C160 motion control assembly removal.

[daveoman1966 3,752]

On the Lube of the Friction components:  When I am wrong, I am wrong,,,and will be the first to admit it.  Snoopy11 and Jeff-C175 have brought me around to their way of thinkin'.  No reason not llube this mechanism.       

 

[pacer 3,173]

Re the topic of lubing yea/nay/dirt magnet/etc ---- This is an area where spray on graphite lube would be ideal. This stuff is quite handy not only as a lube but dirt/dust/clippings dont bother it. I've kept a can in my cabinet for the last 30-40 yrs.

[manant 57]

I am almost there!

My shed has been at 100 Degrees this week so I have not spent much time there with my Wheel Horse.

 

I decided to take out the parking brake idler shaft and look at the bushings.  One flange bushing was fine and since it is the same as for the motion control shaft I decided to use it there instead of making one out of the bronze bushing I got the other day.

The other bushing was essentially gone, only the flange and a small part on the shaft was left.. I had seen a post from MikeRJ (2015) about grinding off the cap of 1/2" axle cap nuts and using them as a bushing.  I decided to do that and it looks like it will work.  I am also thinking about using one on the belt guard side of the motion control shaft. If I do that I will need to make the hole in the frame a little larger. I am undecided about that for now.

 

Also Pacer's comment about graphite reminded me that I have had some graphite lubricant in my took box for 50 years and never think to use it.  Rather than using anti seize, I put a small amount of graphite on the woodruff key and some more on the threaded adjusting sleeve.

Thanks again to everyone for helping me get this done.

Marshall

 

[manant 57]

I have the motion control unit in and working.  I tried to get it to where I had a 6 pound pull to move the lever but my threaded sleeve got all the way to the jam nut and it never got to 6 pounds.  However, the lever does operate smoothly and stays in place so I am satisfied.  At least I know more about how to adjust the thing now.  I may ease off the threaded sleeve some to find a sweet spot that is not too tight and still keeps the lever engaged.

 

Motion control shaft tab installed. I have since replaced the cap screw with a grade 8 screw with lock washer.

 

 

 

I had some frustration though.  I got all of the sheet metal back on - belt guard, fender, seat, foot rests, etc.-  and tried out the motion control.  It was fine but my drive belt was smoking.  I had failed to get the belt on top of the belt guard glide.  I knew better but was just careless (or in a hurry).  So I had to take everything else off  before I could get the belt guard off.  I fixed it and put everything back together and it is running fine again.. I had planned on replacing the drive belt and the mower belt sometime this summer so I will have to go through the whole disassembly again, but I can be in operation waiting for the belts to come.

Again, Thanks to all who provided information and guidance.

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

41 minutes ago, manant said:

6 pound pull

 

Is that the spec?

 

I would set it only tight enough to stay where I set it.

[manant 57]

The service manual indicates 6 pound pull at the top of the lever.  I agree that setting it only tight enough to keep it in place should be adequate.  I will play with it some to get it right.

[Handy Don 12,235]

On 7/27/2022 at 9:21 PM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Is that the spec?

 

I would set it only tight enough to stay where I set it.

The Eaton guide has a similar spec. I suspect the idea is that it won't move due to vibration or an accidental bump from a knee, etc. and also to lessen the chance of "radical movement" (i.e. slamming from reverse to forward to get a wheelie ).

I set ours to more like 3-4 lbs.