Paint brand

[Heatingman 971]

I’ll be painting in the next couple weeks. Originally I bought and planned to use Kylon Implement paint. I am second guessing that choice. As I have read some reviews that it does not dry properly.

 

So I am thinking about returning the paint and getting Rustoleum implement instead. 
 

planning to buy quarts or pints and use a spray gun.

 

also read epoxy primer may be the way to go also. Is their a good one I can source on Amazon?

[Prestons Hobby 76]

I personally prefer to use a Red Oxide primer.  It is not the same as it was 20 years ago but I have had good results with rust not reappearing. As far as the implement paint, I typically use the 2-part epoxy paint and put a light coat on for the first coat and let it get tacky so it does not produce “runs” and then apply a second coat just a little heavier. (Key word little)

the 2-part epoxy seems to hide a lot of sins without hours of sandpaper work. If there is a better method or system out there that works better I’d love to hear some off them because I too will be painting a couple of tractors myself very soon. 

[pacer 3,169]

I use the common Rustoleum in both quart and rattle can for a couple reasons. For starters its relatively inexpensive (so far!!) and readily available and after 10-12 yrs using it I find its a good paint. For large pieces I use a spray gun with a dab of acetone and a dab of hardener, and It dries reasonably quickly. I use the rattle cans for the small pieces. Another is I build my horses to please my self and use them (no trailer queens) 

 

From being on this forum for a number of yrs, I have a strong suspicion that a goodly number of members use Rustoleum. 

 

 

[ri702bill 8,319]

3 hours ago, Heatingman said:

also read epoxy primer may be the way to go also.

Be CAREFUL with any 2 part paints - a GOOD respirator must be used as that stuff in the air is lethal. If you wish to see your unborn grandkids - don't just use a dust mask.

BTW - how many body shop guys you know that lived to retire?? That is a rather exclusive club...

Bill (a former spray painter and can still talk about it...)

[Heatingman 971]

32 minutes ago, pacer said:

I use the common Rustoleum in both quart and rattle can for a couple reasons. For starters its relatively inexpensive (so far!!) and readily available and after 10-12 yrs using it I find its a good paint. For large pieces I use a spray gun with a dab of acetone and a dab of hardener, and It dries reasonably quickly. I use the rattle cans for the small pieces. Another is I build my horses to please my self and use them (no trailer queens) 

 

From being on this forum for a number of yrs, I have a strong suspicion that a goodly number of members use Rustoleum. 

 

 

Yes, while I want it to look a certain way, I am restoring it to make it new again to use it. For mowing and plowing. I mainly want the paint to hold up for a good long time

 

 

[pacer 3,169]

This is what I try to end up with...... Thats Rustoleum Sunrise Red.

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,747]

I'll add these pictures so you can see this Rustoleum Regal Red (with hardener) next to pacers Sunrise Red. (I like both colors)  while this picture is just after restoring, Its going on 6 years and has held up very well 

It interesting how in different light this looks a lighter than the above picture, same tractor.

[Heatingman 971]

So I have returned the krylon. Have not totally settled on what I will use for the tractor itself yet.

 

I want to paint different parts, different colors.

 

Frame - either grey or black, fender and hood, a variety of red, Plow and mower deck some type of orange/yellow, like Catepillar uses.

 

Was having a hard time sourcing Rustoleum locally in the quantities I want for use in a spray gun. None of the usual suspects have the right colors.

 

Today I stopped in at the local Ace, whom I typically bypass cause the pricing is usually much higher then the bigger players.

Surprised to find that not only is their price competitive, they also have a much wider selection of Rustoleum and they also have their own brand of implement paint as well, which I may try for some portions. 

Not quite to the point of being ready to paint, but some parts are really close. Still got of few parts to sand blast and prep. And bolts to prep also. 
 

Maybe end of next weekend. I will be ready for paint. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ineedanother 1,369]

3 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

Today I stopped in at the local Ace, whom I typically bypass cause the pricing is usually much higher then the bigger players.

Surprised to find that not only is their price competitive, they also have a much wider selection of Rustoleum and they also have their own brand of implement paint as well, which I may try for some portions. 

I shop Ace a bit. Franchises with local ownership which I can appreciate. Some things there beat the big two hands down as far as hardware and such for the homeowner. I've used the Ace Premium enamel on shop equipment with good results. Made in the USA. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again. 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,557]

All you ever or never wanted to know about  paint… check out this thread:

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,217]

15 hours ago, ineedanother said:

I shop Ace a bit. Franchises with local ownership which I can appreciate. Some things there beat the big two hands down as far as hardware and such for the homeowner. I've used the Ace Premium enamel on shop equipment with good results. Made in the USA. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again. 

Similar experience--I'm ok with 5% higher price to keep the local franchisee in business. Their Hillman hardware bins are much more frequently maintained so very rare not to get what I need.

The Ace version of "anti-rust" paint has worked well where I've used it on non-WH equipment.

A LOT depends on how the shop is run. We had another ACE that went out of business in a stellar location but he didn't have enough space and it was poorly run.

[squonk 41,104]

I find Sunrise Red to orangey for me. Remember colors vary from person to person so you Sunrise guys don't hate me. 

 

I use Regal Red and when my final coat is still wet, I spray on  Rustoleum Chrystal Clear. Everything dries pretty quick and looks good

[Heatingman 971]

Anyone use any additives? Like Japan Drier to speed the drying? 
 

Or Penetrol to improve durability?

 

looked into traditional automotive paints, primers, and clears. Prices are way out of budget for a lawn tractor. Especially for wanting multiple colors. 

 

 

 

[Heatingman 971]

Well finally starting to make some progress.

 

plow and all its hardware got a few coats of red oxide primer.

 

 

 

 

 

[Heatingman 971]

 

 

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,747]

On 7/29/2022 at 12:14 PM, Heatingman said:

Anyone use any additives? Like Japan Drier to speed the drying? 
 

Or Penetrol to improve durability?

 

looked into traditional automotive paints, primers, and clears. Prices are way out of budget for a lawn tractor. Especially for wanting multiple colors. 

 

 

 

I use Majic brand Enamel hardener with Rustoleum Regal Red paint. It’s available at Tractor Supply [don’t use their Majic paint-poor quality]. I’ve also used this hardener with Sherwin Williams oil based enamel to paint cabinets. So it seems to work with many brands. With it the paint seems to dry a little faster, harder, and it adds a little more gloss shine.   I believe several on here use an enamel hardener, there are a few brands out there. 
Please wear a good quality respirator using it. 

Edited August 5, 2022 by oliver2-44

[Heatingman 971]

2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

I use Majic brand Enamel sharpener with Rustoleum Regal Red paint. It’s available at Tractor Supply [don’t use their Majic paint-poor quality]. I’ve also used this hardener with Sherwin Williams oil based enamel to paint cabinets. So it seems to work with many brands. With it the paint seems to dry a little faster, harder, and it adds a little more gloss shine.   I believe several on here use an enamel hardener, there are a few brands out there. 
Please wear a good quality respirator using it. 

you just use the ratio shown on the can?

[Heatingman 971]

Well I picked up some of that hardener. And used it with the Ace Brand Rust Stop implement paint (oil based enamel) went with roughly 16 to 1 and a little naptha for thinning.

 

Went fairly well, got the plow parts painted.

 

Guessing it wont be dry enough to move around till morning.

 

Not sure what if any effect the harder will play on dry time. Seems oil based just takes a lifetime to dry. 
 

 

[Heatingman 971]

[jeepdan 321]

I have been using 8 to1 ratio of the Majic hardener/catalyst + 1 part Majic enamel reducer added to Rust Oleum farm & implement paint. 

High gloss and dries fast. You can handle painted parts in about eight hours.

[Thor27 767]

On 7/29/2022 at 10:14 AM, Heatingman said:

Anyone use any additives? Like Japan Drier to speed the drying? 
 

Or Penetrol to improve durability?

 

looked into traditional automotive paints, primers, and clears. Prices are way out of budget for a lawn tractor. Especially for wanting multiple colors. 

 

 

 

I like to use 2 cap fulls of flood penetrol, a cap full of japan black, and a splash of the majik hardener in regal red. I don't know if penetrol does anything for durability, but it does seem to lay down better.

I credit the hardener for durability and scratch resistance..   Don't know if the japan dryer is doing anything for me honestly. 

 

[Heatingman 971]

Not happy with the paint durability.

 

sprayed the primer over the weekend, was pretty happy with that.

 

sprayed the top coat Monday I think. Its been curing for a few days.

 

started reassembly of the plow. Seems like if I look at the finish the wrong way it chips off.

 

Either the hardener is not compatible with the Ace Rust stop paint, or its just garbage paint.

 

Set it on a piece of wood today, and I mean gently set in order to get the blade elevated, and when I readjusted the position, paint came off. Im practically wearing kid gloves moving this around.

 

One part touches another during reassembly, both get a chip.

 

Primer is the same brand and series and made to be used with oil based. 
 

Back to the drawing board I guess. 
 

gonna have to make some test pieces and test durability / add in compatibility before I coat the rest of the pieces and strip down and recoat this one

 

 

Edited August 4, 2022 by Heatingman

[Heatingman 971]

Also what looks like runs in the paint in the above pic, its some oil I used to lubricate in that area, as thats where the plow pivot is. 

 

Maybe Im just too impatient, not sure.

 

But I would think 4 1/2 days is plenty to cure enough to move gingerly without huge chunk removal.

 

Maybe the pressure washer will take this off. Really not wanting to sandblast again outside the cabinet.

 

Scrapping off real easy so far. 

 

 

 

[Heatingman 971]

Did a little paint comparison testing.

 

rusto implement paint I had on hand - happened to be JD yellow (I used for a chop saw cabinet) no additives

 

the Ace rust stop oil based - equipment yellow no additives 

 

and the Ace rust stop enamel from a spray can.

 

after a day - the spray can hardened fine to the finger nail, the others still not - to be expected.

 

after 2 days the Rusto oil based passes the nail test.

 

after 3 days the Ace still fails with ease. Either that paint just takes forever to cure, or its gone bad, or …

 

 

[gt14rider 759]

Regal Red dries faster