Skwerl58 737 #1 Posted August 1, 2022 I picked up a 103-990 ignition switch, electric fuel pump and condenser for my 1970 GT14 that I am trying to get going. After installing the condenser I went to install the switch and immediately noticed that there was a wires going to a toggle switch that went to the coil and the solenoid. The ignition switch only has two wires connected. Can anyone help me solve this. Also where would be the best place to wire in the fuel pump. Thanks for any suggestions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,158 #2 Posted August 1, 2022 The flat 3-wire connector at the left looks like a small voltage regulator and one wire from the switch appears to go to the center terminal on the regulator. Another goes to the hot side of the solenoid. Correct? Then the other small wire goes to the black and guessing on to the ignition coil but this is not original to the 1970 GT-14 which had breakerless ignition. Post a picture of the ignition coil so we can determine the type of ignition. The 103990 is wrong for breakerless ignition. The ignition may have been changed to battery type and the 103990 would be correct. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 737 #3 Posted August 1, 2022 This is only picture of the coil that I have. The condenser connects to the same post as the wire that goes to the points cover (?). The wire from the toggle switch connects to the other post. I re-routed the wire from the toggle switch to the coil so it is visible on the outside of the flywheel cover. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,383 #4 Posted August 2, 2022 That birds nest wiring disaster is going to have to go. Use this wiring diagram as a guide and you will want to connect the fuel pump to the "A" terminal of the ignition switch and give it a 10 amp fuse. As long as your voltage regulator is inserted into the cooling fin area of your engine's flywheel cover it should be fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,158 #5 Posted August 2, 2022 The old wiring looks correct for battery ignition so the 103990 is correct. The old switch with just 2 wires was from battery power to the solenoid to energize it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 737 #6 Posted August 2, 2022 Thanks for the help. I have a copy of the schematic 953 nut posted from my prior post asking for switch help. While looking at it today I knew it had to be a better way. Thanks quest for the guide. Now to get to it and solve it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,141 #7 Posted August 2, 2022 (edited) 49 minutes ago, Skwerl58 said: I have a copy of the schematic 953 nut posted from my prior post asking for switch help The back of the switch will have letters for each pole. A is for accessory or lights. The other 4 are below. They sell the correct harness connector for the switch with 18" pigtail wires. Scroll down to the 11th item. Universal wire harness http://www.psep.biz/store/electrical_mower.htm Edited August 2, 2022 by wallfish 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,383 #8 Posted August 2, 2022 9 hours ago, wallfish said: Universal wire harness This seller has the same thing for $ 10.50 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324924462090 When you buy crimp wire connectors avoid the cheap junk from Harbor Freight. Buy good quality ones at NAPA or other quality auto parts stores. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 737 #9 Posted August 2, 2022 Thanks again! I think all my questions for today may be answered. The wiring harness might be here by Saturday. Hopefully I might get it going next week! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
