peter lena 8,634 #26 Posted August 4, 2022 @Pullstart yes you want a polyurea rated grease , it recovers itself , usually anti sling and hi temp , the corn head grease or the lucas xtra hd chassis grease will last , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #27 Posted August 4, 2022 And congrats to your Squarehood As allready mentioned, give her a little care and you have a Rock Solid (Partner) Machine for whatever purposes you need. I love my 656 and it is an extremely reliable Machine and in regular Service. i also would suggest keep the Steering system regular greased, and blow it off after each mowing because When grass gets wet it is like Acid. Also clean out the undersite of the Deck regulary with released Deck belt and engine is off. I remove also the belt from the Enginepulley for safety purposes. The regular grease Service is highly recommended especially if you plan Snowplow in Winter, what works great for me up to 30cm Dry snow or 15cm Wet Snow. For Winterservice i use 5W30 Oil for an quicker lubrication. I use on mine 2 Fencepost caps 36mm pushed over the upper Side on the Frontaxle, so the grease can not be washed out. oh, never try to switch a gear while moving, that is one very important rules for this Gearboxes because they be not syncronized. first stop, than shift. Have a lot of Fun with your Wheel Horse ! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dieseltu 26 #28 Posted August 8, 2022 (edited) Good morning guys, I read everyone's replies, but I couldn't check anything because the mowers at another place , but I just went and mowed again and took a light and found out a couple things,. i found the tag and it says T 865. Serial No. 209704. That's a good thing , Apparently its kinda bullet proof. I'm guessing around 1967. Next , I found the other gear. the low low gear. And it works. Awesome. It started right up but I needed a little choke and the choke has no cable on it but its ok. I just flipped it when it started . And i got the tire sizes because one rear tire is almost out of air and its been a week. They're all dry rotted. the rears are 23x8.50 x12. The fronts are 16x5.50x8. I got a ditch to ride and its not slipping or tipping so I'm guessing and lawn tires are better than what i got. The next thing. There's no fuel cutoff. just a hose and filter. And i was going to try and find a tie rode end but its not that easy. On the left side there is a removable tie rod. On the right side there's a steering rod and the end don't come off and its got a lot of slop about an 1/8 inch back and forth. The next thing is I checked the axle attachment to the wheels , if its bushings or king pins and theres no slop but the other slop is in the wheels to axles themselves . I can rock the wheels all around. I found a wire rubbed through and grounded out going inside an engine cover but i pulled it out a little and its not grounded now. I was hoping the lights work but they do not. The engine runs awesome, the kill switch works. i found the deck grease fittings , its greased up. One of the double deck belt has a wheel horse number. And I cut half the grass without putting the deck down. oops. I found the gear box and oil change plugs. Saying that. I know some of you guys are into restoration. And I have access to a aircraft wheel and brake shop that paints polyurethane exclusively. So painting things nice is on the table. Since I need tires , I could pull all the wheels and get them blasted and painted this winter. with the official red wheel horse color whatever that is. If anyone knows the color. There's a place near me with one of those paint scanners but sometimes its inaccurate. from sun fade and people painting over it. I restored a bunch of Optimus 111 stoves before and they gave me the wrong case color. I cant clean it right now there's no water and the powers off at that place but i got a compressor there and blow it off if i can get the power back on soon. Again, its only my second time on a tractor, but today I cut in high gear a lot and it used to take three hours cutting with a 22 inch honda driven push mower , and I drove there 35 minutes one way, and back and the whole lawn was done in two hours and i was looking around. I almost want to move back in now that i can cut the grasss. easy. Thanks . Edited August 8, 2022 by Dieseltu 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 8,620 #29 Posted August 9, 2022 recheck that model number did you mean 855 or 856 ? The first number represents the horse power.. 8 being 8hp... the second number represents it being 3 forward gears, and reverse that number would be the 5. The last number represents the year.. 5 = 1965.... 6 = 1966... 7=1967... etc. The engine, lights and gas tank are not original. Looks like its been painted. If it runs and drives fine I would just buff out what paint is on and put it to work. Im guessing yours is an 856. I just fixed one up. Mine had original engine. Sometime in its life it was painted over. I removed what paint would come off and added the flames and pinstriping. I also painted the engine after servicing it. They dont all have to be shiney but if thats what you like go for it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,759 #30 Posted August 9, 2022 (edited) When you put new tires on it I suggest you use 23x9.5x12. The 9.5 makes them a little wider on the same rim you have. Also most of the foreign made tires such as the Deestones or Highrun are smaller in size. Their good tires just slightly smaller than the Carslile or Firestone tires. Maybe Turf tires on the rear and tri ribs on the front Edited August 9, 2022 by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #31 Posted August 10, 2022 The front wheels would normally have two ball bearings each--one on each side of the hubs. They are a very common size (flanged bearing ID ¾" x OD 1⅜") and unless you anticipate working it very hard, they need not be super high quality. I got a recent set of 10 (for two tractors) on the jungle site for ~$15 and before installing them, I took a few minutes to remove their shields, degrease them, and fill them with Lucas red n' tacky grease before reinstalling all their shields. This way I will not be lubing them via the grease zerk in the wheel hub. In your case, you'll want to look at each axle shaft and if it hasn't been worn away, new bearings is probably all you'll need. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites