1967 T1267 won’t move

[stevasaurus 22,856]

Well, no doubt it would be nice to know how you plan on using this horse ??   There is a huge difference between turning dirt for a garden and mowing a flat lawn 1/2 acre or less.  The problem I still have is I still see no real reason that your horse would not move...even with the cracked plate.  (I've seen them broken in half)...and with the bull gear still there, you would at least get some back and forth.

options...

1. Those aluminum end plates came with the #5060 transmission.  The #5071 came with cast iron end plates for obvious reasons.  That would be a good upgrade...and they are inter-changeable.

2.  Flipping the pinions is an option, but it would be better to find better ones.  Flipping them still leaves 1/2 the pinion engaged with the axle gear, and the other 1/2 engaged with the pinions from the other side.  Could file burrs if just mowing the lawn.

3.  Finding another used transmission, 10 pinion or 8 pinion differential, could be worse then what you already have.

4.  Emory cloth the aluminum end plates.  Yours look like they were low on oil in the transmission.

5.  Could check with Squonk's reference and see what he has.  Could replace broken piece and go to the Big Show next June to find a replacement.  Could go with 8 pinion differential, but you also need to get the 2 piece mushroom gear. (see above service bulletins).

6.  It is always nice to have a spare transmission, either for parts or to change out.  A good spare should be around $150 if it has been gone through by someone that knows what they are doing.

7.  Let WHX?? fix your hubs...they will be like new.

 

Let us know what you are thinking.  I have to ask...did you take out the gears to be able to check the Hi/Low shift fork???    I'm still wondering why your horse did not move.

Edited October 6, 2022 by stevasaurus

[JimSraj 432]

The horse is intended to be used as a mower at my WV camp.  There is about and acre there that is mostly flat or near flat with a small portion that is sloped a little more. 

As I stated earlier in this thread I found the keyway in the right side hub to be  all wallowed out and the hub had slid in toward the trans. I didn’t see that until I was starting to take it apart. 

The 5071 sounds like a good idea. Or the end plates from one to swap into mine. I wouldn’t mind just putting a ‘known to be good’ 5071 in if I can find one. I’ll d definitely check into Squonks referral to see what he might have. Are you saying that a good differential from a 5071 would fit my axles and trans?  If so that could be an option too. 

WHX?? says he can do it and K&B has then for $35 as well so looks like the hub issue can be resolved fairly easily. 

Thanks again for your help and willingness to share your knowledge. 

Ill keep ya posted on the progress. Work on it is intermittent bc there is a honey do list as well and fall is a busy time too. 

[JimSraj 432]

Thanks Squonk I’m going to find him and see what he’s got. 

[squonk 41,309]

9 hours ago, JimSraj said:

Thanks Squonk I’m going to find him and see what he’s got. 

I'll PM you

[stevasaurus 22,856]

The differential in both the #5060 & #5071 is the same except the aluminum to steel end plates...slides right in.  Remember, the 2 end plates are different in the Limited Slip transmissions.  There is a right and a left side...so if you just buy end plates, you need one of each.    It sounds like the hub was your movement issue.    I think you would be fine with your transmission (replacing the pinion holder on one side).  But find a good spare to be on the shelf.

[JimSraj 432]

Sure hoping it was the hub but I’m still going to look into getting the 5071 differential or at least the cast end plates from one. As I said if I could find a ‘known to be good’ 5071 at a reasonable price I’d be likely to just swap it in and keep the one I have as a spare parts piece. We’ll see what is out there soon and I’ll keep you all updated. Thanks again. 

[JimSraj 432]

At long last I’m back on the 5060 trans work. Got the new bearings and seals in and all the gears back together. As I trial fit the case gasket I noticed what I think is a pretty poor cut on the one side. Check the attached photos. I’m thinking of trying to get gasket material at the local NAPA and cut my own. Anyone know what the material is and what thickness it should be. I bought 2 and they both fit about the same. The last picture shows a screwdriver pointing to a line I drew on the case. Gasket only covers about half of the mating surfaces. 

[WHX?? 49,145]

Last gasket i used was like that too. You can try soaking it in a pan of water it will expand abit.

 

I used a little Permatex gasket maker. 

[stevasaurus 22,856]

Those gaskets are fine as long as your surfaces are clean.  If you want to cut your own...Autozone has the Kero-Pak.  I think it is 1/32 thick by 1' X 3'.???  I could get 3 gaskets out of one package.  

[JimSraj 432]

Thanks all. I just didn’t feel comfortable with the fit of the bought ones so I did cut my own with the Kero-pac. The bought gasket is 1/64” thick and the Kero-pac is 1/32” thick. I doubt(hope) it will matter. Anyway, it’s all back together and ready to go back to the tractor. That’s outside work so may not happen for a while. 

[peter lena 8,719]

@JimSraj  mechanicals look good in that . good opportunity to get some , climbing gear lube in that from the start . lucas heavy duty gear lube has that , read back of bottle details . like a light stp , picture that  getting into every movement spot , shifter will work with out effort , don't for get to lube up  related clutch linkage ,  just my own experience , pete

[JimSraj 432]

What is supposed to be used to plug the hole that the detent balls and spring go in through?  Or what do you all use?

[953 nut 55,742]

9 hours ago, JimSraj said:

What is supposed to be used to plug the hole that the detent balls and spring go in through?  Or what do you all use?

I just use a dab of grease, the hole is covered by the mounting plate.