Ponyboy 64 #1 Posted August 14, 2022 Hello everyone! The outside pulley bearing went out on my RM-366 deck (the pulley that connects to the engine pulley). I have a new one and am ready to install but wanted to confirm the process (1st time installing a bearing). Pics included below. There's a bearing on both sides of the pulley, with a spacer on the inside. My original thought was to run the bolt for the pulley through the backside and through the spacer, then press the new bearing in (using a socket sized to the bearing's outer metal ring and my bench vice). My concern is that when that is all complete and I remove the bolt, that spacer inside will slide around inside and no longer be married up to the shaft hole (the spacer doesn't look like it will be 'sandwiched' between the 2 bearings snugly, but will be loose). If that's a valid concern, is there something else I should be doing to hold the spacer in place? Or will I still be able to maneuver the bolt through the spacer even if its off-center (with a little shaking/jiggling)? I just don't want to get it sealed up and then realize I did it wrong. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,296 #2 Posted August 14, 2022 @Ponyboy As I recall the bearings get squeezed by the bolt and spacer for a tight fit. Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ponyboy 64 #3 Posted August 14, 2022 @ri702bill, that makes sense! Also, I'm just realizing I can install the bearing w/ the bolt going through the other way from the pic (the correct way for when I mount it to the deck)...so I don't have to remove the bolt at all after the bearing is in. Just screw the whole assembly onto the deck. Sheesh, that kind of 'out of the box' thinking on my part would have saved me a post. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,174 #4 Posted August 14, 2022 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Ponyboy said: @ri702bill, that makes sense! Also, I'm just realizing I can install the bearing w/ the bolt going through the other way from the pic (the correct way for when I mount it to the deck)...so I don't have to remove the bolt at all after the bearing is in. Just screw the whole assembly onto the deck. Sheesh, that kind of 'out of the box' thinking on my part would have saved me a post. Thanks! My experience echo's @ri702bill's... that the bearings will squeeze the spacer and hold it adequately to recenter it with a drift pin if needed. I'm not sure your idea will work, since both bearings expect to be slightly recessed into the pulley. Get ready for a post from Pete to confirm you popped the seals and regreased those bearings with Lucas Green before putting them in! Edited August 14, 2022 by Handy Don 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,296 #5 Posted August 14, 2022 (edited) 23 hours ago, Handy Don said: My experience echo's @ri702bill's... that the bearings will squeeze the spacer and hold it adequately to recenter it with a drift pin if needed. Yup, this is a classic preloaded 2 ball bearing scenario, similar to what is used on deck spindles. Follow along - the bolt loads the inner of the outer bearing, which applies pressure to the outer race thru the balls. The spacer is pressed by the outer race - the process mirrors itself thru the inner bearing with the inner race being the last piece of the puzzle..... the outer race of the inner bearing is (and has to be afloat to allow for movenent as things heat up and cool off) - proper sizing to assure a light preload and NO shake or wobble. The spacer needs to be a few thousandths longer than the center bore. and the bore to accept the inner bearing MUST be in good shape size and finish wise to allow that miniscule movement - without it, it all binds up ....... Bill Edited August 15, 2022 by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #6 Posted August 14, 2022 @Ponyboy got cha ! @Handy Don was right on the opportunity to repack those bearings , small pocket flat screwdriver , carefully remove the bearing seals , both sides , wipe out original grease , flush with carb cleaner , lucas xtra HD CHASSIS GREASE , green and white tube , 560 deg , anti sling , polyurea rated . repack to same grease amount , reinstall seals install bearings , no bearing noise or failure . walmart has the grease . use this in all my drive bearing set ups, and related bearings . looking at your set up , you know what i,m thinking , pete 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ponyboy 64 #7 Posted August 15, 2022 Well, either I got the wrong size bearing (Part #6593 per the manual, part provided by WH Parts & More), my bench vice (now broken) is not strong enough, or I am clueless (could also be a combination of those things). Even before installing (and you can kinda tell from the earlier photos I posted) there's a metal lip in the inside of the pulley that is only about half as deep as the bearing, which is why I think half of it is sticking out. This isn't correct, is it? I also pulled up an older pic I had of the original...the old bearing was sunk in there quite a ways so that the bolt head was nearly flush with the pulley, installed. What the heck happened? If I need to start over, I have no idea how to now get this bearing out (the old original bearing is still in on the other side). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 749 #8 Posted August 15, 2022 That looks like part of a bearing race, need to knock out from other side with a big brass punch or chisel. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ponyboy 64 #9 Posted August 15, 2022 thank you @gt14rider! Didn't realize there was still some remnant of the old bearing in there. I took this opportunity to remove the bearing on the other side as well and tapped both races out so now I have a clean pulley to start with. I'll also take this 'reboot' opportunity to re-grease the bearings with some Lucas (as well as buy a new bench vise). Thank you all! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #10 Posted August 15, 2022 @Ponyboy looked like a race spacing standoff, glad you are doing the re grease , the wide side shields make it easy , small pocket flat screwdriver ,carefully remove them, wipe out grease , finish flush with carb cleaner , refill to same amount , push seals back in place , two bearings like that almost back to back , with a grease that will easily handle heat will make that a strong, silent point of the drive. you are learning and doing the right thing , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #11 Posted August 15, 2022 @Snoopy11 thanks for that bearing info , will pass it on , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #12 Posted August 15, 2022 @Ponyboy , JUST HAD @Snoopy11 send me the bearing # RM -366 , those are for the double D shafts , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ponyboy 64 #13 Posted August 15, 2022 5 minutes ago, peter lena said: @Ponyboy , JUST HAD @Snoopy11 send me the bearing # RM -366 , those are for the double D shafts , pete @peter lena, not sure I follow what you mean...are you saying I'm using the wrong bearing? I'm going off the parts list in the RM-366 manual...two #6593 bearings for that pulley, unless there's a misprint. The double d shaft bearings are #1508. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #14 Posted August 15, 2022 @Ponyboy , you might have to verify what you have , against what I have , features changed on many attachments , that could be the issue , you obviousely have the right bearing , there were a number of changes to decks , replace bearings in kind , that would be the easiest , sorry for the confusion , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
