TJ5208 1,824 #1 Posted June 16, 2022 My 520-8 doesn't have any spark I put a new coil on it still does not make a difference does this look right could it be the electronic ignition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #2 Posted June 16, 2022 Are it two the same sparkplugs? Are the sparkplugs still working? Does the coil get power? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #3 Posted June 16, 2022 37 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said: I see what looks like a brand new condenser. Does this tractor have points or a CDI box? Just not used to seeing a condenser with a CDI ignition. Are you getting power to the "+" side of the coil with the key ON? Are all of your safety switches still intact and working? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,296 #4 Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, Achto said: condenser. Unhook that sucker and see what you have. Edited June 17, 2022 by 953 nut 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #5 Posted June 17, 2022 (edited) It will only run with a wire on the positive on the battery and on the coil. What would cause that. Could it be the ignition switch. What ignition switch would i need. Edited June 17, 2022 by TJ Salyers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #6 Posted June 17, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, TJ Salyers said: Could it be the ignition switch. What ignition switch would i need. Lets not throw more parts at it until we know what the issue is. 1 - Is your seat switch working properly? 2 - Is your PTO switch working properly? Either one of these switches will kill power to the ignition if they are not working properly. 3 -Was there a rectifier on the tractor before you changed the coil? I'm going to guess that you have power at the red wire on the key switch because you can crank the engine over. Disconnect the wire from the "+" side off the coil and isolate it, so that you don't chance burning up the coil. ( For these tests you will have to probe all of the connectors from the back to check for power. If you unplug them you will not have power ) Following the diagram. 1 - With the key switch "ON", do you have power from the yellow wire on the switch to the PTO switch? (leave the key switch on & continue to the next steps) 2 - With the PTO switch in the "OFF" position, do you have power at the orange wire? 3 - With the PTO switch in the "ON" position do you have power at the brown wire? 4 - Do you now have power at the brown wire on the seat switch? 5 - Push the seat switch down. Do you now have power at the yellow wire on the seat switch? 6 - The orange wire from the PTO & the yellow wire from the seat switch go to the 9 pin connector for the engine. Are you getting power in and out of the 9 pin connector where these wires go? 7 - Do you now have power at the yellow for the "+" side of the coil? Run through all of the above checks to find out why you are not getting power to the coil. Edited June 17, 2022 by Achto 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #7 Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, Achto said: Lets not throw more parts at it until we know what the issue is. 1 - Is your seat switch working properly? 2 - Is your PTO switch working properly? Either one of these switches will kill power to the ignition if they are not working properly. 3 -Was there a rectifier on the tractor before you changed the coil? I'm going to guess that you have power at the red wire on the key switch because you can crank the engine over. Disconnect the wire from the "+" side off the coil and isolate it, so that you don't chance burning up the coil. ( For these tests you will have to probe all of the connectors from the back to check for power. If you unplug them you will not have power ) Following the diagram. 1 - With the key switch "ON", do you have power from the yellow wire on the switch to the PTO switch? (leave the key switch on & continue to the next steps) 2 - With the PTO switch in the "OFF" position, do you have power at the orange wire? 3 - With the PTO switch in the "ON" position do you have power at the brown wire? 4 - Do you now have power at the brown wire on the seat switch? 5 - Push the seat switch down. Do you now have power at the yellow wire on the seat switch? 6 - The orange wire from the PTO & the yellow wire from the seat switch go to the 9 pin connector for the engine. Are you getting power in and out of the 9 pin connector where these wires go? 7 - Do you now have power at the yellow for the "+" side of the coil? Run through all of the above checks to find out why you are not getting power to the coil. How would i turn the PTO switch on and off by moving the handle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #8 Posted June 17, 2022 10 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said: How would i turn the PTO switch on and off by moving the handle. Correct, PTO engaged = switch on. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #9 Posted June 17, 2022 2 minutes ago, Achto said: Correct, PTO engaged = switch on. I had to put a wire around the switch because when I engage the PTO it stalled the tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #10 Posted June 17, 2022 20 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said: I had to put a wire around the switch because when I engage the PTO it stalled the tractor. If you had jump around the PTO switch then that would have told me that the seat switch was bad. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #11 Posted June 17, 2022 4 hours ago, Achto said: If you had jump around the PTO switch then that would have told me that the seat switch was bad. So thats the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #12 Posted June 17, 2022 11 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said: So thats the problem. Preform all of the tests that I listed and figure out where the voltage is stopping. This way we are not throwing darts blind folded. For future reference if the engine stops when you engage the PTO, the first place to look is at the seat switch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #13 Posted June 17, 2022 2 minutes ago, Achto said: Preform all of the tests that I listed and figure out where the voltage is stopping. This way we are not throwing darts blind folded. For future reference if the engine stops when you engage the PTO, the first place to look is at the seat switch. So it could possibly be the seat switch. 20220617_141941.mp4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,296 #14 Posted June 18, 2022 Your seat switch is supposed to turn off the engine if the PTO is on and the operator leaves the seat, with the PTO off (handle pulled back) the seat switch just sits there and does nothing. You can test each step as Dan suggested or waste money on parts you don't need, your choice. If you understand how the wiring is supposed to work you will find it a bit easier to correct the problem you're encountering. Take a look at these two wiring diagrams. The first one shows the PTO OFF, seat switch isn't in the picture because it isn't doing anything. The second drawing has the PTO ON and the seat switch closed because the operator is in the seat. Not shown is if the operator leaves the seat the seat switch will OPEN which has the same effect on the ignition as turning off the key because the PTO switch is also open in this configuration. You say the engine will have spark if you run a jumper to the coil +, did the started turn over from the key switch? My suggestion would be to clean and tighten ALL of the electrical connections shown in these diagrams, any loose or corroded connection between the battery and the ignition coil could be culprit, CLEAN THEM ALL! Also inspect the wires to be sure they aren't chafed or in bad condition. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #15 Posted June 18, 2022 3 hours ago, 953 nut said: You say the engine will have spark if you run a jumper to the coil +, did the started turn over from the key switch? Would it hurt anything to run it that way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,600 #16 Posted June 18, 2022 1 hour ago, TJ Salyers said: Would it hurt anything to run it that way. It will not hurt it to run it with a "+" wire running to the coil. It's just a PITA to hook up the wire to run it and disconnect the wire to shut it off. Never leave the wire on the coil when the tractor is not running, it will damage the coil. Would be much better to fix the issue correctly instead of turning your tractor in to a "shoe man" special. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #17 Posted June 18, 2022 2 hours ago, TJ Salyers said: Would it hurt anything to run it that way. Of course you would be bypassing all safety systems. Simply fix the circuit, the schematic in post #14 shows the components involved. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,296 #18 Posted June 18, 2022 I know that you are young and eager to get the tractor going but if you don't take the time to do the job right when we are offering you all this information on a silver platter what makes you think we will be there for you next time. Please make it a practice to do the job right the first time or bad habits will take over your life. You are learning a lot of skills here and we would like to see you develop good job related habits too. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #19 Posted July 15, 2022 I now have voltage at the coil but i'm getting 12 volts at the coil. What would cause that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #20 Posted July 15, 2022 37 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said: I now have voltage at the coil but i'm getting 12 volts at the coil. What would cause that? Need a clearer explanation. Pictures would help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #21 Posted July 15, 2022 (edited) I'm getting 12 volts on the negative on the coil. And 12 volts on the plus side. Edited July 15, 2022 by TJ Salyers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,296 #22 Posted July 15, 2022 Is this is on the 520 with an Onan engine. Could be the wire that goes from the coil negative side is not connected to the Ignition Triger device or the Ignition Trigger is bad. You have been using a jumper to the coil from the battery to run your engine. If you left the jumper wire from the battery to your ignition trigger without the engine running you may have burned it up. These electronic devices are not as forgiving as a set of points that can be honed and used again. Check out page 25 of the Onan Manual for testing procedures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TJ5208 1,824 #23 Posted July 16, 2022 12 hours ago, 953 nut said: Is this is on the 520 with an Onan engine. Could be the wire that goes from the coil negative side is not connected to the Ignition Triger device or the Ignition Trigger is bad. You have been using a jumper to the coil from the battery to run your engine. If you left the jumper wire from the battery to your ignition trigger without the engine running you may have burned it up. These electronic devices are not as forgiving as a set of points that can be honed and used again. Check out page 25 of the Onan Manual for testing procedures. I never leave it plugged up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,296 #24 Posted July 16, 2022 10 hours ago, TJ Salyers said: I never leave it plugged up. I didn't intend to make it sound like an accusation, just on of may things to check. 10 hours ago, TJ Salyers said: Could be the wire that goes from the coil negative side is not connected to the Ignition Triger device or the Ignition Trigger is bad. Check out page 25 of the Onan Manual for testing procedures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites