lynnmor 7,307 #2 Posted August 26, 2022 Typical repair by a clueless amateur. Somehow they think that the wires need to be moved about. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #3 Posted August 26, 2022 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: Typical repair by a clueless amateur. Somehow they think that the wires need to be moved about. Now how could I figured out what are original and fix it. Is that solenoid needed? My new starter is coming tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #4 Posted August 26, 2022 Just now, RITEK said: Now how could I figured out what are original and fix it. Is that solenoid needed? My new starter is coming tomorrow. Download the wiring diagram and make the wires like it shows. You would need to download the diagram for a newer tractor that doesn’t use the solenoid if you want to eliminate it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #5 Posted August 26, 2022 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: Download the wiring diagram and make the wires like it shows. You would need to download the diagram for a newer tractor that doesn’t use the solenoid if you want to eliminate it. It's a 88? 89? 520hc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #6 Posted August 26, 2022 Just now, RITEK said: It's a 88? 89? 520hc I guessed that. The newer 520H tractors didn’t use the solenoid. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #7 Posted August 26, 2022 Just now, lynnmor said: I guessed that. The newer 520H tractors didn’t use the solenoid. I thought that was aftermarket Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #8 Posted August 26, 2022 Just now, RITEK said: I thought that was aftermarket Nope. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #9 Posted August 26, 2022 Just now, lynnmor said: I guessed that. The newer 520H tractors didn’t use the solenoid. Well i guess as long as it starts I'm fine but currently I'm concerned because before my starter died the battery charge level was in the red and the tractor seemed sluggish Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #10 Posted August 26, 2022 If your voltage is too high you will ruin a lot of things, get that fixed pronto. Maybe a voltage regulator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #11 Posted August 26, 2022 8 minutes ago, lynnmor said: If your voltage is too high you will ruin a lot of things, get that fixed pronto. Maybe a voltage regulator. How do I know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #12 Posted August 26, 2022 Looks like an all around @Sparky got ahold of it! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heatingman 971 #13 Posted August 26, 2022 When we see that at work, we figure the tech has stock in Ideal, so for every wire nut or connector used, they get a little back. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Heatingman 971 #14 Posted August 26, 2022 Get a proper schematic, remove all the needless connections, get a good wire loom, and clean it all up. Messy wiring just makes it that much more difficult to troubleshoot problems. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #15 Posted August 26, 2022 41 minutes ago, RITEK said: How do I know? Download the Onan service manual and do the tests, but first be sure that the regulator is grounded with its mounting bolt and the engine is grounded well at the battery cable. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moonshine*Connoisseur 435 #16 Posted August 26, 2022 I would start over and make a new harness. When i make one, I add multiple ground wires, designate a common ground on the tractor, near the battery, there should be one already there on the right hand side that connect to the battery. I run an extra cable from there directly to the engine block. Then from your common ground again a smaller gauge wire to the starter solenoid. Then another to the body of the voltage regulator. Never have had a problem. 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,324 #17 Posted August 26, 2022 1 hour ago, Pullstart said: Looks like an all around @Sparky got ahold of it! What did I do?? … 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #18 Posted August 26, 2022 2 minutes ago, Sparky said: What did I do?? … Oh did I tag you? figured I’d get a rise! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,290 #19 Posted August 26, 2022 Here is an overall wiring drawing as well as separate drawings for each system. If you have questions as you go along just start a new post, 520-HC wiring help or something like that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,145 #20 Posted August 27, 2022 1 hour ago, Heatingman said: When we see that at work, we figure the tech has stock in Ideal, so for every wire nut or connector used, they get a little back. The 3M guys invest in Scotch locks! 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #21 Posted August 27, 2022 14 hours ago, RITEK said: 14 hours ago, lynnmor said: If your voltage is too high you will ruin a lot of things, get that fixed pronto. Maybe a voltage regulator. How do I know? I see that nobody answered your question re how to ck voltage might be too high, and, that is a critical question!! You need a voltage meter/multi-meter to, firstly ck the output of the system, it shud be around 35ish AC volts coming out of the 2 wires from the flywheel to the rectifier. then it shud be 13-14DC volts coming out of the rectifirers single wire. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RITEK 25 #22 Posted August 27, 2022 9 minutes ago, pacer said: I see that nobody answered your question re how to ck voltage might be too high, and, that is a critical question!! You need a voltage meter/multi-meter to, firstly ck the output of the system, it shud be around 35ish AC volts coming out of the 2 wires from the flywheel to the rectifier. then it shud be 13-14DC volts coming out of the rectifirers single wire. I would check this with the engine running? I know everything else about a tractor but the electrical. I'm so used to the points and condenser. 🤦 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #23 Posted August 27, 2022 @Moonshine*Connoisseur fully agree with you on the added grounding , easy to add an ELECTRICAL BOLT ON LUG , as you build up , use it like a washer under a solid clean bolt down point , dielectric grease , now you always have a sure grounding spot to go to . added those to my horses , its a verified go to ground , typically use 10-12 ga wire , wire wrapping makes it neat , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,233 #24 Posted August 27, 2022 (edited) 20 minutes ago, RITEK said: I would check this with the engine running? I know everything else about a tractor but the electrical. I'm so used to the points and condenser. 🤦 Yes, engine running. With engine off, the outer connectors on the regulator will have zero, since engine is not generating electricity. With switch on but engine stopped, the inner connection on the regulator should have the same voltage as the battery "+" to "-" -- if different, you have either a wiring issue or a bad regulator. The test sequence in the Onan manual seems a bit like overkill at first with all the steps, but it is brilliant for drilling down to the right place--stick with it! Edited August 27, 2022 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #25 Posted August 27, 2022 36 minutes ago, RITEK said: I would check this with the engine running? I know everything else about a tractor but the electrical. I'm so used to the points and condenser. 🤦 I see that you didn't download the Onan Service Manual. Your questions will be answered on pages 8-4, 8-5 and 8-6. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
