"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #1 Posted June 14, 2022 (edited) I went with a voltmeter as the hole was already made by prior owner Checking for clearance to use the manual PTO Everything is coming together Everything aligns nicely A little custom fitting Had a set of tractor lamps might as well use them, don't like them mounted on the hood but couldn't find another bracket for the frame Vintage old school brackets Found a set of tapered wedges to bring them up some but not perfectly level. Left decal had debate over the direction of the angled end Settled on the angel towards the front as a majority of 800 Specials had them so View from toolbox Left hood stand Right hood stand Decal and later taillight All buttoned up Edited June 14, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic" 6 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,625 #2 Posted June 14, 2022 @Manicmacanic question , did you put any hi temp grease in the pto cone , needle bearing ? bearing under quite a hot loading process. the higher the grease flash point the quieter the bearing , because the grease will stay with it . that also refers to whining mower deck and mule drive bearings . build going along well , pete 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #3 Posted June 14, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, peter lena said: @Manicmacanic question , did you put any hi temp grease in the pto cone , needle bearing ? bearing under quite a hot loading process. the higher the grease flash point the quieter the bearing , because the grease will stay with it . that also refers to whining mower deck and mule drive bearings . build going along well , pete I can always depend on you mentioning High Temp Grease! Thanks' Edited June 14, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,217 #4 Posted June 14, 2022 I decided to add a new digital voltmeter to the original, 58 year old ammeter in a custom dash. Voltmeter is wired to the Ignition contact on the switch so I can see the battery charge state just by switching on (and yes, the coil is drawing power then unless the points happen to be open). It seems to average out its input every two seconds so the display is smooth (below 10 volts, the little white dot flashes red as a warning). I cross-checked it with a good DVOM and it's accurate, too. At WOT the ammeter needle jumps around in the 0-15 amp "charge" territory, but the voltmeter is a steady 14.5 vdc. I am satisfied and I'd recommend this unit. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #5 Posted June 14, 2022 4 minutes ago, Handy Don said: I decided to add a new digital voltmeter to the original, 58 year old ammeter in a custom dash. Voltmeter is wired to the Ignition contact on the switch so I can see the battery charge state just by switching on (and yes, the coil is drawing power then unless the points happen to be open). It seems to average out its input every two seconds so the display is smooth (below 10 volts, the little white dot flashes red as a warning). I cross-checked it with a good DVOM and it's accurate, too. At WOT the ammeter needle jumps around in the 0-15 amp "charge" territory, but the voltmeter is a steady 14.5 vdc. I am satisfied and I'd recommend this unit. Yes, I place my meter in the circuit over any ammeter. Ammeters can go bad without warning and fry half the harness! Nice gauge there. You can also add a light to any system much like the circuit in a 1277 or 1045. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,217 #6 Posted June 14, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, "Manic-Mechanic" said: You can also add a light to any system much like the circuit in a 1277 or 1045. I left real estate on the dash for possible future stuff. Lights are possible (I'd add them only on some sort of easily mounted/removed bracket) though with the mechanically-regulated supply, I suspect LEDs might flicker without some sort of capacitor and over-voltage protection in the circuit (have to check with my electrical wizard cousin for input). I do have a set so maybe I'll test 'em before I commit. Edited June 14, 2022 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #7 Posted June 15, 2022 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: I left real estate on the dash for possible future stuff. Lights are possible (I'd add them only on some sort of easily mounted/removed bracket) though with the mechanically-regulated supply, I suspect LEDs might flicker without some sort of capacitor and over-voltage protection in the circuit (have to check with my electrical wizard cousin for input). I do have a set so maybe I'll test 'em before I commit. Yes, find your preferred 12 v circuit (fused) and test them first off for sure Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,194 #8 Posted June 19, 2022 (edited) I added the fender pan and seat. The seat is very comfortable, it i set as far back as can be. The pivot pin and bushings along with spacers and washers all very secure The pitting in the fender pan is present but not too terrible The stand off bracket for the pulse fuel pump is "good & tight" Now it must come back off for paint! I recently started changing over the this style pump over the mechanical. Mechanical diaphragm goes bad without warning, fuel into the sump, not cool! Edited June 19, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites