Attach-A-Matic // Mule Drive Install? ‘68 Charger 12

[BrianKoch 307]

Gentlemen,

 

I must ask for your guidance installing the Attach-A-Matic + Mule Drive system to my ‘68 Charger 12. 
 

Here is a picture of my progress:

 

 

QUESTIONS:

 

Does this look right?

 

If so, what is the next step? 

Edited July 7, 2022 by BrianKoch

[rmaynard 15,431]

I'm not sure about putting a tach-a-matic on a tractor that was not designed for one or has attachments that are not designed for it. Tach-a-matic and the accompanying mowers and such weren't introducing until around 1972.

Edited July 7, 2022 by rmaynard

[Thegearhead0324 1,255]

My 1257 has one, basically the same as Charger 12. Basically its 2 plates, 1 on each side bolted to the frame, then has the rods and stuff in the middle with the spring, etc. I lucked out and found a nos one about 4 years back. 

Edited July 7, 2022 by Thegearhead0324

[roadapples 6,983]

@daveoman1966???

[daveoman1966 3,745]

4 hours ago, rmaynard said:

I'm not sure about putting a tach-a-matic on a tractor that was not designed for one or has attachments that are not designed for it. Tach-a-matic and the accompanying mowers and such weren't introducing until around 1972.

I've modified a Raider 10 and my 1972 Bronco 14 by mounting the Tach-O-Matic hitch onto the front by drilling just 3 holes for the hitch...in the Hood hinge plate.  Then hang a MULE DRIVE in that front hitch.  Works great for most ANY tach-o-matic attachment made since 1972.  In fact, Wheelhorse actually made an ADAPTER bolt-on place to accommodate the newer implements on older tractors.  However, you don't really need the adapter plate...just drill 3 holes in the hood hinge plate instead.  Here is my Bronco 14...and the older Raider 10 ...and the ADAPTER too.  

Edited July 7, 2022 by daveoman1966

[daveoman1966 3,745]

4 hours ago, BrianKoch said:

Gentlemen,

 

I must ask for your guidance installing the Attach-A-Matic + Mule Drive system to my ‘68 Charger 12. 
 

Here is a picture of my progress:

 

 

QUESTIONS:

 

Does this look right?

 

If so, what is the next step? 

You would only had to drill 3 location holes in the Hood Hinge Plate to mount the front Tach-O-Matic hitch.  Fill the gap between  the hinge plate and the Tach-o hitch with three BIG 1/2" square nuts...like this.  No welding would be needed...not at all.   

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Here is my FREE....   UPGRADE.pdf file for all to use.  

It is here on Red Square, but not sure where you'll find it.

 

MULE DRIVE UPGRADE DETAIL.pdf

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I went with the Mule Drive 800 special had on it. The deck lift arm wasn't in the frame so improvise.

Had to add another cotter pin support on the section goes through the deck lift assembly.

I did have to hang a deck lift bracket off the rear frame, factory holes were there but not machined with the recess. ( not wanting to mill the recess) So  made a long clevis with cotter pin stays. A few nice 1/2" flat washers between

Your tractor have this arm/bracket or you just going with all chain lift?

Edited July 7, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[BrianKoch 307]

I am unsure about the correct placement of the black bar // c clips // spring // circular piece.  Any ideas? 

Based off Dave’s picture, I think I have it flipped. 
 

Edited July 21, 2022 by BrianKoch

[peter lena 8,589]

@BrianKoch   brian ,note the pointed angular support pieces on the cross brace? I  used a  short piece of plastic water hose to separate and square up  that spot . slit the hose and pressed it  in  place , never leaving anything alone , just had to do that . also cleaned out and repacked out those noisy, whining , mule drive bearings , those wide rubber bearing side shields make that easy . have details if interested , pete

[Handy Don 12,174]

7 hours ago, BrianKoch said:

I am unsure about the correct placement of the black bar // c clips // spring // circular piece.

I think you are referring to the Attach-a-Matic lock/release. There have been some differences introduced over time, but the latch lock/release on all of them is pretty much these same.

In the images below, the "latch" on the attach-a-matic is closed and locked. The face of the "circular" piece (red arrow) is against the A-o-M frame and the edge is holding the "latch" in the lock position.

The blue arrow shows the "button" the operator presses to push the circular piece away from the frame (leftward in this image) allowing the latch to fall against the rod and open.

The yellow arrow shows the how the spring and clip at the other end of the rod hold the circular piece in the "closed and locked" position until the operator presses the rod at the blue arrow.

 

   

 

 

Edited July 21, 2022 by Handy Don

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I think you are referring to the Attach-a-Matic lock/release. There have been some differences introduced over time, but the latch lock/release on all of them is pretty much these same.

In the images below, the "latch" on the attach-a-matic is closed and locked. The face of the "circular" piece (red arrow) is against the A-o-M frame and the edge is holding the "latch" in the lock position.

The blue arrow shows the "button" the operator presses to push the circular piece away from the frame (leftward in this image) allowing the latch to fall against the rod and open.

The yellow arrow shows the how the spring and clip at the other end of the rod hold the circular piece in the "closed and locked" position until the operator presses the rod at the blue arrow.

 

   

 

 

Excellent work, very thorough!

 

[BrianKoch 307]

Update: Correctly oriented lock/release mechanism

 

Now I need to put the new V-Belt (Toro 94-2501) on.

[BrianKoch 307]

Gentleman, 

 

does this support arm on the mower deck go over or under the bar?

 

 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

5 hours ago, BrianKoch said:

Gentleman, 

 

does this support arm on the mower deck go over or under the bar?

 

 

 

[Monstrosity 1,127]

On 7/6/2022 at 9:10 PM, Thegearhead0324 said:

My 1257 has one, basically the same as Charger 12. Basically its 2 plates, 1 on each side bolted to the frame, then has the rods and stuff in the middle with the spring, etc. I lucked out and found a nos one about 4 years back. 

I had just recently found a NOS as well just recently on ebay came in the original box! 

[peter lena 8,589]

@Monstrosity ,nice pick up on that bracket , makes things much easier , noting your blower set up , would get a penetrating oil soak going on that  (  if you want to ) , use 2 large adjustable wrenches in opposite directions on auger bends , makes it very easy , get that auger chain soaking in cable / chain lube , lubricate the idler pulleys and mount frame on the belt tension drive , the easier it moves the more belt drive effect . make up a plastic snow slider , material gasket under that short blower chute , just magic marker a gasket , use silicone lube , that chute will slide , like butter . would also lubrication detail any related movement point or bearing . broughback a similar blower years ago , spins up with total ease ,and function . only some insight , any questions just ask , pete   

[BrianKoch 307]

Final Update:

I have removed the brackets and instead drilled through the frame as suggested. I now have a fully operational mule drive!

Thank you gentlemen!