 8,625]

@953 nut   for a long time I was mistakenly  going to existing w/h ground points , since eliminating / enhancing  / changing those points , to battery  , cable electrical lug connection  , there are no more issues . doing a wire refresh , typically use alligator wire test leads for  final ground / electrical  function , that simple bombproof  grounding at battery ground , has eliminated my problems , just my own experience , pete  

[peter lena 8,625]

@Maynard  think you have to get fed up with a constant never-ending problem to make a . corrective change . when ever I  do / try anything , I  go thru a testing / functional  usage  stage . first off , it dependably  works , now how can I  improve that ?  what that has often done is make that  problem area , solidly reliable ,  and working easier than it ever has . if its wiring , improve the layout , remove wire chafing /  corrosion , wire wrap. if its linkage , what's hanging up ? improve it , firm up linkage ends , lubricate / washers , work easier ?  noisy whining bearings ? have changed out the grease in all my problem areas , these problems are very common , its how you deal with them that makes the difference.. chronic problems have to be detail issue improved / changed to make them smooth / solid / quiet . my improvements , can  barely be seen , but they have made the function  stage , to a smoother / easier  usage . was fed up , now I  just change it out , can,t see it pete    

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

If you wire it backwards the only thing that will happen is that the meter will read discharge when it's charging and vice versa.

 

If that happens, just reverse the wires on the meter!

 

I've done it... and I'm too lazy to change it so I just know that if it's reading discharge, it's really charging.

 

[kwalshy 229]

3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I've done it... and I'm too lazy to change it so I just know that if it's reading discharge, it's really charging.

 

  Me too! 

But I couldn't take it anymore & had to reverse the wires after 2 years.

Edited September 6, 2022 by kwalshy