davem1111 2,073 #1 Posted June 12, 2022 I'm trying to fix some sloppiness in my steering column on my GT-1848, and I'm a bit unclear about how to get the steering column out. The hole in the console that holds the bushing is pretty ragged, so I want to at least remove the column and weld a new piece of steel in there. But first I need the column out. My question is, since the bottom gear is welded to the column (is it supposed to be?), I need to remove the steering wheel. Is the pin holding the steering wheel on a rolled spring pin? At first it looked like a square hole set screw, but I can't tell from the parts diagram and don't want to break anything getting it apart. It seems very similar to the 300 and 400 series, but I've never removed the steering wheel from either of those that I have. Second question: there is about 3/16" to 1/4" play in the horizontal shaft that goes up to the front and has the fan gear on the back (it slides forward and back, which moves the fan gear back). Has anyone shimmed the front bushing housing to tighten this up? Seems like that would help without replacing a bunch of parts. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,918 #2 Posted June 12, 2022 First you have to get the roll pin out. then remove the steering wheel, there is a collar under the bushing and a c-clip under thr collar that just slides on the shaft just to hold the collar while tighting it. once these are loose the shaft will lift up and and can drop down. Yes you can shim the the lower shaft behind the the cotter ket. there is always going to be some loose motion between the gears. getting it too tight will make it hard to steer. I have got two steering wheel off and one I never got off. I cut the shaft on it and pieced back together. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 39,735 #3 Posted June 13, 2022 After several unsuccessful attempts to remove steering wheels, I have resigned to cutting the shafts and reconnecting with a 3/4" shaft connector. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edgro 679 #4 Posted June 13, 2022 When i cut mine i did so at an angle, that way it would somewhat self align before welding. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,073 #5 Posted June 13, 2022 15 hours ago, Lee1977 said: First you have to get the roll pin out. then remove the steering wheel, there is a collar under the bushing and a c-clip under thr collar that just slides on the shaft just to hold the collar while tighting it. once these are loose the shaft will lift up and and can drop down. Yes you can shim the the lower shaft behind the the cotter ket. there is always going to be some loose motion between the gears. getting it too tight will make it hard to steer. I have got two steering wheel off and one I never got off. I cut the shaft on it and pieced back together. Has anyone had any luck drilling out the roll pin? Cutting the shaft seems pretty extreme... I was thinking about mounting a 6472 flanged bearing up top as some have done, but it looks like it would take me 7-10 days to get a new one. Maybe I can pull the one from my parts tractor if it's in decent shape. Or come up with some other way of holding the top of the column steady. I haven't welded in quite a while so I am not going to try anything fancy along those lines, but I do need to reinforce the instrument panel somehow, it bends when you move the wheel. Seems like a bad design choice to try to hold all that force with that thin sheet metal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,743 #6 Posted June 13, 2022 Roll pins are hardened and will rip up standard HSS drill bits. Not being a full circle, where you now have an interrupted cut makes it worse. Use a good cobalt drill one size under that of the pin - that should "relax" the pin enough to use a good roll pin punch to drive it out - support the hub of the wheel - a 2x4 wedged between it and one upright in the garage makes it solid... Bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,918 #7 Posted June 13, 2022 (edited) While you have it apart replace the bushing with a two bolt flange bearing. I use a Toro 6472 flange bearing like on the lower shaft, some use a ball flange bearing. Edited June 13, 2022 by Lee1977 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,073 #8 Posted June 13, 2022 49 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: While you have it apart replace the bushing with a two bolt flange bearing. I use a Toro 6472 flange bearing like on the lower shaft, some use a ball flange bearing. Yeah, I've seen that done, seems like a great idea. I'd like to get this tractor back in service in a few days though, and don't know if I can get a new one here that quick. But I do have a parts tractor I can pull the front one from. Also, to drill the holes I'll need to take that whole top section off, and I also need to weld some metal in here for reinforcement. This is in bad shape (locking collar and bushing already slid down, they seem okay): 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
