csvt99 173 #1 Posted August 7, 2022 I'm swapping out the 8hp K181 for one of Squonks rebuilt motors on my 877. I have the original motor ready to pull, I just need to remove the pulleys from the crank shaft. I removed the set screw on the outer pulley that aligns with the notch in the shaft. 90 degrees from that is another hex screw with what seems to be a Torx inside of it. Both of those were basically stripped and I couldn't move them. Any suggestions on how to remove? My dad was supposed to help but he got caught up in retirement and taking many vacations and now has COVID (mild fortunately) so I'm just going at it myself 🙂 Thanks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #2 Posted August 7, 2022 You could try an easy out, or drill the set screw out and retap the hole with the next size bigger…. If you get the set screws out and the pulley doesn’t budge, remember it took years to get stuck there, don’t expect it to slide right off. Some contractor’s shims or tree feller’s wedges opposite each other might help. Just keep tapping more wedges behind it against the block and give it an occasional tap with a dead blow on the end of the crankshaft. NOT TOO HARD of course! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #3 Posted August 7, 2022 Ok, thanks! I will give it a try. I had to get out the hammer to break the carb off, but it didn't take a whole lot of encouragement. I work with an arborist that has a 5 gallon bucket of shims in his office, I might visit him Monday morning! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #4 Posted August 7, 2022 Might also try drilling the set screw out with a left handed bit. There is the possibility that the bit will bite into the set screw and back it out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #5 Posted August 7, 2022 I’ve got these two ball joint pickle forks too. They tend to work wonders. They can usually fit over the crank snout and they become parallel too when stacked. I’ve even paired them with an open end wrench or two once the pulley moves away from the block far enough. Also, it doesn’t apply in your situation, but a strip of Emory paper to polish up the remaining crank snout helps to get it moving. And if I didn’t mention, penetrating oil! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #6 Posted August 7, 2022 3 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: Might also try drilling the set screw out with a left handed bit. There is the possibility that the bit will bite into the set screw and back it out. I would have said that too, but my right hand is much more steady with a drill 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #7 Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) The best way to get that pulley off is a bearing separator locked into the inner pulley groove and a gear puller attached to the separator. You say you got the screw at the key backed out? A little heat and those tools and the pulley will slide right off. You can rent them at AutoZone or they are cheap at Harbor Freight. I have removed bigger pulleys in tight areas when the screws don't budge this way Edited August 7, 2022 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #8 Posted August 7, 2022 24 minutes ago, squonk said: The best way to get that pulley off is a bearing separator locked into the inner pulley groove and a gear puller attached to the separator. You say you got the screw at the key backed out? A little heat and those tools and the pulley will slide right off. You can rent them at AutoZone or they are cheap at Harbor Freight. I have removed bigger pulleys in tight areas when the screws don't budge this way Thanks squonk! The screw I removed is the one that lines up with the notch in the shaft. It looks like there is still a small block of metal sitting in that notch. Is that what you call the key? The screw I did not remove is 90 degrees counter clock wise from that one or at 3 o clock. I think I have a gear puller around. And I will have to get it back onto the new motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #9 Posted August 7, 2022 Just now, csvt99 said: Thanks squonk! The screw I removed is the one that lines up with the notch in the shaft. It looks like there is still a small block of metal sitting in that notch. Is that what you call the key? The screw I did not remove is 90 degrees counter clock wise from that one or at 3 o clock. I think I have a gear puller around. And I will have to get it back onto the new motor. Do not use the gear puller without the bearing separator. Yes the block is the key. The pulley will drag that other screw along the crank when it's pulled. I think I may have an extra pulley kicking around some where if you need one. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #10 Posted August 7, 2022 11 minutes ago, squonk said: The pulley will drag that other screw along the crank when it's pulled. And the screw that is stuck won't damage the crank? The picture with the green arrow is the one I got out. The red arrow is the one that is stuck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #11 Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) 7 minutes ago, csvt99 said: And the screw that is stuck won't damage the crank? The picture with the green arrow is the one I got out. The red arrow is the one that is stuck. A file and emery cloth will fix up the crank shaft. You can try some heat on that stuck screw if you allen wrench still grips it. Edited August 7, 2022 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #12 Posted August 7, 2022 Ok, I hit it with the penetrating oil and will try the heat as well. If that doesn't go as planned I will go the other route with the bearing separator and gear puller. I should be able to find what I need between my dad's shop, my farmer friend and the AutoZone down the street. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #13 Posted August 7, 2022 Try sharpening the end of a hex key wrench that is one size larger, perhaps a metric one will work or grind down one till it is just a bit oversize. Hammer the sharpened hex key wrench in and it should broach a new hex, clean out debris and hammer it in deeper. Using a piece of wrench works best since you won't have the bend. Try turning out the screw but don't strip it, if needed try putting that piece of a wrench in an impact driver and try that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #14 Posted August 7, 2022 12 hours ago, Pullstart said: I would have said that too, but my right hand is much more steady with a drill Ya know, we really need an emojie that represents a rim shot here.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eyebolt 1 #15 Posted August 7, 2022 Good luck . Like they said ,oil ,drill and heat. Use the backing plate . clam shell on the puller . Talk you time . Good luck . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
csvt99 173 #16 Posted August 9, 2022 Thanks to you all, I got er done! I let the oil soak, got the heat gun out, and used another hex wrench and was able to break it free pretty easily. Then I found this cheap gear puller I bought for some unknown reason a while ago, and it took the pulley right off. Is the key in there by friction only? Can I just pop it out with a punch? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #17 Posted August 9, 2022 Key should come out with a punch. Soak it and put a little heat on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites