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Snoopy11

Camber Bushings... 1997 Ford Ranger

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Snoopy11

Hello my good people,

 

I don't know if any of you can help with this... but a few of you know that I lowered my '97 Ford Ranger. Well... obviously after doing the lowering... I have some negative camber... something like -2

 

I realize that the car will probably handle well on the road with this setup in the front... but I worry about tire wear.

 

Thus... a good while ago... I bought these camber bushings...

 

Alignment Caster Camber Bushing For F150 F250 Super Duty E350 Ranger ...

There is only 1 small problem. I HAVE NO CLUE HOW TO INSTALL THEM!!!

 

They came with instructions... but I am truly lost.

 

I would love to install these in a couple of weeks after I finish up some engine stuff on the Ranger... and fix the golf cart. I have another project machine coming later this month... so I hope to get this camber situation resolved before then.

 

Thanks guys, I'd appreciate anything you've got!

 

100_1783.JPG.d5d1797bd26e2000ef598ad2b1c17422.JPG

 

100_1786.JPG.086e73238efbd3314eccaad80113af26.JPG

 

100_1789.JPG.761cac1b9246765fae36dd3143bd0fc1.JPG

 

Don

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Jeff-C175

I believe they replace the non-adjustable bushings at the lower ball joint?

 

So you have to remove the old bushing, and install these.

 

Then by 'clocking' the adjustment around you affect the camber.

 

 

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I believe they replace the non-adjustable bushings at the lower ball joint?

Something like that...

 

K8970 by FEDERAL MOGUL-MOOG - Alignment Caster / Camber Bushing

 

Really my question boils down to the clocking of the bushing itself... as those bushings adjust camber and caster. I DO NOT want to mess up the caster. I just want to reduce camber a little.

 

Amazon.com: Moog K80109 Caster/Camber Adjusting Bushing (Renewed ...

 

Don

 

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squonk

How are you going to know you got the alignment right without a front end alignment machine?

 

I doubt you'll move caster very much. I used to sell hundreds of these bushings. I do not know the best way to install them. Never got any complaints. If you feel the need to DIY go talk to a local guy who does it for a living.

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, squonk said:

How are you going to know you got the alignment right without a front end alignment machine?

Sigh... valid point... I really can't get it 'perfectly' right. AND... I don't want to mess it up... because although it has negative camber, it is pulling in a straight line... not veering or anything silly.

 

1 minute ago, squonk said:

If you feel the need to DIY go talk to a local guy who does it for a living.

I will definitely do that. I may just have an alignment guy do it... just to save some grief on my end. I was thinking that I would do it myself to save some benjamins... but that might not be the best thing... :eusa-think:

 

Don

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Snoopy11
32 minutes ago, peter lena said:

any help ?

@peter lena that does give me an idea. That link you gave made me notice that there are different TYPES of camber bushings...  Instead of going with "adjustable" type... lining up letters and all that jazz.... maybe going with a "fixed" type bushing would be better? @squonk whatchya think?

 

I already know the truck is over 2 degrees negative camber... so if I go with 1-1/2 "fixed" bushings, that will reduce the negative camber CONSIDERABLY... which is really all that I am after here...

 

Part image

 

Hmm... thinking, thinking, thinking :eusa-whistle:

 

Don

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Snoopy11

Oh hell, I just found one that is Plus or Minus 2 Degree :banana-dreads:

 

Don

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squonk

What is even the spec on camber on your truck?  Ford frt ends wear out tires faster than most guys wear out underwear. If you put in a fixed bushing and it's still not correct you get to buy another bushing. Take it to an alignment shop and let the guys who do this all the time do it. You may need a different bushing for each side. They can put it on their laser machine determine what's needed and do it. 

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, squonk said:

If you put in a fixed bushing and it's still not correct you get to buy another bushing

This is true... plus, I already have the adjustable bushings "in stock"

 

Most people that I see online say to put the adjustable bushings in, then head to the alignment shop. Then all the alignment guys have to do is turn the little boogers... :ph34r:

 

Good thing I talked to you guys about it before I decided to do anything... definitely reassuring that I am doing the right thing. :)

 

Don

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peter lena

@Snoopy11  , had my grandsons ranger fitted with , new upper control arms and related hardware / bushings , they did a 4 wheel alignment , difference was amazing , tracked like a new car , shop also had a solid reputation , searched  around , worth it , pete

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ri702bill
33 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Snoopy11  , had my grandsons ranger fitted with , new upper control arms and related hardware / bushings , they did a 4 wheel alignment , difference was amazing , tracked like a new car , shop also had a solid reputation , searched  around , worth it , pete

I agree - a 4 wheel 'Thrust angle" alignment matches the front wheel angles to the "It's old and may not be perfect" rear axle housing as it sits on the rear springs. It disregards the body of the vehicle - the best way to go on a 2WD half ton...

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Jeff-C175

Your pic shows the 'twin I-beam' suspension.  So what I said earlier about the BOTTOM was wrong.  I thought you had control arms, etc...

 

I think a proper alignment is probably the best also.  

 

Keep in mine that changing the camber will also affect the toe a slight amount.  Probably not enough to be noticeable, but it will change.  When you move the top of the knuckle OUT to give more positive camber, the tie rod will not be a tiny amount too short.

 

But, since you lowered it, the toe is probably already out anyway! 

 

I gather you're not a fan of this:

image.png.b09eab2a2b09a931aa46d92d49a20edc.png

 

Or, heaven forbid, the "Carolina Squat" ?

 

image.png.64731ef6834e8417ab16e399b6ddce20.png

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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peter lena

@Snoopy11  yes when my daughter and grandson got the truck , quickly made up a plan to thoroughly baseline  check  every bit of it , timing belt , accessory belt  , control arms , rustproofing body soak , everything was checked and verified for operation. doing very so far , probably break job in the spring , grampa, pete  

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Snoopy11
16 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Snoopy11  yes when my daughter and grandson got the truck , quickly made up a plan to thoroughly baseline  check  every bit of it , timing belt , accessory belt  , control arms , rustproofing body soak , everything was checked and verified for operation. doing very so far , probably break job in the spring , grampa, pete  

Yes sir. I got this green Ranger 5-6 months ago, and have been doing those things ever since. I still have a long way to go... but it runs great, everything on the truck works as it should, all fluids are changed... new AC compressor, new alternator... among other things.

 

I'm going to start hitting it hard again this Fall!

 

Don

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Snoopy11
16 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I gather you're not a fan of this:

Well, I do know a couple of trucks around here that look like that, Jeff.

 

The Silverado truck that you posted is a LOT like one of the guys around here... (his truck is completely blacked out though)... and guess what the sticker on his back window says?

 

It says in bold white letters: Johnny Cash

 

:banana-guitar:

 

Don

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peter lena

@Snoopy11  glad to hear you are on it , get some of your favorite  penetrating oil into those closed areas , doors , fender lip areas , tailgate, all suspension , every body seam ,  in a couple of days you will see a  lubrication band at the bottom areas , indicating its soaking thru  to drive out moisture and replace with lasting lubricant . use the can extension tube , in all the tough spots , can,t go wrong with it ,  sheds water like a duck , quack quack , pete

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Snoopy11
5 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Snoopy11  glad to hear you are on it , get some of your favorite  penetrating oil into those closed areas , doors , fender lip areas , tailgate, all suspension , every body seam ,  in a couple of days you will see a  lubrication band at the bottom areas , indicating its soaking thru  to drive out moisture and replace with lasting lubricant . use the can extension tube , in all the tough spots , can,t go wrong with it ,  sheds water like a duck , quack quack , pete

It is really interesting, as old as this truck is, the previous owner did a heck of a job keeping it in excellent condition. No rust on the body or undercarriage. Truly impressive. Just a matter of maintaining and improving now! :banana-dance:

 

Don

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