1967 T1267 won’t move

[JimSraj 429]

The T1267 that is at my WV camp has quit moving. It’s a hi-low 3 speed manual trans behind a K301 that I rebuilt last summer. The fellow I have mowing for me said he used the tractor to mow 4-5 times this summer with no issues. Last week he backed out of the shed ok but when shifted into forward gear no movement. 

I suggested checking to make sure it’s in hi or low range and check the drive belt. He said both seem to be as they should be. He told me the shift lever does move into position but tractor does not move when the clutch pedal is raised. 

I’m in PA, tractor is in WV. I’m not gonna be there for another few weeks to look at it myself. Obviously hoping it’s something fairly simple but would like to ask for ideas about what he might look at that I can forward to him. He’s not a mechanic at all. 

Looking for suggestions. 

[8ntruck 6,999]

Bad or missing key in the transmission input pulley?  Broken drive belt idler pulley or spring?

 

Good luck.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

The driven pulley and both wheel hubs are driven by keys between the hubs and shafts. It takes just one of them to shear and no more drive.

A mark across the end of the shaft to one side of the hub is the best way to check. See if a shaft is turning without the hub.

[953 nut 55,223]

9 hours ago, JimSraj said:

I suggested checking to make sure it’s in hi or low range and check the drive belt. He said both seem to be as they should be

Ask him to put it in low range, any gear, presuming it will move under its own power ask him to move the selector into high range. the lever can appear to be in high but actually be between gears. Hope this helps.

[Pullstart 62,851]

  on occasion, I’ve found some transmissions prefer to “double clutch” when shifting from hi or low and shifting gears at the same time.  Run the clutch pedal in and out and back in and try it again.  

[squonk 41,104]

Stuck between Hi and lo. Seen it a bunch

[JimSraj 429]

Thanks guys I’ll have him check the range selector lever again before going on to the pulleys and keys. 

[Handy Don 12,217]

9 hours ago, JimSraj said:

Thanks guys I’ll have him check the range selector lever again before going on to the pulleys and keys. 

Of course, forcing a shifter will bend or break the forks inside. It hard, sometimes, to explain to someone just how much force to use.

[JimSraj 429]

Well I made it to my camp and found the Horse to be lame. She starts right up but will not move. I trailered her home and am now faced with figuring out the problem. At a rest stop on the way back to PA I noticed some gear oil on the right rear wheel and trailer floor under it. It’s never had oil leaking there before. Could it have been from the trailer bouncing behind the truck?  Must be a bad seal there I’m thinking.  I’ve never taken a trans off or opened one up so I’ll be looking for guidance throughout the adventure starting with disassembly from the tractor.  You guys have been very gracious sharing your knowledge in the past and I can’t thank you all enough.  Is there a place I can download and print a service manual for it. Also, where should I be able to find the trans model #?  Thanks in advance. 

[squonk 41,104]

 

[oliver2-44 9,747]

The hi/lo can become difficult to shift or move fully. There is not a seal where it enters the transmission and the shifter shaft can get stiff with rust on it. Soak that area with penetrant to help make sure it is moving freely. If you end up opening it up clean that area of the shifter shaft and hole to remove any rust. I’ve read where some have put an o-rind on top the transmission under the hi/lo shifter extension. 
Wishing you the best with your findings 

[953 nut 55,223]

8 hours ago, JimSraj said:

I noticed some gear oil on the right rear wheel and trailer floor under it. It’s never had oil leaking there before.

Before you remove the transmission you should check both rear axles for play. A bit of in/out play is normal but any up/down or front/back play indicates bad axle bearings. 

The tutorial that @stevasaurus has put together is great, also these two manuals will be helpful.

 

[stevasaurus 22,738]

The second manual that 953Nut posted shows what to do to take the trans out of the horse and how to open up the transmission.  My videos show you how it goes back together.  This can be a very satisfying job if the hubs come off easily and also the back hitch.    Ask any questions you have, and take pictures as you go.  Your questions along with pictures will make it easy for us to walk you through the process.  Check those woodruff keys first.  

[JimSraj 429]

Thanks everyone especially 953 nut and stevasaurus.  The info should be plenty to get me started. 

[JimSraj 429]

Today I took the drive belt cover and belt off and found the pulley to be loose on the shaft.  It slides in and out on the shaft. Also jacked up the rear end and found that there is a fair amount of play in the wheels both top to bottom and size to side. If I turn the left wheel it feels like the gears are not fully meshing. No real play in and out on either side. Still wondering what caused the gear oil leak on the left side  in transit on the trailer. 

[oliver2-44 9,747]

1 hour ago, JimSraj said:

. Still wondering what caused the gear oil leak on the left side  in transit on the trailer. 

 
The top to bottom and side to side play means your axle bearing are worn. Worn bearings cause the seal to bear. The tractor saw a lot of movement on the trailer and that movement at the axles caused it to leak. 
You also mention the gears feeling like their not meshing right. 
It sounds like it’s time to go through that transmission. 
Before you pull it drain the gear lube and fill it with diesel. Then drive it around shifting into all gears. Then drain diesel while warm. This cleans out the transmission some making it a little easier when you pull/disassemble it. 

[JimSraj 429]

@oliver2-44 Thanks for the input.  Your diagnosis confirms my suspicions. Not having any real experience it’s good to have the advice of those of you that do.  I will drain the gear oil but I can’t drive it around with diesel bc it doesn’t move in any range or gear. 

[squonk 41,104]

50 minutes ago, JimSraj said:

@oliver2-44 Thanks for the input.  Your diagnosis confirms my suspicions. Not having any real experience it’s good to have the advice of those of you that do.  I will drain the gear oil but I can’t drive it around with diesel bc it doesn’t move in any range or gear. 

Fix that pulley and it will probably drive. 

[oliver2-44 9,747]

One other comment. The up/down and side/side movement could also mean the axle bearings and the axle shafts themselves are worn. I have a 4 speed transmission that the axles are unbelievable worn. I’m guessing but I suspect it was run a long long time with worn bearings by the PO. 
 

With yours just starting to have some seal leakage I’m going to speculate your axle shafts are OK. 

Edited September 11, 2022 by oliver2-44

[JimSraj 429]

Sure hope the shafts are ok.

Thanks Mike I’m gonna get back at it later today. The pulley is loose, I can pull it and push it on the shaft but it wouldn’t come off. Gotta get a better look at why today. With the wobbles in the wheels though the tranny is gonna have to be opened up. It would be nice to be able to do a diesel rinse like oliver2-44 suggests if i can get it to drive. 

Edited September 11, 2022 by JimSraj

[stevasaurus 22,738]

File the burrs off the end of the shafts to get pulleys and hubs off.    If you get it running, do not drive it in your lawn with the diesel.  If the seals are leaking you will leave a dead trail in your grass.  It is better to jack it off the wheels and run to clean out the trans.

Edited September 11, 2022 by stevasaurus

[JimSraj 429]

My 7 year old grandson got a kick out of using the pressure washer to clean the outside of the housing once we separated the rear yesterday. Turns out the drive pulley came off pretty easily once I found the set screw after the clean up. Brake came off with no problems too. Both keys are in good shape. Shift lever is another story though. Looks like the dog point set screw is broken in two. When I took the lock nut off only about 3/8” of the set screw came out so of course the shifter lever won’t come off. The part of the set screw that’s still in the threads is just at the last thread. Anyone have experience getting one out that’s snapped off like this?  I’m thinking that it’s gonna be too hard to drill and easyout?  Here’s a picture of it. 

[stevasaurus 22,738]

The set screw is hardened.  You need (I think) a carbide drill bit.  A reverse bit might just back it out or an "easy out" will do the trick.  They usually are not rusted in place and come out rather easy once you can get a hold of it.  A search for broken set screws will give you a bunch of threads on the subject.  

   The shifter needs to come out before separating the case halves.

Edited September 20, 2022 by stevasaurus

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,175]

I used an appropriate sized screw extraction kit from the hardware store.  I’ll try to post a pic of it later tonight…

[JimSraj 429]

After trying to drill into the center of the broken set screw with several different bits and only getting in about 1/16” I got a left twist 1/8” bit from a local fastener shop and it backed right out. No easy out needed. Previously had put a couple drops of diesel in the hole. 

Ready to open it up now.