'74 C160 Tecumseh engine tractor. Let's put it to use!

[TractorEd 633]

On 8/7/2024 at 7:29 PM, ebinmaine said:

Reinstalled  the Facet pump. 

I may have to try to find one or three of those.  Part number? There are like 100 different part numbers for the Posi Flow!

 

Do you have other electric pumps you like better?

Edited August 16 by TractorEd

[ebinmaine 67,401]

2 hours ago, TractorEd said:

I may have to try to find one or three of those.  Part number? There are like 100 different part numbers for the Posi Flow!

 

Do you have other electric pumps you like better?

 

 

I've collected the following numbers off the interwebs. 

I've ONLY used the Facet. 

 

Facet 60245 or 60304

Mr. Gasket 42s

Carter P4070

 

The difference between the Facet part numbers is the outlet pressure. 

Either will work. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Folks like @AMC RULES and @stevebo and all you other Patina lovin' types would be proud o' me on this build. 

I've been concentrated pretty hard on getting NO new paint except the wheels. 

 

There's a fair amount of parts swapping for this Beast to use the best mechanical but still original of everything I have around.  

 

This afternoon I commenced to repair on a seat and fender pan. 

I took into account the overall color,  patina, and how difficult it was gonna be to straighten whatever fender I used. 

This is one from another C160-8 Tecumseh Horse that'll be a candidate for a full restoration later on. 

 

 

 

 

I also borrowed a brake drum and shoe from the parts shelf. 

The shoe had some gunky  grease so I laid out a whole can of brake clean and scraped off the shoe surface. 

Installed that, adjusted the park brake.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The list is getting shorter!!

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Known To-do list:

 

Remove and replace step grip tape. 

Install side steps. 

 

Put grass screen on engine. 

 

Drill wheel stud holes in Ag wheels. 

Install rear tubes.

Mount rear wheels. 

 

Run extra ground (straps or wires.)

 

Front wheels: remove, check bearings, add spacer washers. 

 

Start engine. Warm up. Adjust carb. 

 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Tractor is looking sweet. Although I'm still not in the 'pro-patina' camp I can understand in wanting to keep everything matching. Also.. kinda jealous of your parts shelf.

 

13 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Known

 

I like that addition. Seems that some people (SO for example, or employers ) not always understand this concept. 

 

Edited August 17 by sjoemie himself

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Sorry @ebinmaine was still editing while you reacted.

Edited August 17 by sjoemie himself

[ebinmaine 67,401]

3 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

 

I like that addition. Seems that some people (SO for example, or employers ) not always understand this concept. 

 

 

As you can imagine I phrase it that way because of many past experiences. 

 

IMHO: 

Anyone who doesn't understand the concept of things needing extra or different attention shouldn't be allowed to make the decisions on what gets done. 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

50 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Tractor is looking sweet. Although I'm still not in the 'pro-patina' camp I can understand in wanting to keep everything matching.

 

I'm still there with ya on the patina thing....

 

I don't mind if something has old but solid paint. But rust is rust.  

 

This particular tractor I decided to stay with it in its "work clothes" for a bit and see how it runs and drives. 

 

 

 

50 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Also.. kinda jealous of your parts shelf.

Man... it's a collection... 

We have 3 indoor areas that'll be combined to 2. 

1 outdoor space that's covered with a tarp. 

I've been slowly getting some of the non usable stuff cleaned out and some of the duplicates given/sold to other people. 

 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

My main issue with patina is that's it's just not suitable for our climate. It's way too wet for things (tractors/cars/trucks etc.) to develop something that resembles patina. Before it ever gets to that stage those things develop rustblisters and holes.

Only exception (for me) are old machinery tools like lathes/mills etc. They are kept inside and most of the time are well maintained.

 

Keeping a machine in working clothes to work with it and check that everything functions as intended is a great idea ofcourse. I'll be doing the same with the 512-D and IH 585, even if that means putting up with patina for the time being  Painting will be the LAST thing I do to those machines.

 

Did you build your collection of parts from marketplace and or Ebay or more or less complete tractors?

 

Complete tractors are rare here, parts tractors even more rare and parts almost non existing.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

12 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

Did you build your collection of parts from marketplace and or Ebay or more or less complete tractors?

 

Complete tractors are rare here, parts tractors even more rare and parts almost non existing.

 

It's been a combo of all those. 

 

Several years ago I participated in an online auction. 

We brought home massive amounts of tools supplies shelves parts and tractors. 

Much of it has been rehomed and gave life to new things like @Oldskool building an entire tractor and quite a few machines owned by other folks have been made operational from that single purchase. 

 

We've also had people give us parts tractors or parts of tractors several times over the years. 

The new parts are all things I've picked up when I needed. Many of them are duplicates because it's less expensive to buy in bulk and I know I'll need them in the future. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Engine screen is on. 

 

 

 

Rear wheels have been drilled and mounted. 

 

 

 

The lug holes need to be expanded about 2 hair's width. The OE 7/16 holes are usually worn some. I refresh them to 1/2 for the wheel spacers. Some of the holes aren't even enlarged. 

 

 

 

 

This is definitely a Fat Bottom Girl.  

 

 

Just shy of 42" across the outside of the tires. Same as my other two running C160s. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

The headlight buckets were pretty gunked up with old leaves and such. Got em cleaned out and now have power to both wires. 

Also will be swapping a better headlight lense on. 

 

This battery is now 5 years old.

At some point in the past a previous owner split the positive terminal. 

It won't likely last through the cold seasons but it still works so I used a longer bolt and 2 washers to pinch the split terminal. 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

I like to have extra ground cables. Redundancy is not a concern on a 12V DC system. 

The original Wheelhorse ground connects the battery to the underside of the fuel tank shelf. That's fine IF the tractor has no rust between the steering tower and frame and engine adapter and engine. 

Too many possibilities for interruption. 

 

The original cable had a repair on the battery end. 

I'm not a fan of bolted on terminal ends and the cable was stiff so that went in the round file. 

I had a cable in stock that had two 3/8 hole ends. I cut that in half and added a 5/16 copper terminal to each end. 

Heat shrink on all four ends. 

 

 

 

 

 

This afternoon I decided to clean up the side steps. 

One was on this tractor when I got it. The other is from my 1971 Bronco. 

Each tractor had the wrong step in the opposite side. ... so I swapped them to the correct tractor. 

Well that worked out well. 

 

First Trina used the heat gun to remove the old grip tape from the surface of the left step. 

I ground the surface of both, cleaned them with acetone,  and added new black sand grip tape. 

I like to run the tape up the vertical part because that protects the paint from my boots. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Moparfanforever 844]

Very nice!!! Looks like it is going to be a good worker.

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

On 8/18/2024 at 6:59 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting battery hold down strap. Looks to be plastic? Do you have more info on it?

[ebinmaine 67,401]

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

 

Interesting battery hold down strap. Looks to be plastic? Do you have more info on it?

 

It's actually red anodized aluminum  or as the Brits say aluminium ...

 

I bought it to fit either a Group 35 or 51/51R battery.  

 

As you can see I've trimmed one end to clear the Tecumseh starter. 

 

Works excellent.  

 

[lynnmor 7,303]

12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

It's actually red anodized aluminum  or as the Brits say aluminium ...

 

I bought it to fit either a Group 35 or 51/51R battery.  

 

As you can see I've trimmed one end to clear the Tecumseh starter. 

 

Works excellent.  

 

If that allouminium touches that POS battery connector it will get real ugly, real fast. 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

9 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

If that allouminium touches that POS battery connector it will get real ugly, real fast. 

 

Just think of all the pretty fireworks 🎆 

 

That cable is: 

Well insulated. 

Tightly installed. 

Temporary. 

 

[lynnmor 7,303]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Just think of all the pretty fireworks 🎆 

 

That cable is: 

Well insulated. 

Tightly installed. 

Temporary. 

 

I understand, and I know you will do your best, but I have seen some marginal battery holding on here and we should point out potential serious problems.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Just now, lynnmor said:

I understand, and I know you will do your best, but I have seen some marginal battery holding on here and we should point out potential serious problems.

 

 

ABSOLUTELY AGREED.  

 

If anyone ever reads this in the future... just know it was only to hear the engine start. 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

23 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

aluminium ...

Same here 

 

On 8/20/2024 at 12:38 AM, ebinmaine said:

Works excellent. 

..and looks good

[sqrlgtr 552]

On 8/17/2024 at 6:59 PM, ebinmaine said:

Engine screen is on. 

 

 

 

Rear wheels have been drilled and mounted. 

 

 

 

The lug holes need to be expanded about 2 hair's width. The OE 7/16 holes are usually worn some. I refresh them to 1/2 for the wheel spacers. Some of the holes aren't even enlarged. 

 

 

 

 

This is definitely a Fat Bottom Girl.  

 

 

Just shy of 42" across the outside of the tires. Same as my other two running C160s. 

 

@ebinmaine can you elaborate a little more on the wheel spacers , i.e. stud size of spacers and thread and what size are you drilling the holes out to in the wheels. Thought about putting some fatty's on the back of the 701, it can get a little "unstable" on the sides of the hills around here. Thanks

[ebinmaine 67,401]

3 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said:

@ebinmaine can you elaborate a little more on the wheel spacers , i.e. stud size of spacers and thread and what size are you drilling the holes out to in the wheels. Thought about putting some fatty's on the back of the 701, it can get a little "unstable" on the sides of the hills around here. Thanks

 

 

Be happy to. 

I can send a PM with purchase info too. 

 

I use 2" spacers normally. 

They have a 1/2" outer lug stud. Wheelhorse and most garden tractors use a 7/16 wheel bolt hole. The holes need to be  cleaned up to 1/2. Usually I fins that 1 or 2 of the 5 holes per wheel don't even get touched. On the high side you're removing 1/16 so 1/32 all around. 

 

I get the spacers on fleeebay.  

It's important to get spacers with NO centering lip and be aware of the large center bore. 

 

I get internal hex wheel bolts as well. These are necessary because a socket wont fit around many standard lug nuts inside the spacer holes. 

 

All easy stuff. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

@lynnmor

You'll be happy to know I replaced the temporary positive battery cable this afternoon. 

 

This was an automotive cable that had a bad end. 

Chopped that. Cut to length.  

Installed.  

 

 

 

 

 

Also started getting to the oil leak at the valve cover. I read a few weeks ago that the valve cover MUST BE SEALED in order to create vacuum to draw the engine oil to that location.  

It was definitely getting oil. 

It was also leaking it. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Did some research and ordered a new breather, tube and an NOS valve cover. I don't necessarily need the valve cover but I have 3 of these engines I'd like to see running and one's rough looking.  

 

I got these parts all cleaned up and rust removed.  

 

The Paint Department is putting a coat of Rust-Oleum 2X Satin Canyon Black on them.