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RustyGold

(New to me) Workhorse 700

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Pullstart

Were the tires originally backwards?  :lol:

 

Awesome find!  Didn’t you mention that you’re overseas now? *edit* sorry wrong fella I think!

Edited by Pullstart
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RustyGold
2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Were the tires originally backwards?  :lol:

 

Awesome find!  Didn’t you mention that you’re overseas now? *edit* sorry wrong fella I think!

Yea , wrong dude , I’m stateside in CT ! 

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oldlineman

Ya rear tires will work better if swapped side to side.

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Pullstart
2 minutes ago, oldlineman said:

Ya rear tires will work better if swapped side to side.

 

Maybe they are better suited that way for backing out of a sticky situation 

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Sparky
48 minutes ago, RustyGold said:

Just picked up this very original & rare  workhorse 700 for $200. The seller said it ran real good & sure enough it did! Tires look new too & it came with a plow . I think I did pretty good on this one ! ….

Lucky you… musta beat me to it. I messaged about that one as well, never heard back.

  Congratulations :handgestures-thumbupright:

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RustyGold
1 hour ago, oldlineman said:

Ya rear tires will work better if swapped side to side.

I didn’t even notice that . I’ll prob switch them ! 

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Retired Wrencher

Nice pick up. I would say the seat and pan are worth half of what you paid for it. Enjoy it.

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SylvanLakeWH

Nice!

 

:clap:

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Ken B

This Work Horse totally looks like one of my old ones...... Nice score

 

Edited by Ken B
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RustyGold
1 hour ago, Ken B said:

This Work Horse totally looks like one of my old ones...... Nice score

Thanks Ken , WOW you got a real impressive collection of wheelhorses ! The one I wish I kept & still looking for Is a WH 702 . Nice to see some fellow members here in CT ! 

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Wild Bill in VA

It is interesting to note that the Tecumseh H-70 aluminum block engine (that should be on that model Wheel Horse) was used only 1 year and that was in 1969. The Tecumseh H-60 is an aluminum block engine, but the 1968 Wheel Horse model Commando 6 used a Tecumseh HH-60 cast iron block engine and the 1968 500 Special used a Tecumseh H-60 recoil start aluminum block engine. All three models had similar horsepower ratings but had the same frame and transmission but used different materials for the block.  

Wild Bill in Richmond VA

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RustyGold
20 hours ago, Wild Bill in VA said:

It is interesting to note that the Tecumseh H-70 aluminum block engine (that should be on that model Wheel Horse) was used only 1 year and that was in 1969. The Tecumseh H-60 is an aluminum block engine, but the 1968 Wheel Horse model Commando 6 used a Tecumseh HH-60 cast iron block engine and the 1968 500 Special used a Tecumseh H-60 recoil start aluminum block engine. All three models had similar horsepower ratings but had the same frame and transmission but used different materials for the block.  

Wild Bill in Richmond VA

So I looked at the engine . It’s a Tecumseh 

HM-80 . Def not original but it runs real smooth w no smoke . One thing I don’t like , the muffler vents through the front grill . It discolored the front & it gets real hot . I def need to re-route it to vent through the side 

8309C532-2838-44F9-BE56-1BD38F6136CA.jpeg

83773A4E-17D3-47F7-AA15-1ADE36B62B71.jpeg

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Wild Bill in VA

Back in the late 1960's Wheel Horse found out that the exhaust pointing to the front of the tractor when moving forward that the air pressure just from the tractor moving in that direction would cause extra exhaust back pressure on the engine making it run rough. To fix this problem a shield was put over the holes in the muffler outlet and pointed the spent exhaust gases out to the right, which blocked the air pressure from trying to go into the outlet holes. I would get some 3/4 pipe starting out of the engine with a 2-inch nipple then a 90-degree elbow then thread the muffler into the elbow.

Here's some pictures of the evolution of the Wheel Horse/Tecumseh exhaust systems. 1) First type used from 1962 till 1967 (1968 Lawn Ranger too) 2) 1968, note holes pointing to the front of the tractor 3) front holes now shielded and exhaust gases pointing to the right (note this NOT the factory shield type but represents the meaning, a sheild type muffler is hard to find):scared-eek:

Wild Bill in Richmond VA

KIMG1597.JPG

KIMG1595.JPG

KIMG1594.JPG

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RustyGold

Wow , thanks for the helpful info wild bill !  

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Handy Don
14 hours ago, Wild Bill in VA said:

2) 1968, note holes pointing to the front of the tractor 3) front holes now shielded and exhaust gases pointing to the right (note this NOT the factory shield type but represents the meaning, a sheild type muffler is hard to find):scared-eek:

Wild Bill in Richmond VA

 

KIMG1595.JPG  KIMG1594.JPG

Bill, thanks for the illustrated history!

My '68 LR HH-60 (yeah, a PO replacement with an early 70's build number) has the forward vent exhaust like your left image which puts the exhaust behind the grille. I've considered the Tecumseh bolt-on-to-threaded exhaust adaptor but I'm not convinced there is enough room for a pipe elbow and I'd need an extra support, etc.

I've been hunting for the "shield version" with no luck but seeing your image of a "slightly modified" muffler, has me thinking I'll look at making a "shield" to redirect the exhaust instead of blocking it and drilling new holes.

Also, I noticed that @RustyGold's HM-80 model has the intake and exhaust positions reversed.

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RustyGold

We’ll here’s the new exhaust setup ... I bought  3/4” cast iron pipe fittings from Home Depot . I wrapped all the threads with Teflon tape. Just waiting for the new muffler from Amazon . Should I put an exhaust hanger somewhere?  Also , I swapped the tires so the treads are going in the right direction now ! 

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0C2420B8-C2A9-4CDF-A307-D740C81D3F1D.jpeg

Edited by RustyGold
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Wild Bill in VA

On some models Wheel Horse used a pipe jam nut to secure the elbow to the block, this keeps the exhaust in place and not drift down. The Lawn Ranger model used a flat bracket to the block to support the exhaust.

Wild Bill in Richmond VA

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oldlineman

There was no need for teflon tape it will just burn off and smoke, as Wild Bill has stated you should put a locking ring at the block to keep the piping from turning down over time. Bob

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RustyGold
4 hours ago, oldlineman said:

There was no need for teflon tape it will just burn off and smoke, as Wild Bill has stated you should put a locking ring at the block to keep the piping from turning down over time. Bob

Teflon Is recommended for threaded exhaust fittings . It won’t burn according to what I read online . Another important fact .. steel & aluminum should not touch . The Teflon acts as an insulator . The dissimilar metals can cause a reaction to the aluminum. 

Edited by RustyGold

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sjoemie himself

@RustyGold let us know how the tape holds up. My first thought was the same as @oldlineman but you're right that teflon can withstand quite high temperatures.

 

 

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RustyGold
On 7/31/2022 at 5:06 PM, sjoemie himself said:

@RustyGold let us know how the tape holds up. My first thought was the same as @oldlineman but you're right that teflon can withstand quite high temperatures.

 

 

Ok , the Teflon tape did not hold up to the heat , despite what I read online . I ended up re-doing the exhaust flange at the block so it’s more secure with the double bolts . 

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16648F1C-3032-40BB-B5C1-77166C2C5573.jpeg

Edited by RustyGold
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sjoemie himself

Thanks for the update. Bummer to read it did'nt work with the teflon tape.

Nice flange you got there, home made? 

 

1 hour ago, RustyGold said:

Teflon tape did not hold up

 

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RustyGold
2 hours ago, sjoemie himself said:

Thanks for the update. Bummer to read it did'nt work with the teflon tape.

Nice flange you got there, home made? 

 

 

I got the flange kit on Amazon. The holes lined up perfect to the block but the bolts they provided were a little too small. I had to enlarge the flange holes a tiny bit & use my own bolts . 

0F30578B-07A9-4B5F-BD58-45782825A3FC.png

Edited by RustyGold
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