John2189 454 #1 Posted July 24, 2022 What stops the gears from grinding when putting in gear? Its an 8 speed. After it is in gear, it seems to be ok. Just going from neutral into gear is when it grinds john Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,387 #2 Posted July 24, 2022 Hopefully you're not shifting while moving, and that the belt guard is in place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #3 Posted July 24, 2022 These are NOT synchro-mesh transmissions. EVERY gear must begin from a STANDING STOP. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #4 Posted July 24, 2022 When I start it in neutral, i push the clutch in and hold it for a few seconds and it grinds going in to gear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,638 #5 Posted July 24, 2022 @John2189 is your clutch linkage lubricated ? is it rusty , binding ? hanging up ? what does your trans fluid look like ? clean and clear or milky / funky looking ? shift boot torn? number of related functional spots , have to fully move to insure , operation . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #6 Posted July 24, 2022 7 minutes ago, peter lena said: @John2189 is your clutch linkage lubricated ? is it rusty , binding ? hanging up ? what does your trans fluid look like ? clean and clear or milky / funky looking ? shift boot torn? number of related functional spots , have to fully move to insure , operation . pete Oil is clean. Will have to check the other stuff. I assume the clutch is just putting slack in the drive belt. I’ll take the belt guard off and see what is going on. Is there a physical stop to stop the belt from turning when the clutch pedal is pushed in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,638 #7 Posted July 24, 2022 @John2189 actually the idler pulley , is the engagement point , its spring loaded , so the tension is always there , btw that idler pulley is known for binding up / grabby failure , when you pull that guard verify that all related movement points , are not rusty , lubricate those areas . if every related movement point does not move with ease , there can be a problem such as yours . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #8 Posted July 24, 2022 31 minutes ago, peter lena said: @John2189 actually the idler pulley , is the engagement point , its spring loaded , so the tension is always there , btw that idler pulley is known for binding up / grabby failure , when you pull that guard verify that all related movement points , are not rusty , lubricate those areas . if every related movement point does not move with ease , there can be a problem such as yours . pete Thanks I’ll check it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,355 #9 Posted July 24, 2022 Verify you have a fabric covered belt and not one with rubber contacting the pulleys. Also be certain it's in good condition and the proper size. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill in VA 1,452 #10 Posted July 24, 2022 There will be a small tang the width of the belt that the belt will drag on and slow the belt on the belt guard. The axles and the input drive pulley should be at a stop to enable the gears to be selected. Here's some pictures of a factory Unidrive cut a way transmission. Wild Bill in Richmond VA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,347 #11 Posted July 24, 2022 Too bad it is all rusted to Hades - there were many good usable parts in there - not anymore..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjoemie himself 3,068 #12 Posted July 24, 2022 Might not be too late @ri702bill @Wild Bill in VA Give her a bath of Evap-o-rust and I think you'll be surprised how well it cleans up. Might not be in running working condition again but surely much nicer to look at and use as an educational piece. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #13 Posted July 24, 2022 2 hours ago, John2189 said: When I start it in neutral, i push the clutch in and hold it for a few seconds and it grinds going in to gear. This tells me that the BELT is not at STOP when you depress the clutch...and it MUST be at STOP. Otherwise, if the belt is still moving, it is turning the trans drive gear. PROBLEM: (1) wrong drive belt (2) belt guard MUST be on ...it 'catches' the slack when clutch is depressed. There is a 'RAIL' on the back side of the Belt GUARD that catches the slack which allows the belt to 'hover' over the engine crankshaft pulley. My pic of the C-160 I own: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill in VA 1,452 #14 Posted July 24, 2022 The factory cut a way Unidrive transmissions were training tools for Wheel Horse school. The early 6 speed Unidrive cut a way transmission were point of sale displays used by Wheel Horse dealerships. Here's a picture of an early cut a way, you tell this by the extended oil fill pipe that allowed the extra oil needed for 6 speed. The cut a way case was found in a dealership in Indiana ...... minus all the gears that were sold out of it.. I put some old gears and differential in the unit to make it a working display. Notice it should have the 10-pinion differential not the 8-piniopn I installed. Wild Bill in Richmond VA 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjoemie himself 3,068 #15 Posted July 24, 2022 @Wild Bill in VA thanks for explaining! I am an absolute noob when it comes to things like this Still, a de-rusting bath would'nt hurt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #16 Posted July 24, 2022 On the left side of the trans there is a teardrop shaped bracket. Your clutch rod connects to the top. The bottom connects to the rod going into the trans by a spring pin. Make sure that spring pin isn't broken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John2189 454 #17 Posted July 24, 2022 Thanks I have a bunch of stuff to check out. Probably later in the week john Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
