Building Demolition

[bc.gold 3,403]

The demolition almost completed, salvaged.

 

1. Galvanized roofing.

2. 2"x12" x 16 ft.

3. 2"x8" x 20 ft.

 

All of the lumber is first growth Douglas Fir, number one clear.

 

Thoughts on using Canola oil as a wood preservative, this oil soaks into the wood with good penetration but it's a non drying oil. On the test piece I did the water sloughs right off.

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

Nice save on the lumber.

Any reason why you need to treat it now and now wait until you use it for a project? Kept dry and under cover it shouldn't degrade.

[bc.gold 3,403]

My love / hate relationship with Ardox nails.

 

The one by four strapping underneath the tin roofing had the be cut on each side of the 2"x8"ths then using a small hatchet split the small secured section that remained.

 

After splitting those pieces were easily removed exposing  the Ardox.

 

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

2 hours ago, bc.gold said:

Ardox nails

Yep, they are great for making sure things stay together but killers for reusing materials.

A prime Doug Fir 2in x 8in x 20ft beam around here goes for $36+ and it won't be nearly as dense a grain as what you've got there.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

On 8/15/2022 at 9:29 AM, bc.gold said:

lumber

 

Hopefully you don't have the dreaded "Powder Post Beetle" up your way?

Inspect carefully for tiny pinholes if you do have them there.

"TIMBOR" treatment would be advised if they are present.

 

[bc.gold 3,403]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Hopefully you don't have the dreaded "Powder Post Beetle" up your way?

Inspect carefully for tiny pinholes if you do have them there.

"TIMBOR" treatment would be advised if they are present.

 

Only thing noted was a ton of mouse poop and the husks from choke cherry pits.

Edited August 16, 2022 by bc.gold

[bc.gold 3,403]

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Yep, they are great for making sure things stay together but killers for reusing materials.

A prime Doug Fir 2in x 8in x 20ft beam around here goes for $36+ and it won't be nearly as dense a grain as what you've got there.

 

Usually repurposed wood will split when driving a nail in it, my father taught me to fist hit the pointed end of the nail to prevent splitting the wood.

 

For some reason the blunted end when driven into old and dried wood will not split it.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

10 minutes ago, bc.gold said:

 

Usually repurposed wood will split when driving a nail in it, my father taught me to fist hit the pointed end of the nail to prevent splitting the wood.

 

For some reason the blunted end when driven into old and dried wood will not split it.

 

If you turn the nail over to hit the pointy end and blunt it to prevent splitting, put the HEAD of the nail where you intend to drive the nail.  This helps also.  Creates a little 'divot' to place the blunted nail.

 

If it's pointy, it acts like a wedge.  If it's blunted, it shatters the fibers as it's driven and not as likely to split.

 

Doesn't always work!  But does often enough to make it worthwhile.  ESPECIALLY when doing trim work!

It's one thing when you split a 2x lumber, but you really don't wanna split a fancy casing.

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

53 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

but you really don't wanna split a fancy casing

I converted to a cordless brad nailer a few years back when faced with a full gut reno of a bathroom. One of the best investments I've ever made in a tool. It's been passed around and my son is using it now.

I happened the other day on the drawer that has my nail set collection and thought, "well those puppies aren't gonna get a lot of use anymore!"

[formariz 11,987]

3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

If you turn the nail over to hit the pointy end and blunt it to prevent splitting, put the HEAD of the nail where you intend to drive the nail.  This helps also.  Creates a little 'divot' to place the blunted nail.

 

If it's pointy, it acts like a wedge.  If it's blunted, it shatters the fibers as it's driven and not as likely to split.

 

Doesn't always work!  But does often enough to make it worthwhile.  ESPECIALLY when doing trim work!

It's one thing when you split a 2x lumber, but you really don't wanna split a fancy casing.

 

  To be sure that splitting does not happen , I also predrill for the nail either by using a push drill or using an actual nail on a drill as a bit. Diameter of hole will be perfect for nail allowing the head to do the actual holding as it should and not the nail body. Body should hold only on the material the casing or molding is being held to.  Another casualty of progress is the actual casing nail which is different from a finish nail particularly on the head shape. 

 

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I converted to a cordless brad nailer a few years back when faced with a full gut reno of a bathroom

 I understand the value of a pin or nail gun but rather do it by hand. There is an art to driving a nail. The where and how is the secret to it. Using a nail gun there is usually indiscriminate nailing as it is often seen. Too many  nails most in the wrong places. Also a molding properly nailed by hand with the proper nails has a classy look not needing concealment . Concealment is most times badly done just advertising even more what is obviously there. 

Edited August 17, 2022 by formariz

[Handy Don 12,233]

13 hours ago, formariz said:

There is an art to driving a nail.

Absolutely true. And when I was doing a lot of carpentry, I was in good practice for framing, roofing, and finishing. Now those projects are infrequent and my skill (along with my strength, stamina, and agility) has atrophied. I still, though, take care to use the minimum number of fasteners--excess is wasteful!

[bc.gold 3,403]

Any Archers on the forum, I see some nice arrow blanks being cut in the near future.

 

D-Fir first growth, tight grain.