Jump to content
Mark Hackett

1989 Model 310-8 Rear Axle Seals Leaking

Recommended Posts

Mark Hackett

I've got a 1989 Wheelhorse Model 310-8 garden tractor. ID # 2110K806

As per model # it has a 3 forward speed transaxle w/reverse with a high & low range for a total of 8 speed selections 

 

While checking fluids & greasing prior to mowing, I noticed that the rear axle seals were leaking. I checked transaxle oil via dipstick and it was clean and still full.

Upon further examination I noticed that the axle was tight to hub on one side and had roughly a 1 1/4" gap between hub & housing on the other side.

 

 I can't say I've ever took notice or paid attention to the gap before... So I don't know if that axle has always floated in the housing and the seals just need to be replaced due to age and use?

 Or it something inside the transaxle broke and is now letting it float and took out the seals?

 

 I don't have any unusual noises while running and I don't see any metallic in the gear lube...

 

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldlineman

most likely the hub is moving on one or both of the axle's. you need to check and tighten them, but first remove them and replace axle seals. Check to make sure axle bearings are good by checking for up down and front to back play in axles with wheels off the ground.

Edited by oldlineman
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

:text-yeahthat:         It is normal for the axles to have up to 1/8" axial  in and out movement.

     As @oldlineman  stated above, any radial movement indicates a worn bearing and it should be replaced before installing a new seal.

 

The seals can be replaced easily from the outside, but the case must be split to replace a bearing.

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

As stated, if the bearing is bad, the seal is the victim, not the problem.

At least with the leak, the hub to axle joint got juiced up - makes foe easier hub removal.

One setscrew over the key, or two?? If only one, I add a second one at 90 degrees to lock the hub - drill & tap 3/8-16 UNC and use the 5/16" tap drill to "dimple" the shaft for the second one - gives it a place to bite and not raise a burr to allow for removal in the future...

Bill

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Mark Hackett

I'd like to thank the gentleman that responded to my earlier question.

It was indeed, one loose hub... 

Removed the wheel weights, tires and hubs. Checked the play in the axle (almost a 1/8") as advised - Popped out old seals and replaced them with a pair of 6449 seals and I'm back in business.

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...