Drive pulley keeps spinning, causing gear grinding

[Handy Don 12,444]

33 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

Didn't mention the clearance for the drive belt

Understood and agree. I don't think I've seen in manuals for my tractors a spec for clearance at the friction tabs/guides.

I've always been surprised, though, at the cleverness of the clutch idler guide--it is well clear of the belt when the clutch is engaged but gives good friction when it "rolls" forward with disengagement.

Noted earlier, usefully, is that the idler is on the "return" side of the belt loop while the belt cover's tab touches the "pull" side of the belt loop's counter-clockwise rotation right at the engine pulley.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,564]

Okay so took off the belt guard and the pressure tab on the idler pulley I thought I would be able to adjust is welded in place.   Was going to loosen the nut tilt the tab forward more to create more down pressure but it doesn't seem I can do that.  Any suggestions?  It is a Wheel Horse belt on it. 

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,564]

better pic with pulley removed.  Is this factory?  I'm thinking of grinding the weld off and realigning the tab.  Is welding down in addition to the lock nut they way to go so it doesn't move?

 

[wallfish 17,078]

You shouldn't need to cut the weld. What you need is the arm to move a little more forward and that will accomplish the belt stop. Some tractors allow for that tab to adjust but apparently yours doesn't. If that's a single pedal tractor, then loosen the nut at the brake band. That will allow the arm to move farther forward and therefore that tab should touch the belt. If the pedal moves too far forward after doing that you can adjust the pedal back with the rod that attaches to the pedal.

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,564]

1 minute ago, wallfish said:

You shouldn't need to cut the weld. What you need is the arm to move a little more forward and that will accomplish the belt stop. Some tractors allow for that tab to adjust but apparently yours doesn't. If that's a single pedal tractor, then loosen the nut at the brake band. That will allow the arm to move farther forward and therefore that tab should touch the belt. If the pedal moves too far forward after doing that you can adjust the pedal back with the rod that attaches to the pedal.

 

 

It's not a single pedal.  There is also a bolt stopper on the idler pulley side to prevent over travel.  There seems to be no adjustment other than this welded tab.  I may just make another guide tab tab to go over the old one and lock it down ahead of the other one a little.  Seems like there's plenty of room to do it.  Then weld it in if it moves. 

[wallfish 17,078]

1 minute ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

There is also a bolt stopper on the idler pulley side to prevent over travel

Does it hit that stopper at full depression of the pedal? Is that stopper adjustable?

Adding another tab wouldn't hurt anything but don't leave the edge that touches the belt sharp. Bend it up a little or grind a curved edge so it can't dig into the belt.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,564]

17 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Does it hit that stopper at full depression of the pedal? Is that stopper adjustable?

Adding another tab wouldn't hurt anything but don't leave the edge that touches the belt sharp. Bend it up a little or grind a curved edge so it can't dig into the belt.

 

Yes it hits at full depression, not adjustable.  I've got some extra metal so I'll see if adding another tab does the trick.  I'll smooth all edges.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,564]

okay I think we have a win here.  Made another tab to fit over the welded one and have it angled forward more and it seems to have done the trick.  It stops the spinning and I don't have any more clunking noises either.  Tightening the nut seemed to lock it in fine against the original one.  It didn't seem to want to move at all so I don't think welding it in is warranted at this point. 

 

Also figured out that rod from the clutch pedal adjust the tension on the belt when it's driving.  So making it tighter might take up some slack as the belt wears and stretches a little over time.  It has nothing to do with the down pressure on the belt when clutch pedal is pressed down.  The exact opposite actually.  Hope that maybe helps someone.  But this one looks like we have a fix.  I'll update if something changes or a weld is needed after all. 

 

thanks for the help!

 

[Blasterdad 2,717]

Try bending the tab down closer to the belt first, there should only be enough room to barely get the belt on the pulley, someone might have bent the tab up when replacing the belt at some point...