The Carpenters brace.

[formariz 11,987]

The carpenters brace is a tool most of us have seen or handled at one time or another but quickly put it aside as an obsolete tool from the past. From the past yes , obsolete no, quite the contrary. They are literally found all over. Flea markets, basements , scrap metal bins, rusty tool boxes, they pop up at anytime. They are inexpensive and with the exception of a few rare types can be bought for a few dollars. As far as woodworking goes, the brace coupled with its soul mate, the auger bit, has no peer in efficiency, reliability and quality in hole drilling. No power cords, or batteries needed. They can be used anywhere at any time under any circumstances. 

 

 Carpenters braces come in many different types and sizes. Size is usually designated by “sweep”. 

 A brace with a 10” sweep will measure 5” from its center line to its outer  center handle therefore having a rotation of 10” in diameter or the so called sweep. Ten inches is probably the most common but they come from six to sixteen inches. The larger the sweep the more torque one obtains in boring large holes. The smaller sweeps will be more accurate due to their short turning radius but require more effort. They excel  in driving screws and drilling smaller holes. The smaller or faster sweeps are usually quite a bit more expensive since they are not common. So are the largest sweeps. 

6”,8”,10”&12” sweep braces

 

 

 They are tools simple in design and principle. Most are of the ratchet type but there are a few that do not have that feature. Ratchet feature is very useful specially when boring a large diameter hole since not only it is hard to make a full rotation, doing so with the effort needed will knock brace off plumb making an oblong hole and possibly stripping the wood at the auger’s screw tip. Ratchet also makes them very handy in their screw driving ability

Ratchet mechanisms have forward , reverse, locked or free turning. 
 

 Common improved ratchet mechanism on left 

and 140 year old version on right . Old version totally superior to improved version. Unlike that one it also has a free turning feature.

 

 

 There are numerous variations of it specialized for certain applications or functions making them even more versatile. However regardless of brand or age they all function the same way . Very first ones were made out of wood, and did not have a chuck. The chuck and the ratchet mechanism are actually the only parts of them that changed due to improvements over the years. Some of those so called improvements are actually much inferior to earlier designs. Like everything else just easier and less expensive to manufacture.

Chucks are usually very simple. A set of two jaws inside a turning cylinder. Jaws are held together by a spring in a  V configuration. As cylinder is turned clockwise jaws are tightened. The important part is the interior of the jaws. They are grooved and tapered to specifically hold the unique end of an auger bit. With the exception of some older designs they are not very good at securely holding a plain round or hexagonal shaft .

 There are however modern braces that have three and even four jaw chucks designed to securely hold bits with round or hexagonal shafts and with very small diameters. Unfortunately for them since they are modern tools they will not make their way in here. 

 

 Common chuck on left and again 140 year version on right totally superior. Unlike new versions old version will securely also accept round and hexagonal shaft bits. All augers regardless of size fit well in it. Not so in all new versions.

 Adapter I made to use round or hexagonal bits in brace. Made from a regular drill chuck and a cut off from an auger.

 

 Takes a little bit of practice to place augers correctly in the chuck. That is specially so with the smaller diameter bits. They have a tendency to wobble if not in the correct spot. When it comes to fitting correctly inside the two jaws the relationship of the auger’s tapered end to its shaft is critical, and not all augers are correctly proportioned. Also not all jaws are adaptable to all augers. Ideally jaws should tightly grab not only tapered end but also with its upper part tightly grab round shaft equally. This is a challenge with the smaller augers. One has to move it up and down within jaws to find the right or the best spot. With the larger ones this is not a problem. This is one instance where older chucks of different designs were better than newer “ improved “ ones. 

inside of jaws tailored to receive tapered shaft

tapered shaft fits on interior of jaws preventing it from turning within chuck while being used. 

 

when tightened upper jaws should also grab round shaft securely keeping auger from wobbling. On many smaller augers one has to find sweet spot by moving bit up and down within chuck . 

 

 

 

 If used on a bench the best way to use a brace is to place one’s left hand on top pad( handle) then rest one’s forehead on the back of that hand, turning then brace with right hand. A few very important things happen when used this way. With a little practice, placing of forehead on top of hand on pad pretty much automatically sets brace in a perfect vertical position due to your stance and how your head is centered on your body and such keeps itself vertical. If off slightly as you turn the brace with your right hand making a full rotation you will notice immediately that you are off and how by the relationship of rotation against the horizontal surface of bench. This method also keeps brace in that position as you crank it. Would you just use your left hand on the top pad, as you crank brace it will wobble out of plumb by it. Your left arm will not hold it steady, your head will. Since auger has a feeding screw no pressure is required for bit to bite into wood. It is self feeding.

 

 

 When boring holes 3/4” or larger, specially in hardwoods it just takes too much effort to crank full revolutions. Even if possible the effort required will most likely cause brace to wobble eliminating accuracy of hole or striping wood at the feeding screw canceling the self feeding of it. It is best to use ratcheting  feature and do short pulls towards your body. It is always more precise to pull towards your abdomen ( your center of gravity) than to push away from it. Although there are specialized attachments to indicate wether bit is vertical two squares next to it are my favorite method.

 

 As far as braces go this one below is the “cat’s meow “. It’s about 140 years old and totally superior to anything that came after. Solid reliable wear proof ratcheting mechanism that also has handy free turning feature and an incredible chuck that securely accepts any auger or bit put in it. Cocobolo wood parts and ball bearing pad. They should have stopped while they were ahead but like always they had to reinvent the wheel.

 

[Pullstart 62,852]

Once again, thank you Cas!  Such awesome stuff in that read!

[John2189 453]

Thank you for this very informative article on the Brace. 
 

well done 

[rmaynard 15,458]

I've always had a brace. Mine was handed down from my father, and I think I have one that was from my wife's father. The grandsons find them fascinating.

[lynnmor 7,305]

I have a machine shop and keep a brace with a countersink to deburr holes.  I doubt that many think about using them in anything besides woodworking.

[John2189 453]

Here is one my neighbor gave me. I know nothing about it. There are no markings on it. 

What would the best way to clean it up? Im assuming sandpaper would not be good. 
 

i don’t think it is very old since the keepers for the crank grip looks like plastic. 

Edited August 2, 2022 by John2189

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

I used a wire brush to clean up the rust on this not at all scetchy hammer I use to open boxes 

[8ntruck 6,999]

As I was reading this post, the sound of an auger cutting and the smell of pine chips came to mind.

 

Also learned my 'something new' for today - the use of your forehead to brace the brace.

[formariz 11,987]

2 hours ago, John2189 said:

Here is one my neighbor gave me. I know nothing about it. There are no markings on it. 

What would the best way to clean it up? Im assuming sandpaper would not be good. 
 

i don’t think it is very old since the keepers for the crank grip looks like plastic. 

Don’t use sandpaper. Although a bit messy the best way is to use a scotch brute pad and paint thinner. It will remove most rust but not alter its patina leaving it clean and looking it’s age. I believe your dies have wood handles . Put a little oil in the moving parts such as under handle. Pad on top should ride on a ball bearing. It will need a little oil.

[formariz 11,987]

6 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I have a machine shop and keep a brace with a countersink to deburr holes.  I doubt that many think about using them in anything besides woodworking.

They are very useful everywhere. There are countless attachments available for many different functions. There are socket sets for them. Nothing better to drive screws specially large ones. 

Edited August 2, 2022 by formariz

[formariz 11,987]

16 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

As I was reading this post, the sound of an auger cutting and the smell of pine chips came to mind.

 

Also learned my 'something new' for today - the use of your forehead to brace the brace.

Funny you say that. A very distinct satisfying sound and scent. I always look forward to it. 
 

 No gadgets needed. Your body is an accurate sensor of plumb and level. One can visually detect one sixteenth or less out of level and plumb and your body is a good aid to maintain that just as your hands can detect imperfections not visible by eye. The body can also be a very effective clamp and vise in many operations such as when using a handsaw or knife.

[formariz 11,987]

58 minutes ago, The Freightliner Guy said:

I used a wire brush to clean up the rust on this not at all scetchy hammer I use to open boxes 

There is something not seen everyday.

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

It has a razor blade on the back I’ve used this hammer to carve pumpkins and open packages 

[John2189 453]

1 minute ago, The Freightliner Guy said:

It has a razor blade on the back I’ve used this hammer to carve pumpkins and open packages 

Is that a roofing hammer?

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

I think it is

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

[John2189 453]

3 minutes ago, The Freightliner Guy said:

Never seen one like that, and you have two of them. 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

Yeah it say’s  hickory hammer 

Edited August 2, 2022 by The Freightliner Guy

[formariz 11,987]

8 minutes ago, John2189 said:

Never seen one like that, and you have two of them. 

It’s a roofing hammer with depth gage and replaceable blade. It is made by Estwing. 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

Is there anything rare about it these are the only ones I’ve seen I don’t see them anywhere such as Home Depot and such

Edited August 2, 2022 by The Freightliner Guy

[formariz 11,987]

4 minutes ago, The Freightliner Guy said:

Is there anything rare about it 

Rare in the sense that not many people know about them reason being not many use hand tools. It is usually referred to as a Shinglers Hatchet.  They still are made today and readily available. They cost about $30.00. 
 Sure Strike is a trade mark belonging to Estwing.

Edited August 2, 2022 by formariz

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

Did I put the auger in right 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

It won’t dig in 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

The big ones are impossible to use I’ll stick with the small ones