RJ 58 or 59 possibly

[wallfish 17,011]

Early RJs didn't have cast numbers in the trans case

Not original --- the front rims/tires, the exhaust pipe and muffler and whatever that bar thingy is on the front

[Rattlecan 67]

Didn’t think that loop thingy belonged. Thanks for confirmation.  It’s welded but I can get to welds with small cut off wheel and remove it.  I will go dig thru my taps I think I have 3/4 tapered pipe taps somewhere and see if I can do something with exhaust port threads.

 

thanks again

[Handy Don 12,235]

2 hours ago, Rattlecan said:

see if I can do something with exhaust port threads

I don't know your level of welding skill, but if you can get enough thread to hold a brass nipple, a skilled welder using the right settings, gas, and wire might be able to build up the broken off section of the port without bonding to the brass and then remove the nipple. Chase the threads with a tap and put in a new steel nipple. Welding to cast iron is not easy, of course, hence this will require some serious skill (and probably a test on a scrap block!)

Another option, with downsides of course, is to weld a nipple (male threads) or a cut off piece of a coupler (female threads) directly onto the block

Edited June 11, 2022 by Handy Don

[stevasaurus 22,764]

Right @wallfish...the early #5003 transmissions did not have a casting date.  So @Rattlecan, if that trans is original to that horse, you have an early 1958.  

The flywheel side (rope pulley) goes clockwise.  The drivebelt side goes counter-clockwise.  While you have the seat and seat spring off, take a long straw or something and carefully put it down one of the bolt holes, like a dip stick, to check the level and condition of the oil in the trans.  Let us know what you find there.

[Rattlecan 67]

Update for anyone that is interested and of course more questions.  Got all new pipe and fittings for exhaust and new drive belt this a.m. from agri store.   Used Dremel with round stone to remove some of the material in the back of the exhaust port and ran tap in. Repeated about five times.  Cut two threads off of tap with cut off wheel.  Stone and tap many times, pipe nipple would just get started in the worst area at this point.  Stone back some more, tap some more, cut two more threads off front of tap. I think by the time I was done I had cut 5 or 6 threads off the front of the tap.  Before I started with the grinding/tapping I rotated crank around so exhaust valve was closed to try and keep grinding stuff out of valve and cylinder.  When I was done(several hours later) I removed spark plug and rotated crank to open exhaust valve one put shop vac nozzle over exhaust port.  Had good suction thru plug hole! hope I got all the junk out.  Got about four threads engaged in the worst spot and almost all the threads in the best spot with it a little tighter than hand tight. Put rest of exhaust parts on hand tight. Checked for spark, not the best but was firing.   Put short piece of gas line on carb with small funnel stuck in it(motor on bench) added gas to funnel.  Turned it over with battery drill on flywheel nut, nothing.  Flipped choke on, spun with drill and it sputtered. Choke off, spun with drill again, it runs,!!!!!  Did not run but about one minute, had cooling shrouds off of motor.  I did not think I would get as many threads in the block as I did but I think it is going to work. Thanks for all the advise guys.

 

Stevasaurus I Will check fluid in trans tomorrow.  Oil in motor was clean and full.

 

How long is the long 3/4 pipe supposed to be going to the muffler?

 

The muffler I have is 1/2 pipe threads and pipe is reduced at last elbow.  Is this an issue?

 

I think the reason the threads were broken out is all the exhaust was hanging on the threads with no support.  There is nothing on tractor to support exhaust but there are two holes in vertical flat bar on that side.  Am I missing some kind of exhaust clamp there?

 

I have the air cleaner thing off and it has lots of oil residue and gunk in the bottom, it and looks like wool or some kind of rats nest on top of a screen in the top.  I cleaned all the dirt/oil out of the bottom. It has a oil fill line.  Do I need to do anything other than put oil in(what kind?).  What do I do with the wool stuff in the top half?

 

There is a small spring around the link between the governor arm and carb. One end is hooked in a hole in the pivot arm on the carb the other hooked end is not hooked to anything.  Anyone know what it hooks to?

 

I going to stop for now.

 

Thanks again in advance!!!

.

[Handy Don 12,235]

You have more guts than I do to try this. And a LOT more luck to succeed!

Congrats

[AMC RULES 37,130]

23 minutes ago, Rattlecan said:

 

 There is nothing on tractor to support the exhaust but there are two holes in vertical flat bar on that side.  Am I missing some kind of exhaust 

23 minutes ago, Rattlecan said:

 

 

There is a small spring around the link between the governor arm and carb. One end is hooked in a hole in the pivot arm on the carb the other hooked end is not hooked to anything.  Anyone know what it hooks to?

 

[Rattlecan 67]

thanks AMC RULES.  The link on mine is reversed from yours and the link is threaded thru the coils in the spring. I tried to hook it where yours is today and it was all twisted around and slipped off.  I need to remove link from inside if coils and put link in opposite side of governor arm.  Pics worth a thousand words.

 

thanks

 

 

 

[Rattlecan 67]

A unbolt clamp. That will do it.

 

thanks again

[AMC RULES 37,130]

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1011204/Kohler-K91.html?page=15#manual

[Rattlecan 67]

Stevasaurus. Stuck a small rod into front seat spring bolt hole into transmission.  About 1 1/2 to 1 3/4  inches of oil on rod.  Bottom 1/4 inch is kind of sludgy brown. Looks like a pipe plug drain on right side of trans and a fill pipe plug on top.  Does it take 90 wt gear oil?

 

AMCRULES.  I got the link to the governor arm flipped over and the link out of the spring coils and hooked up like the pic you sent.  Much better.  Also did the preliminary settings from the instruction link you sent.

 

thanks again

[wallfish 17,011]

Best way to drain is to remove one of the bottom bolts on the side plate. (it's lower than that drain plug is so more oil will be removed) Tilt it to the side a little to the open bolt hole. Those bolts are into the cast center piece so DO NOT over tighten when putting the bolt back. We have seen many of those cast parts with broken hole tabs because someone over tightened until they snap off.

You can fill it some with diesel or kerosene and run it (Electric motor, drill etc or engine if it's running) to flush and loosen more of the crap out.

Easiest way to fill it is remove the shifter and use that big hole to fill it.

Yes, gear oil

Edited June 12, 2022 by wallfish

[Rattlecan 67]

Tilt it to the side a little to the open bolt hole
 

I don’t understand this part.  Raise opposite side so more will drain out of bolt hole?

[stevasaurus 22,764]

That plug on the side is actually the fill plug.  The trans is filled until oil runs out that plug...about 1 1/2 qts of 90 wt gear oil.  What John is talking about...there is no drain plug on the bottom of these transmissions.  You have to take out one of the bolts that holds the side plate to the casting.  Then jack up the other side of horse a little to get better draining.  You may have to stick a small screwdriver in the bolt hole to open it up if sludge is keeping the oil from draining.     Fill trans from the seat spring holes.

[stevasaurus 22,764]

This thread will show you what the inside of your trans looks like...

 

[Rattlecan 67]

Thanks for the above guys.  Got every thing put back together, motor in place, exhaust hooked up, unbolt clamp on.  Removed and cleaned full tank. Removed and cleaned out float bowl.  Started it up and could not get drive belt to disengage. Adjusted brake clutch thing and that did not work either.  Found a post here by wallfish (saved me again) that said you have to have belt guard in place and just like magic it worked.  Drained trans and put diesel in ran around yard a few times.  First time I started off I did a wheelie into my utility trailer, had it in third I think, that was surprising.  No damage.  Drained diesel, put more in drove around, drained again, cleaner this time, filled with gear oil thru the seat bolt hole til it came out of the fill hole that Stevasaurus informed me was not the drain hole, thanks.  Put the air filter thing back on, I just put motor oil in it, do not know if that is correct.  Still no luck finding front wheels.  More questions again:

 

do I need to do anything with the wool looking stuff in the top part of the air cleaner, is motor oil what I should use in the bottom?

 

the idler/tensioner pulley bearing is a little sloppy and noisy(have not taken it off) is the bearing replaceable and or available?

 

have a stress crack in hood running from the gas cap hole out about 1 1/2 inches, think it is from weight of tank hanging on the hanger bracket that is welded under the hood.  I can weld the crack up.  Any experience with this or ideas to support tank?

 

thanks in advance again

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,764]

If that wool looking stuff is not all ripped up, clean it with kerosene or mineral spirits.  Maybe you can cut a green scrubby to fit.  I am not sure what that looks like, that's why I am guessing here.  Motor oil is fine in the bottom.

   On the hood crack, there are some threads showing fixes for the gas tank.  Either search for...or maybe some know where they are.

[wallfish 17,011]

16 hours ago, Rattlecan said:

Thanks for the above guys.  Got every thing put back together, motor in place, exhaust hooked up, unbolt clamp on.  Removed and cleaned full tank. Removed and cleaned out float bowl.  Started it up and could not get drive belt to disengage. Adjusted brake clutch thing and that did not work either.  Found a post here by wallfish (saved me again) that said you have to have belt guard in place and just like magic it worked.  Drained trans and put diesel in ran around yard a few times.  First time I started off I did a wheelie into my utility trailer, had it in third I think, that was surprising.  No damage.  Drained diesel, put more in drove around, drained again, cleaner this time, filled with gear oil thru the seat bolt hole til it came out of the fill hole that Stevasaurus informed me was not the drain hole, thanks.  Put the air filter thing back on, I just put motor oil in it, do not know if that is correct.  Still no luck finding front wheels.  More questions again:

 

do I need to do anything with the wool looking stuff in the top part of the air cleaner, is motor oil what I should use in the bottom?

 

the idler/tensioner pulley bearing is a little sloppy and noisy(have not taken it off) is the bearing replaceable and or available?

 

have a stress crack in hood running from the gas cap hole out about 1 1/2 inches, think it is from weight of tank hanging on the hanger bracket that is welded under the hood.  I can weld the crack up.  Any experience with this or ideas to support tank?

 

thanks in advance again

 

 

Yeah, they take off quick in 3rd if you're not used to it! Steering is REAL quick too! Glad to hear you got'r driving!

Like Steve stated, wash the oil filter wool out. Gas or something that won't disolve the paint. Motor oil is what's supposed to go in there.

I find it easier to just buy a new idler than fixing them but you might be able to remove the bearing in those, just don't remember. Try greasing that bearing first.

It's common to see those cracks in the hood. My recommendation is to drill a 1/8 hole at the end of it to stop the cracks migration before doing any repairs. My preference would be to drill a hole and leave it. Once you braze or weld them to repair you are painting it. I like old tractors to look like old tractors but that's my rusty hang up! If you're going to restore the whole thing and paint it you can add some braces under the hood with the tank mount straps to better spread out the load. The big thing when heating sheet metal is it WILL expand with heat. Keep it quick and cool it often. Covering the surrounding area with wet damp cloths to minimize warping the metal will help. Maybe some metal guys will chime in

 

Edited June 14, 2022 by wallfish

[Rattlecan 67]

Thanks for the above guys.  Got every thing put back together, motor in place, exhaust hooked up, unbolt clamp on.  Removed and cleaned full tank. Removed and cleaned out float bowl.  Started it up and could not get drive belt to disengage. Adjusted brake clutch thing and that did not work either.  Found a post here by wallfish (saved me again) that said you have to have belt guard in place and just like magic it worked.  Drained trans and put diesel in ran around yard a few times.  First time I started off I did a wheelie into my utility trailer, had it in third I think, that was surprising.  No damage.  Drained diesel, put more in drove around, drained again, cleaner this time, filled with gear oil thru the seat bolt hole til it came out of the fill hole that Stevasaurus informed me was not the drain hole, thanks.  Put the air filter thing back on, I just put motor oil in it, do not know if that is correct.  Still no luck finding front wheels.  More questions again:

 

do I need to do anything with the wool looking stuff in the top part of the air cleaner, is motor oil what I should use in the bottom?

 

the idler/tensioner pulley bearing is a little sloppy and noisy(have not taken it off) is the bearing replaceable and or available?

 

have a stress crack in hood running from the gas cap hole out about 1 1/2 inches, think it is from weight of tank hanging on the hanger bracket that is welded under the hood.  I can weld the crack up.  Any experience with this or ideas to support tank?

 

Where can I get a new idler?

 

Can I get the wool out to wash it? It is between two screens and I do not see how the upper part of this thing comes apart or do I just wash the whole upper assembly?

 

I read a posting here about a kohler pull starter cup and tecumseh recoil starter that listed part numbers for the k91.  I think I found the recoil starter but I have not found kohler 46 109 01s cup?  Is there another recoil starter option? The one that is on it is a rope starter.

 

Thanks again

 

[Rattlecan 67]

Do not know how I attached that to the previous post.  Still do not know how to navigate here.  Sorry
 

 

Where can I get a new idler?

 

Can I get the wool out to wash it? It is between two screens and I do not see how the upper part of this thing comes apart or do I just wash the whole upper assembly?

 

I read a posting here about a kohler pull starter cup and tecumseh recoil starter that listed part numbers for the k91.  I think I found the recoil starter but I have not found kohler 46 109 01s cup?  Is there another recoil starter option? The one that is on it is a rope starter.

 

Thanks again

[wallfish 17,011]

13 hours ago, Rattlecan said:

Do not know how I attached that to the previous post.  Still do not know how to navigate here.  Sorry
Weird because my editor automatically filled up with my last post too. Not normal, It usually clears after you post

 

Where can I get a new idler?

I forget the size of those RJ idlers. Measure and search the innerweb. Don't worry about the bore diameter as you can get pulley bushings to size them. Also take a look at it as you may be able to just replace the bearing too.Try greasing the one you have unless it's already wobbling like the bearings are gone

 

Can I get the wool out to wash it? It is between two screens and I do not see how the upper part of this thing comes apart or do I just wash the whole upper assembly?

No, Wash the upper assembly

 

I read a posting here about a kohler pull starter cup and tecumseh recoil starter that listed part numbers for the k91.  I think I found the recoil starter but I have not found kohler 46 109 01s cup?  Is there another recoil starter option? The one that is on it is a rope starter.

Kohler also made stamped steel starters

A Techumseh will fit but I can not remember the cup. I know it was deeper than the everyday techumseh cups.

Fairbanks is a more nostalgic starter if you can find one

Schnake were the originals but pricey

 

Thanks again

Welcome!

 

Edited June 15, 2022 by wallfish