1975 D160 ran out of gas, now won't turn over

[Forrest Carver 52]

Hello all, just got my first tractor. 1975 D160, well-maintained with all manuals and attachments.

 

I started it up and drove it around a few times over the past few days, but this morning I began to use it in earnest. After mowing for approximately 10 minutes, I ran it out of gas (whoops!) I refilled the gas tank but now it will not turn over. Nothing happens if I turn the key, not even a click. I'm sure there's a simple solution, like a loose connection, but I'm not particularly mechanically minded and my mind tends to go blank when wires are involved. I have not yet read the manuals or done any investigation yet, in hopes that there's an answer obvious to anyone "in the know."

I'm enchanted with this tractor and thrilled to be the new owner, just need to overcome this first setback. Thanks for your patience.

 

Oh, while I'm at it, there are two other issues I may as well mention. 1.) The throttle does not stay at full power, it tends to relax to half power. 2.) No brake. Unlike the prior issues, I feel comfortable at least attempting these repairs but if you have any tips or pitfalls please let me know.

[ineedanother 1,369]

Hello Forrest 

 

One step at a time. You'll tap into a wealth of information here. Your fuel issue would have nothing to do with it not turning over so let's address that first. If the tractor has been in the elements, your key switch is probably corroded a bit internally. Check your battery for charge and spray the key switch with dw40 or something comparable in the key slot and on the connections behind the dash. Work the key back and forth a few times and you'll likely get the starter to engage if your battery has power. Don't be discouraged if that doesn't work. Do you have a multi-meter?

[roadapples 6,983]

Make sure all ground wires are tight and clean. A little dielectric grease goes a long way too....and 

[8ntruck 7,001]

 to the forum.  There is a safety switch on the PTO lever.  If the lever is in the engaged position, the engine won't crank.

 

This lesson sank in for me when I was mowing down at the lake house.  I shut the engine down for some reason, then it would not start when I went back to it.  Pushed the tractor up hill about 100 yards to my shop and started troubleshooting.  Maybe 15 or 20 minutes later, I noticed that the PTO lever was still engaged.  Shut the PTO off, and the problem magically disappeared.

 

I gained some knowledge, by telling this story, I'm passing wisdom to you all. 

[Ed Kennell 38,170]

10 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

PTO lever was still engaged

Happens every time when you run out of gas.

[roadapples 6,983]

Been there, done that...

[SylvanLakeWH 25,557]

 x3…

 

I’ve “heard” that happens too… 

 

And 

[ineedanother 1,369]

Yep. I was thinking start simple but missed it. You know how we scoff at the troubleshooting guides that start with "is the electrical cord securely plugged into the outlet?" 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

 

[953 nut 55,224]

The PTO deal has been covered so I won't beat a dead horse. 

I don't own a "D" but the information in this service manual should be helpful. On your throttle lever I would guess that there is a screw that acts as a pivot point for the lever, tightening it a bit could do the trick.

 

[Forrest Carver 52]

Thanks for the warm welcome, all! I put a starter pack on the battery and no change so I don't believe battery charge is the culprit.

 

Where might I locate this PTO safety switch? I engage the mower by flipping a switch on the dash reading "electric clutch" so not sure where the PTO lever might be.

[953 nut 55,224]

Item # 8 in this photo is the PTO lever, if is not all the way back toward the operator the engine will not turn over from the ignition switch. The PTO switch is under the dash but we were thinking you may have forgotten to pull back on the PTO lever when the tractor ran out of gas. We have all done it at one time or another.

[Forrest Carver 52]

Got it, thanks. It appears my machine has a switch in lieu of the lever. Is there another way to manually disengage the PTO (if it's still engaged)?

 

I can borrow a multimeter today. All the wires look fine...but...I have no idea what I'm looking at, so 

 

UPDATE: I located a blown fuse leading to the ammeter, could this be the culprit?

Edited August 6, 2022 by Forrest Carver

[pacer 3,169]

You GOT TO determine whether or not you have 12V in the several places its critical .... soooo, get that multi meter! Start at the battery, does it have around 13+/- volts. Next, with the key on ck volt at the + terminal on the coil and at the solenoid. If you dont have the 12v there then youre getting into the wiring problems. As noted above these ignition switches are prone to go, usually from corrosion, along with the "safety" switches.

 

Get that meter - go to Harbor Freight and pick one up, theyre cheap, $20 range,  and youll need one more often than you'd think. When youve determined that you have 12v at these points and still got the problem. get back with us and we'll get into more detail. Its prolly gonna end up being a bad conx somewhere......

 

Let me pause here and point out a huge  - 'pain in the butt' on the D's, the solenoid is "HIDDEN" behind a plate on the right side of the tractor bolted to the frame and personally I never figured a way to ck it with out pulling that plate off!! Below and slightly forward of the motion lever is this panel. (Personally, Once I remove it I leave it off)

[squonk 41,104]

4 hours ago, Forrest Carver said:

Got it, thanks. It appears my machine has a switch in lieu of the lever. Is there another way to manually disengage the PTO (if it's still engaged)?

 

I can borrow a multimeter today. All the wires look fine...but...I have no idea what I'm looking at, so 

 

UPDATE: I located a blown fuse leading to the ammeter, could this be the culprit?

Yes it could. But you may need to find out why the fuse blew.

[pacer 3,169]

46 minutes ago, squonk said:

blown fuse leading to the ammeter,

 

Yep thats almost certain to be the cause, but... as @squonk pointed out, you'll have to find out why  -  shorted wire somewhere.....

 

The dang ammeters on our horses have to be one of the most troublesome parts on them!!  If you can work out a way, replace the ammeter with a voltmeter.

[8ntruck 7,001]

as a test, disconnect both wires from the ammeter, then hook them together.  This will take the ammeter out of the circuit.   If this does not help, then the problem is somewhere else. 

[Forrest Carver 52]

Thanks, you guys nailed it. I replaced the ammeter fuse and the machine started up again. Ran for a few minutes and then blew the same fuse. Are you saying the ammeter may be the problem, and I can bypass it?

[squonk 41,104]

Yes. hook the 2 wires on the meter and insulate the ends

[Forrest Carver 52]

Thanks. I bypassed the ammeter, but blew another fuse immediately. Turns out some wires in the front were routed badly and were draped over the exhaust, which melted the connection and grounded them out. I taped them up and rerouted them, machine is running fine now with the exception of the throttle and brake issues

[Forrest Carver 52]

Are there any newer backwards-compatible or custom attachments this model is powerful enough for? I'd be interested in a loader, shredder, chipper, sand/salt spreader, backhoe, sawmill, log splitter (not the screw kind), ditch witch, forks, and possibly others

Edited August 11, 2022 by Forrest Carver