RJ 58 or 59 possibly

[Rattlecan 67]

New here.  Never Posted on one of these forums before so I do not know if this is is going to get where anyone can read it.
 

I have a B80 that has been in the family since new and is still running.  I purchased an older wheel horse from a co-worker about a month ago.  I have spent a lot of time reading here and I think it is a Rj 58 or 59 from what I have learned here (lots of info here).  Can not find an ID tag anywhere on it.  It has a Kohler k91 on it and unfortunately the exhaust port threads are about 75% broken out (the thin wall of the embossment on the block where pipe threads were are broken off of block).  I don’t think it is salvageable, not much meat left there.  Also missing recoil pull starter.  It also has some kind of wheelbarrow wheels on the front.  I have read here I think that the front tires were 4.8/4x8.  The spindles measure 3/4 by 4.5 inches long from flange to snap ring groove. I have looked for several weeks and and have not found any original wheels for sale and that may be impossible to find.  Other than that it is in fairly good shape and has belt guards, fenders, tool box, flat hitch on back with cable and lever that raises and lowers it, hood in good shape, toggle switch(kill switch I think), and a lever throttle cable on hood.

Sorry, that was long winded.

Now for the questions if someone can help me out:

 

Any suggestions on a replacement motor will fit as a replacement?

 

Does any one know what the offset on the 4 1/2 wheel hubs are in relation to the wheel inner and outer wheel flanges?  I may try to bore hubs out of a wheel on the lathe and weld a hub in the correct length with the correct offset.  All of the wheels I have found the hubs are too short.

 

Any suggestions with my issues with motor or wheels is much appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

If any of this text gets to anyone I will try to figure out how to get photos sent.

 

 

 

[roadapples 6,983]

 yup, you're at the right place. Pictures would be helpful...

[SylvanLakeWH 25,597]

 

 

 

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Add photos into your post from either your computer or phone using this button.

[wallfish 17,011]

The exhaust threads can probably tapped to regain some threads. NPT threads taper down and rarely would the threads on the pipe end before it gets tight so that gives a good amount of material to work with. The smaller edge of the pipe threads can be cut off or ground down so you're working with wider threads to engage them. Same thing for the tap if it goes too deep into hole. Grind the end off.

Replacement K91 engines are out there although a bit more scarce then they used to be. IMO they look funny with new Preditor engines on them.

Original front wheels are hens teeth as they all rotted away from the calcium chloride they were filled with.You'll have to search. Years ago we found some that came off large fire extinguisher carts so be creative

[Ed Kennell 38,209]

to the     many small engines can be used, but please do not cut or alter any of the tractor parts to install the replacement.

 

Using Johns suggestions above, the exhaust area can be rebuilt.      An NPT Straight Thread tap  may also help to regain a few good threads in the block.    Then the area could be reconstructed using a high temperature Devcon or JB Weld.

[rjg854 11,378]

  @Rattlecan

[953 nut 55,296]

Sounds like your co-worker fixed you up with a great project. June 24 and 25 there is a  show in southern PA you might want to consider attending, lots of parts for sale and even more good people to talk with.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/WheelHorseCollectorsClub/posts/?ref=page_internal

[oliver2-44 9,759]

 

 

You can go to the Manuals section and find a manual with a parts breakdown.  May I suggest you change the oil in the transmission and replace the rubber boot on the shifter. If you find some water or white gray looking oil (which has water in it) fill the transmission with diesel or kerosene and flush it out a time or two.  If the tractor runs, drive it around a while with the diesel then drain. To refill with oil remove the shifter and fill using the shifter hole.  I have rethreaded a kohler exhaust deeper as described above and it works!  I also have one that I rethreaded and gained some thread, then i cleaned threads with carb or brake cleaner and coated them with JB Weld and "glued the nipple in.  While this may not be the perfect solution, it saves and old engine. 

[Rattlecan 67]

Wow thanks for all the responses. This is not the best pic. I took it last week. Thanks for the red arrow for how to get pics on here, I do better with pictures.  Will try to get some closer ups when I get home. Basically the entire portion that had threads is broken away and I can see what I guess is the exhaust valve stem. All that is left is a radius bottom pocket and then it looks like the motor internals. This is the only photo I have of tractor, can get more this evening. Do not know if it will run, figured it would be very loud if it did.  Guess I Gould break out the ear muffs.

 

thanks again all

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Tap those threads to clean them up.

Seeing lots to work with there.

Shouldn't be too difficult to repair.

[Rattlecan 67]

There is only 1-2 threads on right side none any where else.  The hole left is right much smaller than 3/4 pipe tap drill size and 1/2 to 5/8 deep to the stem in back of hole.  Do I drill it then tap it? How deep / close to valve stem can I drill depth wise and or tap?  Thanks again

[stevasaurus 22,764]

I would not run it without setting up some kind of muffler.  

   As far as 1958 or 1959...A 1958 RJ is just that...a 1959 RJ is a 1958 RJ that was assembled in 1959.  There is one way to kind of know.  Look on top of your transmission on the right side of the shifter.  The numbers there, if there are any, is the casting date for the transmission casting.  It will look something like this...  G14%8.  The "G" is the month...July 14, 1958.  The problem is a 1958 casting date could have been used in 1959...But, if you have a casting date with a 9 at the end...that is 1959.  Unless, some one needed a new trans and yours is not the original transmission.      Looks like you have a real nice one there.

[cafoose 3,355]

6 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

I would not run it without setting up some kind of muffler.  

   As far as 1958 or 1959...A 1958 RJ is just that...a 1959 RJ is a 1958 RJ that was assembled in 1959.  There is one way to kind of know.  Look on top of your transmission on the right side of the shifter.  The numbers there, if there are any, is the casting date for the transmission casting.  It will look something like this...  G14%8.  The "G" is the month...July 14, 1958.  The problem is a 1958 casting date could have been used in 1959...But, if you have a casting date with a 9 at the end...that is 1959.  Unless, some one needed a new trans and yours is not the original transmission.      Looks like you have a real nice one there.

This one is March 31. 1959 would make it an RJ-59

Edited June 10, 2022 by cafoose

[wallfish 17,011]

You can run the K91 on 1/2 pipe too. Or at least I have done it without issue. Or use a 1/2 nipple to connect to the engine then a bushing to go up to 3/4? 

That thing is in pretty good condition and yeah, the wheel barrow tires gotta go. Screws up the whole look of it.

BTW, that up draft oil bath air cleaner is a very sought after item. Not many survived so that's nice find! The original belt guard is also pretty rare even though there are repops available, many want those originals

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Appears it was always a rope start.

[Rattlecan 67]

You just wrap a rope around it and pull it, which way do you wrap it?

 

did not see any numbers or letters in casting, took seat and box/fenders off and did not see any under there either.

 

took photos all four sides and motor name plate, pipe and muffler.

 

what’s correct not correct, original or not original?  All suggestions/comments welcome and appreciated

 

thanks again

[Rattlecan 67]

[cafoose 3,355]

4 minutes ago, Rattlecan said:

 

did not see any numbers or letters in casting, took seat and box/fenders off and did not see any under there either.

Did you clean off the area around the shifter boot and look there?

[cafoose 3,355]

[Rattlecan 67]

Yes, did not see anything.

[oldlineman 1,481]

Your starting rope with knot in one end will only catch the fly wheel pulley and hold one way.

[cafoose 3,355]

That's the area where I've always seen it

[Rattlecan 67]

I will check again. This is other side, could not get it to attach with others

Edited June 10, 2022 by Rattlecan

[cafoose 3,355]

Just now, Rattlecan said:

I will check again

Should look about like the picture I posted in post #14. You may have to scrape off some dirt and paint.