New Pole Barn shop/garage/dojo building!!

[ebinmaine 67,569]

Well folks. 

Here we go. 

 

Trina and I have signed on to put up a nice new 44 wide x 40 deep building. 

 

Front. Sliding rolling doors open away from each other. 

 

 

Rear. Single Sliding rolling door opens right to left. 

 

 

Right side. (faces house). Lower floor level will be divided in 2 at the request of the insurance company. 20' vehicle garage at the front. 20' shop space at the back. Solid fire rated wall between. 

3'-0" door going to each space. No windows except those in doors. Wood storage or vehicle storage under 10' shed roof. 

 

 

Left side. No doors, no windows. Wood storage or vehicle storage under 10' shed roof. 

 

Downward view. Front to the right. 

 

 

 

 

 

WOOOOOHOOOOOO !!! 

 

Please do feel free to put forth suggestions, things you wish you'd done, etc...

 

There will be NO insulation, electric, water installed ... For now.  

[kwalshy 229]

Congratulations! 

 

I like the gambrel roof design very much.  And i like the side shed roofs for storage too, especially the firewood!

 

My 2 cents, ensure your subbase is done well with compacted material and a vapor barrier is placed between subbase & concrete.  I also recommend adding wire mesh.  Ensure you know what psi concrete you're getting and proper saw cuts are made to control the cracks.  Concrete will crack so those saw cuts are important for expansion/contraction.  Any floor drains in your future plans?  Install some conduit sweeps before the concrete pour so you can run your electric and water in the future.

 

I noticed you have 2 man doors in the sketch, yet the notes indicate 1 - 6'8"x36" door.

 

just out of curiosity: How is the builder venting your roof?  

[ri702bill 8,327]

Excellent! What are you doing for a floor? I ask because if you are going with a poured concrete slab, you may wish to rough-in any underground services before it's poured - even if it just empty capped conduits for now. Not being a "living space" you still have an insufficient amount of windows - if you plan on setting up a good ventilated paintshop work area for BFFT, you need two - one for air in, the other for a 20" boxfan on the opposite end for fume exhaust. Are you open to the idea of fixed skylights?

Excellent design, including the 2 open carport type sheds. (not allowed anymore in my town - must be fully enclosed so the Town can tax it as a "Garage"...) Is the pitch on those sufficient so snow will not build up?? Looks like they will get the entire snow load off the Gambrel roof. How about a compound pitch - 8 feet high in the front, going to 7 feet in the rear??

Edited June 18, 2022 by ri702bill

[pacer 3,173]

OK, couple things come to mind..... (By the way that will be a SWEEET building!!)

 

Lectrics--- I had a 24x30 Pole barn done and I bit the bullet (after the cost of the building - yow, that hurt!) and I had a 110v outlet every 4' at 4' height and also two 220v on each wall. Never regretted that!!

 

Next, keep in mind the eventual routing of compressor piping, that was another thing I was REALLY glad I had did.

[SylvanLakeWH 25,596]

 

Enjoy!!!

[roadapples 6,983]

Excellent... But...I love the look of wood but I  would go with metal siding. A mouse can't even get in my garage, and "no" maintenance. I put wood siding on my house and can't keep carpenter bees out...

[JoeM 7,874]

One thing to do, take a piece of graph paper and layout the floor plan of any items you are thinking about installing or placing into the building. like workbenches, machinery, autos etc. It does help to insure a pathway. 

I know on my sons building, the designer specified the vertical post to have a standoff that allows the concrete to go under and around the posts. My son had somewhat sand soil.

[Achto 27,597]

Looks Awesome!!! Congratulations 

 

The only complaint that I have with my 20' deep garage is that a full size truck will not fit very well. When I had my '67 Chev long box I had to put the rear bumper tight against the rear wall. To close the over head door  I had to pull out on the grab handle of the door to clear the front bumper. 

[ebinmaine 67,569]

Excellent suggestions so far folks!

 

Keep em coming.  

 

Here's a video of moving day. 

😂

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,569]

 

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,324]

Super jealous! 
 Congrats on the new building

[rjg854 11,378]

How tall are the 2 sliding doors on the front of the barn? According to your drawing, they won't open far enough because of the overhangs. I'm thinking that the drawing isn't to scale. 

[roadapples 6,983]

Don't mean to be picky, but aren't sliding doors hard to seal up...

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,330]

Very happy for you. I would agree with what everyone said in terms of planning what needs to go below slab. I put radiant tubing and insulation under the work area in my barn. I have not hooked it up but it is there. I will hook it up at some point during my retirement years when I plan on spending more time in there during the winters. 
good luck!!

[Rob J. 1,942]

8 hours ago, roadapples said:

Excellent... But...I love the look of wood but I  would go with metal siding. A mouse can't even get in my garage, and "no" maintenance. I put wood siding on my house and can't keep carpenter bees out...

Correct, wood siding while it does look nicer it’s so much more maintenance. 

[Rob J. 1,942]

Maybe for the side entry doors making them a French door style setup so you can get big things in or out without opening the big doors in wintertime.?.? And still use one as a regular entry door.?.?

[Rob J. 1,942]

1 hour ago, roadapples said:

Don't mean to be picky, but aren't sliding doors hard to seal up...

He could frame the end in and put a regular 9’x8’ insulated garage door on the inside and retain the slider for quick summer access. A buddy of mine has the slider and his seals up pretty good. Just have to pay attention to detail to get it sealed good. 

[Rob J. 1,942]

It’s gonna be nice. A lot of work but well worth it in the end. 

Edited June 19, 2022 by Rob J.

[ebinmaine 67,569]

20 hours ago, kwalshy said:

 subbase is done well with compacted material. 

vapor barrier is placed between subbase & concrete.

wire mesh. 

 psi concrete 

saw cuts are made to control the cracks. 

 floor drains 

 Install some conduit sweeps for electric and water .

 

I noticed you have 2 man doors in the sketch, yet the notes indicate 1 - 6'8"x36" door.

 

just out of curiosity: How is the builder venting your roof?  

In order of above:

Sub base (3'- 4' depth) will be all new fill, to code, even though we don't have to follow code because it will not be living space or have a foundation. 

The whole area will be compacted used road building grade machines. 

Vapor barriers are not normal to this area. There's very limited evaporation overall and the site is being chosen in large part because there are no known underground streams or springs. (There's a lot of those here).  We may still request to have one. 

I remember asking the builder about the concrete but I don't recall the specifics. 

PSI was satisfactory. 

I'll check on the reinforcement. 

There are NO drains needed here on the mountainside. 

The new building will be 24" minimum above the next lowest ground level. 

 

There is no plan to run permanent water supply to this building. Ever.

To do so... We'd need a 4'+ ditch 60 to 80 ft long AND professional installation AND it has to be inspected during process. Remember the mountains. Boulders. Ditches are a serious issue here.  That's thousands we don't want to spend.

 

Original design has been edited to add one door and move the other. Good catch. 

This building will be just a shell... For now. No insulation. No vents. No heat. 

 

@ri702bill

See above about the floor. 

Good catch on the windows. 

What the drawing shows is the minimum amount of window for the plans sent to the bank. We'll be adding more on cash basis as the building is put up. 

The roof valleys where the shed roofs meet the lower gambrel will likely hold some snow, yes. That's fine until it gets about 4' deep. Snow load codes on trusses up here are HEAVY. When/IIFF the snow ever gets that deep we'll pull it down with our roof rake we used to use for the house when we had asphalt shingles. 

 

@pacer excellent points!

 

17 hours ago, roadapples said:

I love the look of wood but I  would go with metal siding

We thought the same and researched metal buildings. 

WAY too expensive in this area. The build would have been far out of budget. Almost no metal buildings in Maine except commercial and farming. 

We do have ants and treat for them successfully. 

No issues with bees here. 

9 hours ago, roadapples said:

Don't mean to be picky, but aren't sliding doors hard to seal up...

We WANT you to be picky. 😀

You folks bring up things Trina and I want to catch beforehand. 

Sliding doors are ok to seal up IIFF they're built right and the correct hardware is used. 

 

11 hours ago, JoeM said:

take a piece of graph paper and layout the floor plan of any items you are thinking about installing or placing into the building. like workbenches, machinery, autos etc. 

 specified the vertical post to have a standoff

Layout is a serious consideration in the metal shop area. (Back of the first floor). Space will be adequate only if carefully planned. 

Vehicle garage area will be ONLY that, with some smaller things. 

I like that standoff idea...

 

11 hours ago, Achto said:

20' deep garage is that a full size truck will not fit very well

We wanted the look of the side rollers anyway but your experience is  another reason we didn't go with roll up doors. 

Side sliding doors are on the OUTSIDE of the building so they take advantage of the full size. No loss of space to internally mounted door hanging system.  

I measured my '86 Ford F250 yesterday. It'll fit in a 19' space. Not much room to work at the ends of it but that's ok.. I've been considering moving the inside dividing wall toward the garage freeing up shop space. 

 

10 hours ago, rjg854 said:

How tall are the 2 sliding doors on the front of the barn? According to your drawing, they won't open far enough because of the overhangs. I'm thinking that the drawing isn't to scale. 

 

The side rolling doors will open in front of the shed roof openings on each side.  That's a bit odd to some folks but we wanted the extra wide garage door opening.  

 

9 hours ago, stevebo said:

Very happy for you. I would agree with what everyone said in terms of planning what needs to go below slab. I put radiant tubing and insulation under the work area in my barn. I have not hooked it up but it is there. I will hook it up at some point during my retirement years when I plan on spending more time in there during the winters. 
good luck!!

Thanks Steve!!

We thought about doing a below slab heat system but it's a huge expense even for the piping alone. 

After consulting a few HVAC techs we decided it isn't likely we would ever use it anyway. The fluid would have to be kept moving 3 to 5 months a year here... or completely drained until used. 

We do have plans to install wood stoves in the lower shop (back of building) and upstairs. 

 

8 hours ago, Rob J. said:

Maybe for the side entry doors making them a French door style setup so you can get big things in or out without opening the big doors in wintertime.?.? And still use one as a regular entry door.?.?

The side doors as they appear can't be combined to a single opening because the insurance company is requesting that the front and back of the building be separate spaces. 

However...

I do like the idea of a much larger opening in the shop space (rear of building) because if the truck is in the rear bay that door will be a bugger to get a tractor through.  

 

 

Excellent ideas folks!!!

 

Keep the thoughts coming up! 

[JoeM 7,874]

EB sounds like you are putting a lot of thought into it, great! 

 

That water line thing could be put in later. I don't use water in the winter so mine is not so deep and I drain it at the end of fall. I do like it in the summer for watering the plants and washing hands and an occasional pressure washer use.

 

If i could (don't want to divert the thread) share an idea i used on my son's DIY Pole building.

By the way I still have those lifting brackets if someone wants to buy them. 

We used angle brackets lagged into the posts and boat winches to hoist the 12x30 roof sections. It allowed the sections to be built on the rim board an hoisted up into a notch on the poll. it went well and looking back I would have even installed the metal on the ground. 

 

Testing with 400 lbs of suitcase weight for the WH. of course.

 

I think the kid tried to kill me on this job. 

 

[wallfish 17,011]

28 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I measured my '86 Ford F250 yesterday. It'll fit in a 19' space. Not much room to work at the ends of it but that's ok.. I've been considering moving the inside dividing wall toward the garage freeing up shop space

That center wall doesn't necessarily need to be straight across and can adjust to fit a truck comfortably but not loose shop space on the other side. You may loose shop on one side but gain it back on the other. Adjust dimensions of the Z to accommodate your needs.

[ebinmaine 67,569]

18 minutes ago, JoeM said:

I don't use water in the winter so mine is not so deep and I drain it at the end of fall. I do like it in the summer for

 

washing hands

 

washing parts

 

occasional pressure washer use

 

That's what we'd use it for as well. 

Run a hose off a splitter from the house around May 1st to November 1st. ((??)). 

[Rob J. 1,942]

3 minutes ago, wallfish said:

That center wall doesn't necessarily need to be straight across and can adjust to fit a truck comfortably but not loose shop space on the other side. You may loose shop on one side but gain it back on the other. Adjust dimensions of the Z to accommodate your needs.

I’d put the wall up long enough for the insurance guy to do his thing.😉 

[ebinmaine 67,569]

2 minutes ago, wallfish said:

 

You're headed the right way there John. 

The left above is vehicle only for parking only. 

The right above as stated is shop. 

The truck won't be permanently parked inside this building. 

I'd put the Z opposite to the way you have it with the truck space (ONLY while being worked on) in the shop bay. 

 

 

4 minutes ago, Rob J. said:

I’d put the wall up long enough for the insurance guy to do his thing.😉 

In principle I like this idea. 

But...

There's no physical insurance company inspection. There will be many pictures required  documenting the setup. 

The wall will be a permanently mounted fire rated wall and can't be removed for State Fire Codes. 

Because of that ^^^^^ the wall is also required by the financial institution to keep the mortgage in place if we want to use a solid fuel or open flame heater.  

 

If there's ever a claim it wouldn't go well without proper codes being followed. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

Congrats on the shop Eric!  Sounds like lots of good things to consider but any way it goes that'll be a great addition.  I'll just sit back and enjoy the updates!