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In search of wheel horse

Ignition coil for charger 12 k301s motor

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In search of wheel horse

I’m searching for a replacement or a way to repair mine, the wire connection on the end of it broke off. BC981D06-DD20-448B-B049-94F4456C0DAF.jpeg.5a89a50fbca03626d5a6ea512511a477.jpeg2D5FF054-D406-443E-B91D-4CE45CE0D4FD.jpeg.550ecdf1cf85f6a0f847d2fce4bad384.jpeg

Edited by In search of wheel horse

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953 nut

:WRS:

The item you have pictured is not a starter generator, it is a trigger ignition coil. This thread will give a lot of information on the system in addition to alternative ignition systems if you should decide to go that route.

 

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squonk

Show us a picture of the broken off terminal. I had the same thing happen to me and I was able to dig around the area of the coil were the terminal is an expose enough metal to be able to latch another wire end on. It's already broke, you can't spoil a rotten egg.

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953 nut

Here is the testing procedure for the coil from the Kohler Service Manual.

458530882_Screenshot(75).png.37b28e2b2c7ce23a4af1875ee98b3313.png

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In search of wheel horse
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

The picture of the black one is from online, but it shows where the piece goes that broke off. F09ECF26-BA97-4DCF-9282-F86B87D7074B.jpeg.c96f97a8ddde1bcac8634423cf1583a1.jpegD2AC159D-5D50-4EF8-9FF2-1519CD74ED35.png.84930d9df8dea2cc2c05e7b90d038a28.pngThis one is from online but it shows where the broken piece goes. 

9BBA0451-B3D2-4B47-8360-496DDFD75333.jpeg

C4D0DD78-662C-48A3-8B11-F3D32A067860.jpeg

79B4787A-78BA-4CFD-982B-974D175F80E1.jpeg

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In search of wheel horse
2 hours ago, squonk said:

Show us a picture of the broken off terminal. I had the same thing happen to me and I was able to dig around the area of the coil were the terminal is an expose enough metal to be able to latch another wire end on. It's already broke, you can't spoil a rotten egg.

The black one that only shows the one end shows the flat male spade style wire connection that broke off (at least that’s what I believe that one is called). The black one I found the image of online but that one is no longer for sale. 

E7799DB2-7A18-4AC9-A14B-787AF4D0CD59.png

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squonk

Lets see you broken coil end.

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In search of wheel horse
2 minutes ago, squonk said:

Lets see you broken coil end.

There’s very little of the connector left.  exposed

B91FBBC9-A7E8-4608-8FC2-8ADFA5D56F38.jpeg

9C79960B-7430-466F-BB84-C609CC7584D7.jpeg

63D6F055-4946-4F4A-9C7D-729FA748B3A4.jpeg

2BA6CAC8-E9B6-416E-AAF0-0857785615FD.jpeg

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squonk

Ok you can dig around that rubber/plastic and expose the remnants of the terminal. If I remember right, I used a dremel tool to cut away around the terminal piece then ground the metal square and used a smaller female spade terminal to fit on the coil. I did this on a GT-14 about 10 years ago

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Mike'sHorseBarn

I'd take a dremel with a little grinding wheel and very carefully remove some of that plastic around that broken terminal and see if you can expose enough metal to make it work. If not oh well, it doesn't work the way it is currently. 

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oldlineman

maybe expose some so that a piece of wire can be soldered onto it.

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Jeff-C175
4 hours ago, squonk said:

I used a dremel tool

 

4 hours ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

I'd take a dremel

 

Yup.  Me too.  Once you own a Dremel, you find ALL kinds of uses for it!  They are really handy tools.

 

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ineedanother
6 hours ago, oldlineman said:

maybe expose some so that a piece of wire can be soldered onto it.

I don't think I would try to solder that but exposing enough to drill through to attach something threaded might provide a good connection point and hold up to the vibration better. :confusion-shrug:

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Jeff-C175
18 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

I don't think I would try to solder that but exposing enough to drill through to attach something threaded might provide a good connection point and hold up to the vibration better. :confusion-shrug:

 

I don't think I would trust solder either.  If I could expose enough to pop rivet or nut and bolt (2-56 hardware) I would follow with solder though.  Or maybe a short wire pigtail soldered on with a male faston on the end.  Maybe a blob of epoxy for extra measure.

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peter lena

@In search of wheel horse what's stopping you from  changing that coil location ,? if it were me , you can leave the old dead one there for looks , fake hook up , and get another coil in a  better location , mounted on a , anti vibration pad , make the problem go away , repetitive  problems  give you a choice  , you know what doesn't  work , change it out , pete

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In search of wheel horse
5 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@In search of wheel horse what's stopping you from  changing that coil location ,? if it were me , you can leave the old dead one there for looks , fake hook up , and get another coil in a  better location , mounted on a , anti vibration pad , make the problem go away , repetitive  problems  give you a choice  , you know what doesn't  work , change it out , pete

This coil isn’t the same as all of the other coils out there on the market. This coil was made for a short time and only used on a few different models. I just went and spent an hour in a junkyard looking for the part and unfortunately I didn’t even see one of the black canister coils let alone the one I need.

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Mike'sHorseBarn
1 minute ago, In search of wheel horse said:

 let alone the one I need.

 

Yea these coils aren't easy to find in working condition. Even when you find on it's still a 50 year old coil. A lot of people convert these back to battery ignition when these go bad. Meaning installing points, changing the ignition switch, putting on a standard 12V coil etc. I have this same coil on an Electro 12 and when that coil inevitably does I already have the parts on the shelf to do a conversion.

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Jeff-C175
5 minutes ago, In search of wheel horse said:

the one I need

 

Just curious... have you given any thought to repairing the one you have via the methods discussed earlier?

 

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In search of wheel horse
6 minutes ago, Mike'sHorseBarn said:

 

Yea these coils aren't easy to find in working condition. Even when you find on it's still a 50 year old coil. A lot of people convert these back to battery ignition when these go bad. Meaning installing points, changing the ignition switch, putting on a standard 12V coil etc. I have this same coil on an Electro 12 and when that coil inevitably does I already have the parts on the shelf to do a conversion.

I’m looking for the parts to possibly go that route but I’ve never converted one so I’m not sure about it. 

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In search of wheel horse
4 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Just curious... have you given any thought to repairing the one you have via the methods discussed earlier?

 

I don’t have a dremel, I’m hoping to make it to my parents next week to see if my dad can do it.

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Mike'sHorseBarn
2 minutes ago, In search of wheel horse said:

I’m looking for the parts to possibly go that route but I’ve never converted one so I’m not sure about it. 

 

Here is a youtube video that shows you how to do it, it's not difficult. Keep in mind one thing he doesn't tell you in this video is that you can't use this kind of ignition switch without a solenoid which your tractor currently doesn't have. You can see where he put one in the video, but if I was gonna use one, I would hide it somewhere a little less obvious. 

 

 

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Jeff-C175
5 minutes ago, In search of wheel horse said:

I don’t have a dremel, I’m hoping to make it to my parents next week to see if my dad can do it.

 

Well... if worst comes to worst, I can offer to take a look and fix it if possible, but that would mean paying shipping here to NJ and back to MI with the possibility that it may in fact not be possible to fix.  It's a gamble for you but if your willing to take the odds, I'm willing to try.  Send me a PM if you are interested.

 

In the meantime, can you get a clear, close photo of the broken terminal ?  The ones you posted are all out of focus.  Does your phone have a MACRO function for close photos?  I may be able to tell more from that.

 

 

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squonk
59 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Well... if worst comes to worst, I can offer to take a look and fix it if possible, but that would mean paying shipping here to NJ and back to MI with the possibility that it may in fact not be possible to fix.  It's a gamble for you but if your willing to take the odds, I'm willing to try.  Send me a PM if you are interested.

 

In the meantime, can you get a clear, close photo of the broken terminal ?  The ones you posted are all out of focus.  Does your phone have a MACRO function for close photos?  I may be able to tell more from that.

 

 

They pretty much break right where the terminal comes out of the coil body. You can even cut the plastic away with a hack saw blade if you don't have a dremel. and the use a file to shape what metal you expose so a regular terminal end would slip on.

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pfrederi

Before anything else conduct the two tests in the manual.  No point in fixing the terminal if the unit is bad.  You should be able to stick your multimeter probe in the broken end enough to make contact.

 

 

test.JPG

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23 Reo

Try to repair your original trigger ignition. They are unique and work well. My 68 Charger 12 is my best starting tractor and runs strong.

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