New LED Power Supply & Lights Installed!

[subvet720 179]

I finally put my circuitry to give me clean 12VDC in a box and mounted it in the mighty Conrad Wieser Wheel Horse. Then we got the LED tail lights installed/hooked up with a fancy new headlight switch that my helper picked out. My helper even took me on a test drive. He told me to sit in the wagon so that I could admire the new tail lights as we drive around the neighborhood

 

Next step... Add LED light strips under the frame that are controlled by my phone and music.

[peter lena 8,625]

@subvet720  like my LED LIGHTS , my horses are very visible near the road trimming / cutting , regularly use ,  https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=spiral+cable+wire+wrap&qpvt=spiral+cable+wire+wrap&form=IGRE&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle  this wrap to secure / protect my wiring set ups , also get the stick on cable / ty rap mount  points , really enhances clean wiring set ups , stick on clean paint easily . you might even find the rap at local H/W  store . eliminate wire chafing , shorting .pete

[subvet720 179]

I use lots of industrial grade shrink tubing and tie wraps. Next weekend the LED installation begins.

[peter lena 8,625]

@subvet720 , suggestion , enhance your engine grounding ,  add a cable from battery ground bolt on cowl , to corner of engine to frame , clutch pedal side , use serrated washers and dielectric grease , for solid connection . from there I  connect to electrical rectifier / ignition , and from there to headlights, note solid amperage gauge action , verify ground to any needed spot , did that on my 3 horses , solid electrical hook up  ,  glub glub , pete  

[Rick3478 428]

44 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@subvet720 , suggestion , enhance your engine grounding ,  add a cable from battery ground bolt on cowl , to corner of engine to frame , clutch pedal side , use serrated washers and dielectric grease , for solid connection . from there I  connect to electrical rectifier / ignition , and from there to headlights, note solid amperage gauge action , verify ground to any needed spot , did that on my 3 horses , solid electrical hook up  ,  glub glub , pete  

Serrated washers between lug and part will reduce contact area.  Instead, clean and remove paint, oxide, and corrosion.  If someone has previously used serrated washers, file, grind, or sand off the high spots.  Create as intimate a contact surface as possible.  You can use star or split lock washers under bolt heads and nuts to prevent movement.  Do not use dielectric grease for this, the name literally means "doesn't conduct".  Use anti-oxidant compound.

[Handy Don 12,217]

3 hours ago, Rick3478 said:

Serrated washers between lug and part will reduce contact area

This is true.

We must also keep in mind how much current a given connection must carry to be successful. Those terminating 16 or 14ga wiring are simply not carrying much. A serrated washer that guarantees an adequate connection, protected with dielectric or other anti-corrosion and water-repelling grease will normally be more than adequate (exceptions will exist, of course).

Connections terminating 6ga wiring (or equivalent) are a different matter. These must have, as noted, "as intimate a contact surface as possible" and preferrably anti-corrosion protection via dielectric or anti-oxidant, water-repellent grease besides.

This week I resurrected a Kohler CV12.5 in one of those green machines from '87. Tractor/mower was on its deathbed from what turned out to be a near terminal (pun intended) case of badly rusted/corroded electrical connections throughout. Cleaned, tightened, and protected with dielectric all of the electrical connections and brought it back so it will live on.

[subvet720 179]

The reason I went to the bridge rectifier and buck converter was so that I can use 12V or 5V LEDs (2 buck converters running at the two voltages, all located in the same power box) with digital controllers. The 12VAC coming off the magneto is between 10V and 24V and would not work with the controllers. I did take the grounding advice and ran a 12AWG ground line directly from the battery that I use for all the LEDs. Because of the low current draw of the LEDs, I used 16AWG nickel/Teflon wire that I have left over from some high temp projects I did twenty years ago. It all works like a charm and I now have lots of power for expansion.

[peter lena 8,625]

@Rick3478 just to clarify  serrated washer set up , I  use those washers  under the mount bolt head , have also detailed cleaned connection spot  , usually detail build everything , if I  left out a few steps , was thinking , you had picked up my idea set up . been doing this a long time , I  also frequently use super lube , synthetic oil / dielectric , in many areas . road test everything I  do , many hours  without , past problem . usually get a push back , because , I  don't refer to a book , just upgrade and improve a  poor set up . when I  got my 82 c85 new, I  sent a letter to w/h  asking them if they could spare a washer to a bolt set up  ?  return letter said , production building , did not have the detailing of a singular build , in mind /  slower time / cost , obviousely that was opposite , a singular build up detail . made a lot of changes / improvements to my horses . no rust / rot , consistent starts / running . just the way I  address a problem ,  pete