Hello all, new here help with part please?

[peter lena 8,589]

@656_tractor  just curious ,with gear wear like that , what kind of lubrication will you be using on the refit ? pete

[656_tractor 14]

Thanks Don!  

I am thinking I may want to get gears for the horizontal shaft if anyone has them.  I am not sure how much play is allowed and dont want to screw up my new parts :/

 

"..One last note, the small bolts you thought we're missing lockwashers are not supposed to have them. When reassembling, I recommend using new Nylock nuts--that was the factory setup."  Okay  TY!

 

Is there any special bushing that the horizontal rod goes thru that I am missing? 

 

On the lube or grease question.. man I dont know.  I will have to look that up somehow

[Handy Don 12,174]

The cross shaft through that tube perplexed me at first, too! 

The shaft isn't supposed to bear on the tube at all! It is fully held by the two bearing blocks next to the gears. The tube is just a "pass through" for the shaft and a pivot for the frame.  The the design of the frame should keep the shaft from touching the tube wall. The tube can accumulate crud and on one of my parts decks that had led to serious rusting of the tube and shaft. Going forward I'll be using an air compressor or hose to be sure it's clear after mowing.

 

From the picture, the one bevel gear I can see, unless it's damaged out of camera range, looks in very good shape. A-to-Z tractor is a source for used ones, but it'll be rare to find one in "mint" condition (if you do find a source for NOS, please let us all know)!

 

If you do decide to remove the cross shaft, mark the gears "left" and "right" and when you put it back together switch the gears so they'll engage on their previously un-used side of the teeth. I used a standard 3-arm puller, penetrant, and some heat to remove the bevel gears from the shaft (I always drill a "dimple" into the end of the shaft to keep the puller drive screw centered). However, unless you really have a need to get it apart to replace bearings or other parts, consider just leaving it assembled.

[Handy Don 12,174]

17 hours ago, peter lena said:

@656_tractor  just curious ,with gear wear like that , what kind of lubrication will you be using on the refit ? pete

Lucas green throughout.

Bevel gears and thrust bearings by direct application. Spindle needle bearings via the spindle zerks. Cross shaft and jack shaft sealed bearings via cleaning and repacking.

The shields on the sealed bearings are all metal with a plastic sealer but after practicing on a couple of worn out ones, I've gotten good at gently removing them without damage and then pressing them back in after degrease, rinse, and re-pack.

The zerks are easy to access and the sealed bearings seem to hold up well. I plan to open the gear covers annually to re-apply grease to the bevel/spur combo.

[peter lena 8,589]

@656_tractor  , looks like a perfect spot for a 2 bolt flange bearing , https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=flange+bearings+amazon , or a local bearing store ?  lucas xtra h/d chassis grease, green and white tube , made for brutal lubrications . when you firm up a mechanical function , with fit and lube , it typically moves without effort . BTW ,just because there was never a flange bearing there , does not mean that you cannot put one there . @Handy Don  has you on the right track . only a suggestion , pete

[Handy Don 12,174]

1 minute ago, peter lena said:

looks like a perfect spot for a 2 bolt flange bearing

Those are two bolt flange bearings -- they are unique to these decks, though! 

On the later models, the mounting flange incorporates cast-in locator bumps that interlock with depressions in the spindle bearing plate to assure perfect alignment of the bevel and spur gears.

[peter lena 8,589]

@Handy Don  would put a 2 bolt flange bearing on the horizontal bronze  bushing point , firm up / support that entire gear engagement set up , thinking bombproof , make the issue go away , lucas, pete

[Handy Don 12,174]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Handy Don  would put a 2 bolt flange bearing on the horizontal bronze  bushing point , firm up / support that entire gear engagement set up , thinking bombproof , make the issue go away , lucas, pete

Pete, there are no bushings on this deck.

The entire drive is bearing-supported. 

The only non-bearing places with any movement are:

- the shoulder bolts holding the gage wheels (standard WH stuff--candidates for replacement with larger and/or bearing wheels of course)

- the shoulder bolts at the height adjuster-to-deck shell pivots (also standard WH stuff for this era--tight constraints due to spinning blade clearance)

- the cross-tube that links the two pieces of the lift frame and accommodates the cross shaft (a very clever solution to minimize the deck height)

 

@ri702bill has looked carefully at the cross tube pivots and we've discussed it but, to my knowledge, neither of us has cracked it yet. He's posted some of his thinking in other threads. There are a LOT of constraints around fit and function there! IMHO, it is simpler to replace that tube when needed (it has several C-Clip grooves) than to try to re-engineer a solution.

 

The gear-drive decks, while cleverly designed and well engineered, had (in our 20-20 hindsight) some shortcomings in the "robustness" category. If they'd been easily remediated, WH probably would not have switched to the belt-driven spindles (and non-interference blade paths) when they did (1968-ish?).

[peter lena 8,589]

@Handy Don  so referring to the picture showing the gear set up , and the wallowed out shaft to frame fit , thats how its saposed to be ?  looking at  obvious lubrication gear wear , and probable play on the set up , thats a normal  finished work area ?  personally  would make some changes to make that go away ,  good luck with it , pete 

[Handy Don 12,174]

33 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Handy Don  so referring to the picture showing the gear set up , and the wallowed out shaft to frame fit , thats how its saposed to be ?  looking at  obvious lubrication gear wear , and probable play on the set up , thats a normal  finished work area ?  personally  would make some changes to make that go away ,  good luck with it , pete 

Pete, see Post #28. That picture shows the cross-shaft entering (or exiting?) the frame pivot tube as it connects the two spindles. The shaft does not touch the tube! The shaft is borne on two flange bearings (the red arrow points to one covered in grease) right next to the bevel gears. The sheet metal immediately to the right of the flange is part of the enclosure that keeps the bevel-spur gear protected from outside debris--the rest of the enclosure was removed for the photo.

The tube itself forms the pivot/support for the two parts of the lift frame--think hollow, fat axle--and that is the tricky bit due to function, spacing, and tight tolerances.

[peter lena 8,589]

@Handy Don  thanks for  the feed back , few years back got one of those decks  with a package deal , it was a mess , cracked twisted / rotted , looking over the set up , first thought was , that was a poor  design , also looked at it as too far gone , gave it away , with the tractor sale .  no matter what I  have , if its a regular chronic problem issue , I  will make that problem go away , think its neat to  make a change and enjoy smooth easy reliable function , pete