Rust-oleum IH Red

[mort 24]

A couple of quick questions regarding IH Red.....

Is there a difference between Rust-oleum (Farm and Implement) IH Red #280127 and Rust-oleum Farm Equipment IH Red #7466830 in regards to Wheel Horse matching?

Does anybody make an IH Red that is a primer and paint in one like the Rust-oleum Ultra Cover line?

Is Toro Red #36110 a better covering paint than Rust-oleum IH Red?

 

These are my last paint questions! LOL!

 

Thanks,

Mort

 

 

 

[johnnymag3 2,520]

I was never a Fan of primer and paint in one.....seems silly....Any base coat of anything before final color is primer...whether its primer or paint. Rust doesn't know that you applied Primer...its gonna rust anyways...and sometimes grey or brown primer changes the final coat cover. JM2 cents..  

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

I've been using the Rustoleum Self-Etching primer for the past couple years.  I know it's 'self etching', but I still etch first with phosporic acid because some of these things have moon craters of rust in them.  Then apply the primer.

 

I've been doing a 'wet on wet' application.  I spray the primer, usually 2 coats, with only enough time for it to flash in between coats.  Then when the primer has flashed, I do two coats of the "Regal Red" with only enough time for flashing in between coats.

 

I have not had a bad result since.  None of the extremely rusted surfaces have rusted through the new finish (yet!).

 

This method prevents the 'wrinkling' of the underlying coats.  You really need to wait a LONG time to absolutely prevent that from happening with the Rustoleum paints.  Don't believe the "72 hours" that they claim in the directions!

 

One other thing I've noticed with this 'wet on wet' method is that the Regal Red comes out just a wee tad darker than if I let the primer cure before topcoating.  And this is actually not a bad thing IMHO because the Regal Red is just a wee tad too red...  it does darken with some age though, like after a couple months.  Rustoleum takes quite a long time to completely cure to it's final hardness.

 

My experience with the IH Red is that it's just a bit too orange for my liking.  I have NOT tried it with the wet on wet application though.  Might just look great with that...

 

2 hours ago, mort said:

These are my last paint questions! LOL!

 

Wanna bet?  

Edited June 30, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Snoopy11 5,714]

3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Don't believe the "72 hours" that they claim in the directions!

AND... if you do decided to wait... put the painted parts out in the sun/rain/elements which... in my experience, helps hardening/curing...

 

Don

[Thor27 769]

@Jeff-C175 funny you mention the darkening, last set of tins i did i mixed in 2 capfulls of japan dryer in regal red and it definately got darker. Really liked the result.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

3 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

painted parts out in the sun

 

Probably some truth to that.

 

I would say that it's the heat created more than anything.  Don't know that rain would hasten the curing...

 

Supposedly, it's a 'molecular cross-linking' reaction that hardens the finish.  The SURFACE 'dries to the touch' first, but it is NOT yet cured.  It's just that the volatiles have evaporated from the paint.

 

UNDER the surface a chemical reaction continues to take place, bonding all the molecules together, and I believe it takes MONTHS to complete. 

 

HEAT certainly would accelerate the process, but TOO MUCH heat is not good either!  My garage is a solar oven with a flat black roof.  I put the smaller parts that I've painted hanging on hooks so they get the radiant heat (IR and longer wavelengths) from the roof.

 

Edited June 30, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[DougC 2,641]

I have had good results with the Regal Red then later placing the parts in direct sunlight when dry letting the U.V. rays do their thing.  

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

2 hours ago, DougC said:

the U.V. rays

 

I'm not sure if it's the UV or the IR and longer that 'does the job'.  I know IR and longer wavelengths are responsible for heating... keeps my fries warm anyway!

But even so, only TIME will allow a full cure because it's a slow chemical process.  At higher temps the process apparently takes less time, but still much longer than one would think.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 30, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[JoeM 7,874]

3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Higher temps less time

I have been putting fresh paint jobs up in the loft of my dry shed. Gets pretty warm and seem to make the process go way faster. 

[Handy Don 12,235]

8 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I've been doing a 'wet on wet' application.  I spray the primer, usually 2 coats, with only enough time for it to flash in between coats.  Then when the primer has flashed, I do two coats of the "Regal Red" with only enough time for flashing in between coats.

 

I used to do the "wait 48 hours to recoat" and then, as an experiment, tried the same "wet on wet" sequence (sometimes with one coat of primer). I've done this both with spray and brush application and, as Jeff notes, the results have so far been good. To be sure, I'm after "nice and clean" and "not "parade or museum" finishes. 

I was recently told I like "10 foot tractors" -- they look spectacular when viewed from a distance of 10'. Works for me.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I have been using Valspar IH Red and controlling the mix ratio (8oz paint, 1oz thinner and 1oz hardener) and then move my air 60 PSI. My biggest concern is Orange Peel. Getting the right pressure combined with the right distance and of course the right mixture. (Rustoleom has been compatible with Valspar) Always keep spray water & 600 grit handy for those blemishes after drying, insects, fuzz whatever! "ditto on the Sunlight" 

Edited July 1, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[rmaynard 15,509]

10 hours ago, Handy Don said:

...I'm after "nice and clean" and "not "parade or museum" finishes. 

I was recently told I like "10 foot tractors" -- they look spectacular when viewed from a distance of 10'. Works for me.

 

I spoke with a new attendee at the big show who had a perfect finish on his tractor. I just thought that his painting technique was so good that his finish did not require any tweaking. However, I found that he sands the finish coat with 1200 then 2000 grit, followed by compound and polish. 

 

Don, I think there are many 10 footers and 20 footers that look great.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

 

38 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

 

I spoke with a new attendee at the big show who had a perfect finish on his tractor. I just thought that his painting technique was so good that his finish did not require any tweaking. However, I found that he sands the finish coat with 1200 then 2000 grit, followed by compound and polish. 

 

Don, I think there are many 10 footers and 20 footers that look great.

I watched that process where as they used one compound for the 1200 grit and a second compound for 2000 grit and is was mirror finish, but these were top end sports cars and they had to match the finish.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I used to do the "wait 48 hours to recoat" and then, as an experiment, tried the same "wet on wet" sequence (sometimes with one coat of primer). I've done this both with spray and brush application and, as Jeff notes, the results have so far been good. To be sure, I'm after "nice and clean" and "not "parade or museum" finishes. 

I was recently told I like "10 foot tractors" -- they look spectacular when viewed from a distance of 10'. Works for me.

Well, I have done that wet on wet and sometimes a primer between, even urethane once the air escapes the base coat.

Edited July 1, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[kpinnc 12,083]

I use red oxide primer. I have one tractor that is now past 20 years since repainting, and the rust has never come back. While the parts were cleaned, they weren't blasted clean by any measure. Still no problems with rust coming back.

 

Just remember that paint is just the last shiny, pretty part. A successful restore is all about prep. For me (some will not agree), metal contact is 100% rust killing primer. Fill and glaze is after. If sanding reveals metal, then prime it again and wet sand. Take your time, and however you decide to apply coats, stick to it. 

 

Even in NC humidity, none of my paint ever failed. Rust-Oleum, Valspar, or automotive finishes. I've used all of them over red oxide primer, and I am a believer. 

Edited July 4, 2022 by kpinnc