squonk 41,150 #26 Posted August 7, 2022 Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere or something drawing the voltage down. Try unhooking the wire at the coil. That's the only thing powered when the key is in run. If it doesn't help, I would look at the switch itself. Contacts inside may PE partially shorted to ground. That would also explain why it tried to start a couple times. You have 12 volts where you're testing with the key off correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #27 Posted August 7, 2022 What is the battery voltage right at the battery with the key off and then on and then in the crank position? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #28 Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) 20 minutes ago, squonk said: What is the battery voltage right at the battery with the key off and then on and then in the crank position? off: 12.56 Run: 2 start: >1v 22 minutes ago, squonk said: Try unhooking the wire at the coil Ok, I'll try this Edited August 7, 2022 by rnphila Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #29 Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) How old is this battery? Edited August 7, 2022 by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #30 Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) 10 minutes ago, squonk said: How old is this battery? New, replaced it last year Ok, with coil disconnected Off: 12.56 Run: 9.5 Start: <1V Edited August 7, 2022 by rnphila Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #31 Posted August 7, 2022 I would get that battery load tested. 9.5 is quite a drop with just turning the key on and the ignition unhooked. Stranger things have happened. I had a year old battery in a tractor with a battery tender connected. The light on the tender was doing all kinds of strange things. I thought my tender was shot. I bought a new one and it did the same thing. I finally tested the battery and it was bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #32 Posted August 7, 2022 23 minutes ago, squonk said: I would get that battery load tested. 9.5 is quite a drop with just turning the key on and the ignition unhooked. Stranger things have happened. I had a year old battery in a tractor with a battery tender connected. The light on the tender was doing all kinds of strange things. I thought my tender was shot. I bought a new one and it did the same thing. I finally tested the battery and it was bad. Interesting, I’ll check it at the shop where I got it. This gave me an idea, charging it is right now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #33 Posted August 7, 2022 If the battery has at any time been heavily discharged, i.e. down to 5 or fewer volts, then it may no longer be able to take a full charge--this is regardless of age. It could well show 12v to a meter but as soon as it has a load put on it, even a small one, the voltage falls off a cliff. Have you tried using jumper cables to a car or truck direct to the battery and then try to start the tractor? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #34 Posted August 7, 2022 3 minutes ago, Handy Don said: If the battery has at any time been heavily discharged, i.e. down to 5 or fewer volts, then it may no longer be able to take a full charge--this is regardless of age. It could well show 12v to a meter but as soon as it has a load put on it, even a small one, the voltage falls off a cliff. Have you tried using jumper cables to a car or truck direct to the battery and then try to start the tractor? Yeah that’s what happened with the old battery, I forgot to turn off the key, and the battery wouldn’t charge. The new one have not had any issues, it always starts with 1-3 attempts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #35 Posted August 7, 2022 38 minutes ago, rnphila said: Yeah that’s what happened with the old battery, I forgot to turn off the key, and the battery wouldn’t charge. The new one have not had any issues, it always starts with 1-3 attempts. Leaving the key on may have compromised the coil and could be why you went from 2 volts with it connected to over 9 volts with it unhooked. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #36 Posted August 8, 2022 49 minutes ago, squonk said: Leaving the key on may have compromised the coil and could be why you went from 2 volts with it connected to over 9 volts with it unhooked. It was a year ago, then I replaced battery and it worked fine. Maybe coil reached it EOL? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #37 Posted August 8, 2022 Test that battery first. Leaving a key on can overheat a coil causing the insulation to flake off or degrade. Yes the coil may have taken a year to go kaput. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046 #38 Posted August 8, 2022 Suspect you have a bad cable. When you have 2 volts at the solenoid move your test lead to the terminal on the cable, then to the cable where it enters the terminal, then to the cable at the other end of the cable, then the terminal at the other end. Somewhere along that cable or it's connections you will find 12 volts. This is usually referred to looking for voltage drop. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BESTDOGEVER 218 #39 Posted August 8, 2022 Just a quick thought a 12 volt battery should read about 13.8 volts when fully charged and being less than that will affect if the starter and solenoid work properly. You can check the solenoid by jumping a wire from the battery to the small terminal (make sure not in gear ect.ect. be safe) . If that works you are looking at switch ,ground ,broken wire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rnphila 5 #40 Posted August 18, 2022 On 8/8/2022 at 11:47 AM, gwest_ca said: Suspect you have a bad cable. When you have 2 volts at the solenoid move your test lead to the terminal on the cable, then to the cable where it enters the terminal, then to the cable at the other end of the cable, then the terminal at the other end. Somewhere along that cable or it's connections you will find 12 volts. This is usually referred to looking for voltage drop. Thanks everybody helping with this problem. Amazing community and I had fun tinkering with the tractor. It was, indeed, a bad cable from the battery. I didn't have time to continue troubleshooting, after I spend half of weekend. So local mechanic diagnosed it in 3 minutes. With a simple screw-driver style tester (see how light dimming?) 20$ for new battery cables and it is up and running again. Woo hoo 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
