peter lena 8,625 #1 Posted June 16, 2022 ever considered using steel brake line for the majority of your fuel line set up ? with a simple hand tube bender you can reroute .or duplicate all but the start and finish of your fuel run . you could easily set up a vertical carb , check valve spot , just before carb , if you wanted to . just a clear foot of vinyl fuel rated hose , with dark green spring clamps , to tank and carb , could possibly help you out . only an idea, don't be afraid to try something , greasy , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,571 #2 Posted June 16, 2022 18 minutes ago, peter lena said: ever considered using steel brake line for the majority of your fuel line set up ? I used 1/4" soft copper line on one of my tractors. Easy to work with, won't rust, all connections made with compression fittings. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,484 #3 Posted June 16, 2022 3 minutes ago, Achto said: I used 1/4" soft copper line on one of my tractors. Easy to work with, won't rust, all connections made with compression fittings. I thought about doing that very same thing but my research online indicated that it was not the best idea for a fuel line because copper can be brittle. Obviously with the low fuel pressures we run ...it wouldn't be anywhere near as much of an issue as even stronger carbureted vehicular setup. Dan, was this on a Horse? Still running okay? How long has it been? Did you put any tension relief coils like we used to do on the oil pressure hard lines? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 429 #4 Posted June 16, 2022 My T1267 has a steel line from the fuel pump to the carb. I think it was original equipment. Compression gaskets on both ends. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,571 #5 Posted June 16, 2022 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Dan, was this on a Horse? Still running okay? How long has it been? Did you put any tension relief coils like we used to do on the oil pressure hard lines? Yes it is on a horse. Been on there since 2016 with no issues. I did not use any relief coils, but did leave some slack in the bends. I've seen copper used on many farm tractors that have been in service since before I was even thought of. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,458 #6 Posted June 16, 2022 The original steel tubes from the fuel pump to the carburetor were installed using Parker-Hannifin anti-vibration fittings. They were like compression but used a rubber compression ring to hold the tube and absorb vibrations from the engine which were causing leaks. The steel tube connections were superceded by flexible fuel lines. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #7 Posted June 16, 2022 used a piece on a electric pump install makes for a neat set up. I did a bubble flare on the hose end going to carb. Kind of like a incomplete double. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #8 Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) The Citroen cars with the hydraulic systems, suspension, brakes, steering, etc used metal pipes which have ends with a small barrel like swage, also a short rubber tube seal which actually sealed more as the pressure in the circuit increased. On my cars, I replace the brake lines with ‘Kunifer’, brand pipe, which is, I think, a copper/nickel alloy? Very easy to work with and doesn’t seem to work harden like copper pipe! I still have the tool for forming the ends somewhere.(Citroen lines). Doug. Edited June 16, 2022 by ranger 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,856 #9 Posted June 16, 2022 29 minutes ago, ranger said: copper/nickel I have a truck with that type of brake lines. It’s supposed to resist corrosion from our dreaded road salt. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ranger 1,750 #10 Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) 33 minutes ago, Pullstart said: I have a truck with that type of brake lines. It’s supposed to resist corrosion from our dreaded road salt. It appears to last forever🤞The main problem I’ve found is, if you use steel nuts, and they rust, you can twist the end off the pipe. I’m sure @peter lena will have something in his arsenal, (copper slip?) to prevent this. Over here brake lines are 3/16””, but 1/4” is readily available! More expensive than copper, 💰 but much stronger.🏋️ Edited June 16, 2022 by ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,625 #11 Posted June 16, 2022 @ranger hello , thanks for the shout out, not being on a road car , would not think a regular look see , will let you know how its doing, my lubricant arsenal , is pretty scary , like a chain and cable spray , for solid metal protection , my best is lubriplate , open gear lubricant , basically a 680 wt gear oil . never had anything touch it . use this same set up on my cars , zero rust or rot , amazing metal penetration / protection . been using for years . hope its good with you , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
