Vagabond surf 5 #1 Posted July 4, 2022 I need to replace pretty much the entire steering system on a 502. Pretty sure it is a 62 502 Wheel horse. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #2 Posted July 4, 2022 (edited) Are we talking tie rods or do you need the steering shaft, fan gear, etc?? Picture of the damage would help. Click on the link below for your manual. There will be exploded views with part numbers for you tractor. With this info you can post in our classifieds for the parts that you need. Edited July 4, 2022 by Achto 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #3 Posted July 4, 2022 to the forum. Whatever you are needing to repair, several folks here have probably made the same repair and will be willing to chip in with some advice. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,297 #4 Posted July 4, 2022 @fast88pu has a project starting and may be able to fix you up with any steering parts you need. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #6 Posted July 5, 2022 (edited) The placement of the shifter pattern / serial number is correct for a 502 - different location for the 552 and 702. I also am building a 502, and did several modifications to remove excess play in the steering. Machined the lower block, axle spindle bores, pivot bore, and lower steering shaft for bronze bushings. Did the same on the flat bar tie rod plate. Also added grooves in the lower shaft to hold grease. Had one spindle with excessive wear, that was TIG welded to build it up and hand filed to shape. Got rid of the wheel bushings, switched to the later style flanged ball bearings. Tapped the ends of the spindles for a retaining bolt - the inner races are now stationary, no longer spinning on the shaft. Pictures would be helpful - best of luck going forward. Bill Edited July 5, 2022 by ri702bill 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #7 Posted July 5, 2022 While you have things apart, you should check the condition of 2 items. There are no bushings in the rear of the frame where the clutch shaft goes thru and out the other side - just steel on steel with no grease fitting. I machined the frame to accept bronze flanged bushings. Others have done the same using a pistol drill with good success. Definetly check the condition of the flat plate (aka the F Plate) around the 4 bolt holes to attach the Unidrive for cracking. If it is cracked, it can be repaired and reinforced. The ugly picture is from a 854 parts tractor I bought that never cut grass, only used and abused for plowing - the 502 frame with the bushings added was just fine. Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vagabond surf 5 #8 Posted July 5, 2022 Wow thank you everyone for the help and welcome. I will post more pics later today. I appreciate your time! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vagabond surf 5 #9 Posted July 5, 2022 Part #. Description. 141/3917 Bevel pinion. 142/3918. Steering pivot 143/3919. Steering arm 187/4412. Bottom steering support 188/4413. Steering sector 199/4429. Clutch rod 200/4430. Clutch pedal So far these are the parts I need, as far as I can tell. As I take it apart for painting I am sure more parts will be needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vagabond surf 5 #10 Posted July 5, 2022 Just now, Vagabond surf said: Part #. Description. 141/3917 Bevel pinion. 142/3918. Steering pivot 143/3919. Steering arm 187/4412. Bottom steering support 188/4413. Steering sector 199/4429. Clutch rod 200/4430. Clutch pedal So far these are the parts I need, as far as I can tell. As I take it apart for painting I am sure more parts will be needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #15 Posted July 5, 2022 WOW! This one looks like either it fell off a tralier and got run over by a bus or a tree fell on it. Severe damage - you need to check if the frame is either bowed os twisted. I have encountered the repaired steering arm if someone spanked a stationary object at speed and the broken lower support, but never like that - one or both of the ears break from frame twist. Your gas tank is not 502 original - it is from a 702. It takes a LOT of force to twist up a welded-in-place battery box like that. So much damage - honestly, you may wish to consider this one a parts donor and start of with a better specimen that had a less eventfull life...... Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnnymag3 2,520 #16 Posted July 5, 2022 Yikes !!!!! Holy busted up Batman !!!! ...…...Yes Robin....you might say its a Riddle as to how it ever made it out of Gotham City !!! :) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #17 Posted July 5, 2022 16 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: as to how it ever made it out of Gotham City !!! On a trailer... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,905 #18 Posted July 5, 2022 When I did my 502, I found a ‘64 frame for an updated steering system. The front axle geometry looks very similar but goes from a solid steering bar to two steering links. Way better Ackerman and steering radius. Details on the frame/front end differences here on my build thread. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,327 #19 Posted July 5, 2022 2 minutes ago, Pullstart said: I found a ‘64 frame for an updated steering system. Kevin - the 63 and later axles have cambered spindles whereas the 62 had straight up ones. Greatly improved turning circle - the 62 may turn just a tad tighter than your school bus!! And you get a chance to add adjustable tierods to correct the fixed toe-out condition.... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
