'74 C160 Tecumseh engine tractor. Let's put it to use!

[Handy Don 12,207]

50 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

It doesn't though...

The short tang is still held in place by the gasket just as the opposite way round. 

 

I’d be suspicious of any orientation that can disturb the gasket seal either on the bowl or the body.

I think it is on backward.

To my eye, the long tang is supposed to engage with the rectangular nub on the body under the float pivot shaft. The short tang is against the frame of the float where you saw the rubbed clean area.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

14 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I’d be suspicious of any orientation that can disturb the gasket seal either on the bowl or the body.

I think it is on backward.

To my eye, the long tang is supposed to engage with the rectangular nub on the body under the float pivot shaft. The short tang is against the frame of the float where you saw the rubbed clean area.

 

 

You have an interesting thought there.....

[TractorEd 633]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

It doesn't though...

NOTHING TO SEE HERE!  NOW MOVE ALONG … 🤫

[TractorEd 633]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

You have an interesting thought there.....

I was going to ask about that rectangle thing, but I couldn’t see under the spring/float good enough.  That’s what I get for being shy.  @Handy Don said it.  And I think he may be right.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

I got a reply from a YouTube channel that has done these. If I get permission I'll post what he sent. 

 

I may have a tab missing from the float.  

More to come later there...

 

 

 

In other news..

I have a nice seat here that I cleaned up yesterday.  

It's a very odd material. 

Rough. Grippy. Not at all smooth and shiny.  It should be EXCELLENT for our rough terrain and woods usage. 

 

 

I used a tap to clean out the exhaust based on how another one of my C160-8 Tecumseh powered tractors is set up. 

 

I'll get a pipe to thread into the cylinder head instead of relying on two small bolts in a flange. 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,834]

Awesome stuff EB!  You know, a guy with the right tools could make a sleeve flange pipe tube apparatus to support the exhaust both ways.  Pipe threads AND tapped holes.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

14 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Awesome stuff EB!  You know, a guy with the right tools could make a sleeve flange pipe tube apparatus to support the exhaust both ways.  Pipe threads AND tapped holes.

 

Ooooooooooooooo

 

I'm gonna have to put some thought process to that one!

[Handy Don 12,207]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Awesome stuff EB!  You know, a guy with the right tools could make a sleeve flange pipe tube apparatus to support the exhaust both ways.  Pipe threads AND tapped holes.

I was wishing I HAD tapped flange holes when I discovered there were no usable threads left in a K181 even after investing in the big NPT tap! Ended up “gluing” the nipple in with the ceramic JB weld.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Transmission drive pulley being removed. 

 

 

 

 

Attempt at removing both wheel hubs this morning. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Both hubs came off just fine. Almost no resistance from the right side. Minimal effort required for the left side.  

 

All four seals removed. 

One axle cleaned up. 

Seals ready for installation after cleaning is finished.  

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Steering wheel on. New roll pin in. 

 

 

Wheel seals in. 

I use an old hub as a "driver"..

Keeps the seals square and drives them right in with minimal effort.  

 

 

 

My audience this morning. 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,207]

7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

My audience this morning. 

Just a couple of clucks--ignore ‘em!

[ebinmaine 67,401]

A few days ago I'd ordered some bushings to take the looseness/ play out of the clutch pedal cross shaft. 

Today I watched a video on how to hand sharpen a large drill bit because I needed a 5/8' hole deeper than the step bits on hand. 

Got that bored out on both sides and tapped the bushings in place. 

To make a little room for the flanges of the new bushings I left the spring washer out of the right side and ground the arm a bit on the left. 

 

 

 

 

Got the transmission input pulley on. 

Also added a missing clutch pedal stopper bolt. 

 

 

 

I do have an issue to solve. 

The drive belt contacts the brake lever rod. 

I'll look at some other tractors and see what's happening.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Moparfanforever 844]

The drive belt contacts the brake lever rod. 

 

Engine pulley in to far??

[ebinmaine 67,401]

10 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said:

The drive belt contacts the brake lever rod. 

 

Engine pulley in to far??

 

That's my thought too.  

Everything else looks OK.  

 

It's possible the brake rod is outta line a hair as well.  There's other rods bent. .....

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

On 7/27/2024 at 9:57 AM, ebinmaine said:

Deleted the video. Possible bad information. 

 

Here's a picture showing more likely proper orientation of the spring: 

 

 

 

 

 

On 7/28/2024 at 8:40 AM, ebinmaine said:

 

After having read and mulled over the information I was seeing yesterday and finally finding my own picture I've decided to take the time to reverse the spring back to how I found it. 

 

I DO believe it would work either way on a Wheelhorse but I also believe in doing things right as often as possible. 

 

In the pics the longer "tang" MAY have the ability to create SLIGHTLY more pressure than the shorter tang. 

This could/ would change the operation characteristics. 

 

INCORRECT: 

 

 

CORRECT: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As one could imagine this whole float spring deal was buggin me some. 

Either way I put it just didn't seem right. 

 

But.....

 

It DOES actually belong the way it is in the pic above marked "correct" above it. 

 

Two of my Tecumseh carbs came apart the same way. 

 

On the plus side I did find I was missing a fuel restrictor of some sort that goes in the side of the bottom of the pickup tube that feeds the main jet. 

 

The carb is all back together and back on the engine. 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,207]

39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Two of my Tecumseh carbs came apart the same way. 

I’m not convinced, sir.

Absent clarity in a manual, especially since the spring’s purpose is still unknown, I can easily see any number of these being put together wrong during previous carb rebuilds.

Having the spring touching the float body seems an invitation to friction and wear and holed float; having the spring touching the gasket in any way seems like a leak invite.

[ebinmaine 67,401]

12 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I’m not convinced, sir.

Absent clarity in a manual, especially since the spring’s purpose is still unknown, I can easily see any number of these being put together wrong during previous carb rebuilds.

Having the spring touching the float body seems an invitation to friction and wear and holed float; having the spring touching the gasket in any way seems like a leak invite.

 

I absolutely agree. 

I'm not 100% on board with this either but it appears to be the way it was designed either as built originally or in a later bulletin. 

 

I still haven't found a pic that I know is public share. 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

@Handy Don

I found a paper manual that @c-series don sent Trina a few years ago. 

 

Unfortunately there's no clear Pic in it but the verbal description clearly implies that the gasket actually holds the shorter tang of the spring in place. 

 

It also shows a type of float that's not in either one of my carbs. 

 

Best I can do for now is try it out.  

Runs OK. ...win!

Runs poorly.... I swap a fresh Kohler #30 carb on there and rearrange the linkage. 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,207]

38 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Unfortunately there's no clear Pic in it but the verbal description clearly implies that the gasket actually holds the shorter tang of the spring in place. 

 

Well, I’ll step back and accept it!

[ebinmaine 67,401]

We have fire! 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Fair amount of things going on in my family right now so I took today off work as a "Tractor Therapy" day..

 

Made some good progress on this machine. 

 

Started out with waffles. 

Excellent start. 

 

 

 

 

As mentioned in an earlier post the brake rod was just not setting right. 

I went to the parts pile and got a Park brake lever. Installed that. It became instantly more obvious that the rod was too long and angled wrong. 

So I went back to the parts pile and found a couple of correct brake rods. Chose the least worn one and installed that. 

Better. 

Left is what was on. Right is correct. Note that it's angled wrong and too long. 

 

 

 

 

 

You can see the space next to the belt now. 

 

 

I also put a different brake shoe rod on. Less worn. Sets better. 

 

 

Brake drum seal installed. Brake drum on. 

 

 

 

I put a temporary muffler in place. 

 

 

 

Also installed the fuel system. 

Tank is cast 1990. Looks good inside. 

All new lines. New fuel filter. Reinstalled  the Facet pump. 

New Aircraft Spruce tank outlet valve and grommet. 

 

[ebinmaine 67,401]

Got the hubs cleaned out. 

Installed lug bolts. 

Hunted around for my 25+ year old bottle of never sieze that smells terrible and disgusting. Trina found it. 

Applied that nasty gunk to the axles and slid the hubs in place. 

 

 

 

I like having an extra wiiide rear for stability on our rough terrain. 

 

 

 

Got the shifter dog point set screw adjustment a little tighter. 

Transmission oil topped off and shifter boot on. 

 

 

Shifter top plate installed. Had to replace the inner and outer fasteners that hold it. 

The park brake lever end cover is back on. 

I decided to use the bulldog shift knob I'd picked up years ago for my first Horse, the 1974 B80. 

[kpinnc 11,994]

On 8/3/2024 at 9:28 AM, ebinmaine said:

Attempt at removing both wheel hubs this morning. 

 

Nice puller design! 

 

The extra 4+ inches you'll get from those spacers definitely adds to the track width and stability. I love wheel spacers!

Edited August 12 by kpinnc

[ebinmaine 67,401]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

Nice puller design! 

 

Yessir it sure is!  Not my build though. 

Works excellent. 

That was created by another crazy tractor person. 

 

 

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

The extra 4+ inches you'll get from those spacers definitely adds to the track width and stability. I love wheel spacers!

 

Yeah me too. Better stability. Extra room for chains if needed. And I just like the wide look.