decvt79 5 #1 Posted July 12, 2022 My 270H model 72106 hydraulic transmission won’t engage and move tractor. Fluid level is good, belt is good and turns the shaft going into transmission and the small wheel where the brake attaches turns when transmission pedal is pushed forward and reverse. But the tractor will not move. Looking for suggestions on what it might be. Hoping simple shear pin or similar. Thanks in advance for your input. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090 #2 Posted July 12, 2022 Make sure a key in either axle has not sheared allowing the axle to spin in the hub. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #3 Posted July 12, 2022 I had previously checked axle to wheel hub but will do again. Thank you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,037 #5 Posted July 12, 2022 19 hours ago, decvt79 said: My 270H model 72106 hydraulic transmission won’t engage and move tractor. Fluid level is good, belt is good and turns the shaft going into transmission and the small wheel where the brake attaches turns when transmission pedal is pushed forward and reverse. But the tractor will not move. Looking for suggestions on what it might be. Hoping simple shear pin or similar. Thanks in advance for your input. I'm only familiar with the Eaton 700 & 1100 hydros, and this one is very different. But basically it would seem that if the brake drum is turning when the hydro is engaged, but no wheel motion, it's something between the hydro and the differential. That said, with this trans design it could just be the drive pulley turning that engages the brake drum, whether the hydro is actually "working". Not sure if the full manual for this is in the files on this forum but I'd take a look there. Welcome to the forum! Good luck. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090 #6 Posted July 12, 2022 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #7 Posted July 12, 2022 Thank you to all who have responded to my request for assistance. It is greatly appreciated and i will provide updates as I work through the issue. I have done addition checks and found the following: - the wheel hubs are indeed engaged with the axial via shear pins - the rear wheels both turn freely with no movement of the other wheel or the transmission input shaft, no interaction present - Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,444 #8 Posted July 13, 2022 17 hours ago, decvt79 said: - the rear wheels both turn freely with no movement of the other wheel or the transmission input shaft, no interaction present Ominous. Something is broken in the differential. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #9 Posted July 26, 2022 Update: problem identified. I removed the transmission cover and found that the final pinion bearing had failed. Parts in bottom of cover. Now need to find replacement bearing and also a new filter. Bearing part number from Toro is 93-0446 and is stamped with “Japan Nachi 6203”. The gasket is Toro # 93-0478. Any help verifying these part numbers for a TORO 270H model 72106 and also locating replacement parts or equivalents would be greatly appreciated. My transmission serial number is 049132. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #10 Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, decvt79 said: “Japan Nachi 6203” It's very possible that this is a generic part number and readily available. Be aware that there are variations of that bearing. The OD will always be 40 mm but the ID can differ. The STANDARD is 17 mm but they are also available with a 3/4" bore (and I believe also 16 mm). Do you have a caliper? If so, measure the ID, OD, and width. Is that the ONLY markings on the bearing? Are there seals on one or both sides of the bearing? https://thebigbearingstore.com/6203-2rs-6203-zz-radial-ball-bearing-17x40x12/ If you're an Amazon user, you can find them there also. Can't help with the gaskets, sorry. Edited July 27, 2022 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #11 Posted July 28, 2022 22 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: It's very possible that this is a generic part number and readily available. Be aware that there are variations of that bearing. The OD will always be 40 mm but the ID can differ. The STANDARD is 17 mm but they are also available with a 3/4" bore (and I believe also 16 mm). Do you have a caliper? If so, measure the ID, OD, and width. Is that the ONLY markings on the bearing? Are there seals on one or both sides of the bearing? https://thebigbearingstore.com/6203-2rs-6203-zz-radial-ball-bearing-17x40x12/ If you're an Amazon user, you can find them there also. Can't help with the gaskets, sorry. I measured old bearing - 40 by 17.15 by 12. Ordered a couple from on-line and will try them. Thanks for the help, 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #12 Posted July 28, 2022 17 minutes ago, decvt79 said: bearing Great! I'm sure you are aware that if they arrive with seals that they can be easily removed if the originals did not have them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #13 Posted August 5, 2022 Update: I put in new bearing and filter then put cover on transmission from under tractor. Filled with 20W 50 synthetic oil (recommended by local dealer) through opening on top of transmission using reservoir port for air bleed off. When case was full put in bolt and completed filler reservoir to min level. Took awhile of cycling forward and reverse before getting wheel movement and then much more cycling to actual get mower to move. Still a little noisy and slow to react. Is there a trick to get the pumps completely bleed and full and operating smoothly. Good news is it is drivable again and a relatively inexpensive repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decvt79 5 #14 Posted August 5, 2022 Another update: ran mower again today for a few minutes and it was much smoother with very little noise. Quick response in both directions when depressing pedal and stops quickly when pedal released on level ground. However, when moving forward down a slight incline it seems to freewheel when pedal is released. When off, can not move backwards but seems free moving forwards almost like when the bypass is engaged. I’m hoping after sitting the weekend and then more operating time the issue will also go away. Thanks for all who provided input. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites