quick way loader

[857lover 291]

so i just picked up a quick way loader with everything for 300 bucks it came off of a bolens and i know nothing about loaders but i now am seeing that the subframe should attach at the atachamatic and this one bolted right to the frame on the bolens what should i do ?? i have a 416-8 with a onnan 

[wallfish 16,988]

I suggest you build a sub-frame

Do you weld?

Edited July 4, 2022 by wallfish

[Pullstart 62,812]

Great score!

[953 nut 55,120]

Your subframe should attach to the rear axle housing and the front of the tractor's frame with continuous heavy structural angle iron. I would suggest 2" X 2" X 1/4". The piece you have will attach to the subframe. If you were to attach it to the  frame it would bend the frame in no time. The notch where the running board support is notched into the frame is the weak point but the stress of a loader could bend the frame several places. The front portion of the subframe also needs to keep the uprights from moving.

 

[lynnmor 7,302]

The original subframe straddled the rear axle and mounted into the center quick attach hitch.  The front hitch connected to the towers.  Look at the photos on this site and also download the manual for the loader. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/590-loader-kwik-way-fel-45-08211-om-iplpdf/

Edited July 5, 2022 by lynnmor

[953 nut 55,120]

The loader  subframe on mine is directly frame mounted.

Edited July 5, 2022 by 953 nut

[Tractorhead 9,064]

If you enhance or built an additional subframe, i would suggest to use rectangle pipes to

take care to be able to work with a Counterweight with heavier Loads.

This will release and destress the Frontaxle by an eventually overloaded bucket.

 

A simple way to do that is a secondary slide-in frame into the subframe what goes few inches behind the rear axle and be secured in eg. with 2 Bolts. On this secondary frame some weights stones or something else or a bucket with sand can help you to balance the Tractor and remove too much weight from the Frontaxle.

Also it can be dismounted when not needed.

 

[Handy Don 12,177]

3 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

Also it can be dismounted when not needed

Of course, you'll need serious strength because it'll weigh 70-100 kilos!

[Tractorhead 9,064]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Of course, you'll need serious strength because it'll weigh 70-100 kilos!

Or a second Wheelhorse with another FEL....

 

😂

 

no, honestly - 

I thinking about 2 smaller attachable wheels and it can be moved like a Wheelbarrow 

[857lover 291]

17 hours ago, wallfish said:

I suggest you build a sub-frame

Do you weld?

wow i do not have a welder unfortunately 

[953 nut 55,120]

2 hours ago, 857lover said:

wow i do not have a welder

Do you have a Vocational school or Community College that offers evening welding classes? 

[wallfish 16,988]

3 hours ago, 857lover said:

wow i do not have a welder unfortunately 

This can be done by drilling and bolting some parts together too. A good metal cutting saw will save time like a Pota-band saw but it's not completely necessary.

If you need help with some ideas or some how to stuff just us know. I can make another drawing.

Basically use 1 1/2" or 2" square tube and some 2" angle steel. Maybe some 1/8" plate steel to make gussets and corners for bolting pieces together.

Shouldn't be too expensive to find a local welder to fab one up for you. Use the money you saved by buying a $300 loader! LoL 

[857lover 291]

31 minutes ago, wallfish said:

This can be done by drilling and bolting some parts together too.

yeah if you could draw one up would be awsome and i was hoping someone had a picture of one already done laying on the floor so i can get a batter idea of how it’s done 

[857lover 291]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Do you have a Vocational school or Community College that offers evening welding classes? 

yeah i do i think i’m going to try and get a good deal on a welder and try this but i feel like this is too in depth of a project to learn on 

[953 nut 55,120]

1 hour ago, 857lover said:

hoping someone had a picture of one already done laying on the floor so i can get a batter idea

Here is a post that has lots of photos of several people's subframes.

 

[wallfish 16,988]

Basically a U shape with 1 1/2" or 2" square tube.

You will have to take the measurements for what you need and building it. The U length needs to go minimum from the mid tach a matic to the rear axle. I suggest running them long so you can add a weight box on the rear of the tractor.

The width needs to be just wide enough to clamp to the rear axles of the trans.

Once you get this far and post some progress as you go we can work on modifications, add ons and the front attachment point. I'm figuring if you can get this far you deserve all the help to continue but I don't want to waste a bunch of time spelling everything out for you to just not do it or have a shop build something for you.

Edited July 5, 2022 by wallfish

[wallfish 16,988]

This brace might work for the corners and possibly skip the 1/8 plate

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Unistrut-P2484-EG-Gusseted-Connector/dp/B0195UGD38/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1332609599482466&hvadid=83288325852194&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=103037&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83289060397227%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=8925_13537810&keywords=unistrut+support+bracket&qid=1657061843&sr=8-10

 

Here's what the corner brackets are that I referred to

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Unistrut-P1325-EG-Connector-Bracket/dp/B00HZT18LO/ref=sr_1_14?adgrpid=1332609599482466&hvadid=83288325852194&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=103037&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83289060397227%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=8925_13537810&keywords=unistrut+support+bracket&qid=1657061950&sr=8-14

 

Lots of uni strut brackets and parts can be used for building  stuff with bolts and I even use them for welding stuff and braces etc

Just search uni strut brackets. They come with 1/2" or 3/8" holes. I would NOT use any bolts smaller than 3/8"

Edited July 13, 2022 by wallfish

[857lover 291]

23 hours ago, wallfish said:

 

so i see how this attaches to the transmission but how does it attach the the front and where do i put my towers on each side ?  

Edited July 6, 2022 by 857lover

[953 nut 55,120]

If you plan to use the Mid Mount Tach A Matic you would attach the front to that with the 5/8" rod as @wallfish has shown. Actually I think that would be 3/4". The towers would be located about even with the steering tower or a bit further forward. 

[wallfish 16,988]

43 minutes ago, 857lover said:

where do i put my towers on each side

Bolt the cross bar you already have to this frame!

Read the red writing on top of the drawing for the place to mount the front. Mid tach a matic. Where the mower deck would connect to. The tach a matic is just an easy place to do it but you can bolt it directly to the frame too.

[857lover 291]

22 hours ago, wallfish said:

Bolt the cross bar you already have to this frame!

Read the red writing on top of the drawing for the place to mount the front. Mid tach a matic. Where the mower deck would connect to. The tach a matic is just an easy place to do it but you can bolt it directly to the frame too.

so i can use the bolts to the frame and then use the one around the transmission 

[wallfish 16,988]

2 hours ago, 857lover said:

so i can use the bolts to the frame and then use the one around the transmission

Not the ones on your cross frame. New ones from the new sub-frame you need to build instead of connecting into the tach a matic. The tach a matic is just bolted to the tractor frame too so use that or make new brackets to bolt to the frame instead. 

You need to build a strong ass sub-frame for the loader so it doesn't bend up your tractor. Short cut on that step and the hydraulics will probably bend the tractor frame. Do NOT just look for the "easy way" to do it for this application!!!!!!

Do you have the tools (saw, drill, tape measure and drill bits) and ability to build that simple U shape frame I did the drawing for? You need to be able to cut and drill steel and you can do it with bolts. Welding is better but you said you don't have one so I'm trying to help you. 

[Thor27 767]

Not a quick way, but same principle. Here are a few pics I took when building mine for an ARK. I tried to mimic the original as much as possible, I use the original front subframe, as well as the front hanger on this subframe. I used a disassembled tractor to mock it up and tac weld it together.  If you want to take up welding, It would be a good project to learn on.  Any questions just ask. I can get some measurements if helpful.

 

Build the frame first, stick it in place and tac on the axle saddles, slide in the cross member and assemble the loader where it wants to sit, tack on the crossmember, remove and final weld.

I plan to pull mine off for some tractor maintenance, when I do I will cut off the rear behind the axle so I can access the rear hitch pin and use a sleeve hitch again. 

I use a bolt instead of a pin above the axle, so there is a nut welded to the front uprights. Makes it easier to install with the wheels on. Don't see it here but there is a a 1/2"  nut welded to the sadle for a tension bolt  from underneath.  

I had set up a weight box to go in the receiver hitch, but it is a huge pita. I use loaded tires and inner outer weights instead as the weight box gets in the way and hangs up on stuff, but it would be nice to have the option, especially when you lift weight in front of the bucket.. I plan to make the box so I can lift it with the sleeve hitch so I can drop it on wheeled cart (think a steel furniture dolly) and roll it out of the way with out having to empty it.

 

[Thor27 767]

Didn't say what tractor this is for, but before building one, talk with @JCM who may have one available. 

[JCM 9,130]

Thanks. Sold it to another member.