davem1111 2,036 #1 Posted June 16, 2022 I'm a bit puzzled about this. I recently blew the bearings on this tractor's drive idler pulley, so I ordered a new one. Got the right one, and bought a new belt because the old one was shot. Now it starts to slip under load - I can tell because if I look down, the hydro cooling fan is turning very slowly. Have to let up on it till it spins up, go a little bit, then repeat the process. Anyone ever have to buy an undersized belt for one of these? I can't think of why else it would be doing this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,310 #2 Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) What size belt? How bout some pics? Also Make sure the belt matches the package it came in. Edited June 16, 2022 by squonk 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #3 Posted June 16, 2022 1 minute ago, squonk said: belt matches the package it came in Especially if you get them at TSC where the pubic is able to mess around with them. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,310 #4 Posted June 16, 2022 Should be a 5/8" wide belt. If you got a 1/2" wide belt it's going to slip 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #5 Posted June 16, 2022 31 minutes ago, squonk said: Should be a 5/8" wide belt. If you got a 1/2" wide belt it's going to slip Yep, 5/8". It's a Jason Industrial MXV5-830, 5/8" x 83". Bought it last week so I'm not 100% sure the trail I followed, but I think they had a book at Rural King and I looked it up, to match the WH part number. 37 minutes ago, squonk said: What size belt? How bout some pics? Also Make sure the belt matches the package it came in. I'll probably end up taking the side guards off again this weekend and will take some pictures then. After getting the flat parts of the yard mowed... 35 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Especially if you get them at TSC where the pubic is able to mess around with them. People were probably messing with them at Rural King too, but I had taken the old one with me and compared the length -seemed the same. There doesn't seem to be a proper amount of tension on the idler, so I'm thinking maybe an 82" would work better. I don't think 1" difference in length should make it too tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #6 Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) Duh.... this website says it should be 82": https://www.vbeltguys.com/products/toro-wheel-horse-d1-184801-gt-1848-riding-lawn-mower-replacement-belt Edit to add: But the WH part number is 108502. Here it says it's 83": https://www.amazon.com/PowerDrive-108502-Kevlar-Replacement-Number/dp/B00NX4OHFO Edited June 16, 2022 by davem1111 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #7 Posted June 16, 2022 10 minutes ago, davem1111 said: 1" difference I wonder if the spring on the idler arm has gone soft? 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #8 Posted June 16, 2022 8 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I wonder if the spring on the idler arm has gone soft? Maybe, but the disengage handle is pretty hard to pull up. I'm going to buy an 82" and see what that does, I think. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,310 #9 Posted June 16, 2022 Napa Gates cross is 5L830W so 5/8 x 83" is correct Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #10 Posted June 16, 2022 33 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I wonder if the spring on the idler arm has gone soft? Precisely my thought... Don 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,744 #11 Posted June 16, 2022 Did you get the belt on the correct side of all the belt guides? 5/8 X 83 is correct. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #12 Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: Did you get the belt on the correct side of all the belt guides? 5/8 X 83 is correct. it goes around the pto pulley and around the hydro pulley with the fan, and the top goes under the idler. 3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: I wonder if the spring on the idler arm has gone soft? I suppose that could at least be part of the problem, but if so, wouldn't the disengage handle come up when the spring released too much tension? It's going all the way down flush against the shifter cover plate when sitting still. I'll have to try it again tomorrow or this weekend, and make sure I look at that when it's happening. I did stop by Rural King and buy an 82" belt, but they didn't have the better quality one in that size so I got the cheap one. So no big loss if I don't need to switch to that, and I can return it if I don't actually use it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,744 #13 Posted June 17, 2022 9 hours ago, davem1111 said: it goes around the pto pulley and around the hydro pulley with the fan, and the top goes under the idler. I was thinking more about the guide tabs that keep the slack belt from coming off your pulleys and the long belt guide rail that catches the bottom slack. This rail may be a part of your belt guard and you need to pay attention as it is installed. I find it helpfull to have tension on the belt when placing the belt guard. This photo from @daveoman1966 shows the rail. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #14 Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: I was thinking more about the guide tabs that keep the slack belt from coming off your pulleys and the long belt guide rail that catches the bottom slack. This rail may be a part of your belt guard and you need to pay attention as it is installed. I find it helpfull to have tension on the belt when placing the belt guard. This photo from @daveoman1966 shows the rail. If I remember correctly, the bottom run of the belt does rest on that guide when slack and comes up off it just a bit when tensioned. There is another much shorter guide for the top run of the belt, and I think it goes under it but will have to take the side cover off again to look and get some pictures. Are those guides movable? Should the belt be in contact with the guide when running and taut? It seem like that would induce excessive wear to both the guide and the belt. It also occurred to me that one could fabricate some similar tabs to go outside the belt if it hops off frequently, but that would make extra work when trying to change the belt unless they were designed to just flip out of the way. I'm wondering if the pulleys could have enough wear in the groove to cause the 83" belt to just be too long. So this weekend I will check all that out, including the spring and the guides, and maybe see what happens with the 82" belt. Thanks, everyone. BTW, I ran this briefly with the recently repaired 48" deck, and it mowed beautifully, other issues aside. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,081 #15 Posted June 17, 2022 Is this the Honda swap tractor Dave? It could be the centerline of the crank isn’t perfectly in the right spot, requiring some tweaks to the belt specs? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,774 #16 Posted June 17, 2022 3 hours ago, Pullstart said: Is this the Honda swap tractor Dave? It could be the centerline of the crank isn’t perfectly in the right spot, requiring some tweaks to the belt specs? Most newer engines need to be raised 3/4 to 7/8" even if the PTO shaft is in the right location from front to back. That tractor had a Briggs engine and it was different from the Kohler's I don't know what was different but it used a different belt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #17 Posted June 17, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Pullstart said: Is this the Honda swap tractor Dave? It could be the centerline of the crank isn’t perfectly in the right spot, requiring some tweaks to the belt specs? 12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: Most newer engines need to be raised 3/4 to 7/8" even if the PTO shaft is in the right location from front to back. That tractor had a Briggs engine and it was different from the Kohler's I don't know what was different but it used a different belt. I suspect now that this is the problem. It's got a Honda GX630 (I think) on it. I put an 82" belt on it. When I messed with the idler spring the bent part at the top broke off so I ended up shortening it a bit, so the tension is a bit better. She seems to be doing a lot better now. Will be mowing with it a lot tomorrow after it cools off a bit. Edited June 17, 2022 by davem1111 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,081 #18 Posted June 17, 2022 If that 82” belt does the trick, under the hood or the belt guard are perfect places to make a note of that 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,036 #19 Posted June 19, 2022 On 6/17/2022 at 6:12 PM, Pullstart said: If that 82” belt does the trick, under the hood or the belt guard are perfect places to make a note of that Excellent idea! I suspect you've encountered situations like this before... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,081 #20 Posted June 19, 2022 2 minutes ago, davem1111 said: Excellent idea! I suspect you've encountered situations like this before... Based on my findings on a few survivors I’ve come across, plenty of good ‘ole boys have done it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,310 #21 Posted June 20, 2022 Since this isn't the original engine, all bets are off on what the right belt will be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites