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857lover

quick way loader

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Snowmobileaddict

You'll need to fab up a sub frame to fit the loader to your tractor with.

 

I did this a few years ago with a kwik way loader from a sears garden tractor for my 522xi:

 

 

Edited by Snowmobileaddict

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857lover

what size is that tube steel ?

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Snoopy11
On 7/5/2022 at 5:11 PM, 857lover said:

yeah i do i think i’m going to try and get a good deal on a welder and try this but i feel like this is too in depth of a project to learn on 

You got that right.

 

You really need to know what you are doing on a project like this... ;)

 

Welding is an art... and if you haven't learned the art... it's going to be ugly...

 

uglyart.jpg.5f67db79acf53546fc047eaec7a67b2d.jpg

 

Don

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857lover
On 7/5/2022 at 7:04 PM, wallfish said:

wouldn’t i need to find those gussets 90 prices in 2 inch variety or can i still use them

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wallfish

You can find those strut pieces in Home Depot / Lowes. they're 3/16 thick and plenty strong. The ones posted are for strut so they don't come in custom sizes. They don't necessarily need to match the exact size of the square tube.

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857lover
On 7/8/2022 at 2:20 AM, Thor27 said:

Not a quick way, but same principle. Here are a few pics I took when building mine for an ARK. I tried to mimic the original as much as possible, I use the original front subframe, as well as the front hanger on this subframe. I used a disassembled tractor to mock it up and tac weld it together.  If you want to take up welding, It would be a good project to learn on.  Any questions just ask. I can get some measurements if helpful.

 

Build the frame first, stick it in place and tac on the axle saddles, slide in the cross member and assemble the loader where it wants to sit, tack on the crossmember, remove and final weld.

I plan to pull mine off for some tractor maintenance, when I do I will cut off the rear behind the axle so I can access the rear hitch pin and use a sleeve hitch again. 

I use a bolt instead of a pin above the axle, so there is a nut welded to the front uprights. Makes it easier to install with the wheels on. Don't see it here but there is a a 1/2"  nut welded to the sadle for a tension bolt  from underneath.  

I had set up a weight box to go in the receiver hitch, but it is a huge pita. I use loaded tires and inner outer weights instead as the weight box gets in the way and hangs up on stuff, but it would be nice to have the option, especially when you lift weight in front of the bucket.. I plan to make the box so I can lift it with the sleeve hitch so I can drop it on wheeled cart (think a steel furniture dolly) and roll it out of the way with out having to empty it.

 

20211218_162427.jpg.157cd4a4c5fcb87e99fc45ae73c059e7.jpg.d7279a6f9dd8595767274fbd86dd16ab.jpg20211219_170829.jpg.7e53d3d27767aa73702fef1df5c4abc2.jpg.dc456721b8086e21250d7d56a821196e.jpg20211219_170842.jpg.112bbc4575d64532eaf359e3d1f2bfc9.jpg.024c321064fe60d543e2d09624493ac9.jpg20211226_141438.jpg.b79d108f403aeb7d4f75159f397108d5.jpg.334539453f8ad46aeca9077579125889.jpg

how long argue the two long peices that run the length of the frame ? just trying to figure out how many feet of squarestock i need and where did you get that clamp like thing that goes over the axel i asume you built it but hey worth the ask

 

Edited by 857lover

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Thor27

I'll get you a list of what's in that sub frame when I get back home this weekend.

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wallfish
11 hours ago, 857lover said:

how long argue the two long peices that run the length of the frame ? just trying to figure out how many feet of squarestock i need and where did you get that clamp like thing that goes over the axel i asume you built it but hey worth the ask

You're going to need a tape measure to build anything anyway so take one out to your tractor and estimate how long YOU want them. The pics above give a good idea where to measure to and from. You can make them long out the rear past the trans for supporting a weight box. You can measure the width by measuring at the trans on the flats of the axles where you want to mount it. The more you are familiar with the mounting points on your tractor the better you can build it. You'll be much better off trying to figure some of this stuff out on your own instead of relying on others to provide all of the answers. Your tractor is there and you may see something we don't plus you will learn more on how to figure out what works best for you and best for your tractor. There are so many variables to consider for members to be able to provide correct answers like your skill level, ability, tools you have, tools you don't have, tools you need. We don't know these things except you can't weld. A good idea is to mock one up out of wood so you can see what it looks like on the tractor and hone in on the measurements you want before committing to the steel. Wood is much easier and cheaper to work with and adjust and faster. Then when it's what you want, measure your wood frame parts and make the steel frame. I'm not trying to discourage you from asking questions. That's how we all learn. But by trying to figure out stuff on your own you will learn more and strengthen your abilities. You will find that you'll learn much much more from mistakes than if you're given all the answers and breeze through it perfectly. This applies to most things in life as well. Don't be afraid to make mistakes!!!!!!!!! 

You can bolt pieces of angle to the top of the frame to make those trans mounts.

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Thor27
On 7/13/2022 at 3:08 PM, 857lover said:

how long argue the two long peices that run the length of the frame ? just trying to figure out how many feet of squarestock i need and where did you get that clamp like thing that goes over the axel i asume you built it but hey worth the ask

 

 

My front to back pieces are 2 x 2 x 1/4 and 43" long, but I do plan to cut 7" off the back. As mentioned before I want to be able to use a clevis hitch, but it would also be easier to install being shorter.

The cross members are 11 1/2:

the front drop plates appear to have been carved from 4 x 4 x 1/4 angle and they are 8" long.

The clamp like thing on the axle was made from some 4 x 6 x 1/4 box tube cut to size and welded together draped over a wheel horse axle. (had to make them twice because I'd made the first set on an 8 speed axle).

The crossmember the loader mounts to is 2 x 3 x 3/8 and 43 1/2" long.

 

I know the wall thicknesses may be overkill, but I wanted the weight, as well as the rigidity.  I would suggest you get the loader crossmember and uprights as far back as possible for a more stable tractor.  (but pay attention to leave enough room for the hood to open some!)

Edited by Thor27
correct typo

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Thor27

Also, worth mentioning,  DO maintain and fix anything the tractor may require before bolting that thing on as it is pretty hard to do much of anything after.

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Thor27

Also,  mine sat for over 4 years from the time I bought it to when I actually got it back together, I'd blown out and capped all the lines and cut the top off and cleaned out the reservoir.. but didn't disassemble and clean inside of rams. I had added a filter in the return side, but.....  Within an hour of starting it I wiped out the original pump the new oil I drained out had a bunch of dirt, metal, and rust in it.   So it would be worth it to try and flush out anything you can. 

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