Wheel horse bottom plow and Brinley disk harrow

[TonyToro Jr. 1,408]

We just picked up two attachments. One is a Brinley disk harrow and the other one is a Wheel Horse single bottom plow. ( or that’s what the guy told us) If anyone has any tips or tricks for the wheel horse bottom plow for a manual for it it would help a lot. Also, the adjuster on the bottom plow is not moving right now so if anyone has a trick to get it free it would help. Both things will be going on a 312-8 and I don’t really know how the bottom plow hooks up so if anyone has any pictures or anything with it being hooked up it would help. We were just going to get the disk harrow but the kind guy let us take it for free!  I’ll be using them both to till up the garden along with my C-145 with a rototiller.

 

[Pullstart 62,812]

Penetrating oil and patience!  Just remember with rusty stuff, it took years likely to get stuck.  Don’t assume it will creep in there in minutes 

[Jennifer 1,877]

The person told you right…. We owned a plow just like that.  Not sure why they added the part at the adjustment…. Assuming it had broken? 🤷🏻‍♀️

[Jennifer 1,877]

Unbolt both circles and clean it up…. Soak the adjustment screw do hicky and work it free!   Good luck!  Should not be to difficult…. Like @Pullstartcommented just work at it slowly…. The two circles are your main adjustment points…

[peter lena 8,589]

@TonyToro Jr.  agree with @Pullstart, on the rust run out start of salvation , regularly use this https://www.zoro.com/crc-16-oz-multipurpose-grease-aerosol-can-red-03079/i/G0858313/?, shop around for best pricing . usually when I  encounter neglect , it takes a while to see a sign of function , soak and try , repeat , when it frees up , THEN USE THE GREASE , to enhance what you have .recently recovered a dozer plow / frame , solid rust , elevate your work , only suspend frame , nothing dragging or impeding , function. frozen steering quadrant , now swings with total ease , spring lever clicks and slides like it should. also gave entire unit an oil lubricant spray down , patina saved / rust stopped .  pete

[pacer 3,168]

Nobody has mentioned that the plow is/has been ..... messed with? That adjustment appears to be a complete .. re-fabrication? So, it may or may not operate as original. Also, unless you dont show it, you dont have the 'coulter' assy (see @Jennifer manual under coulter)

[6wheeler 603]

Cool. I agree with the rest of the posters. Except?  I use heat. Penetrating oil works. But? takes a long time. If you have access to a torch? Take the adjuster off. Put it in a vice and heat it. When you do get it apart? Clean the threads (wire wheel or equivalent). When you re-assemble it? Put good grease on the threads and inside the barrel. Never seize gets crusty. Grease stays. Also? You are going to need a sleeve/slot hitch to mount it on a tractor. I can't see what you have on the disc for a hitch. I did make a adapter to put a slot hitch implement on a clevis hitch. But? I sold it with the plow and don't have any pics of it. Good Luck

[Pullstart 62,812]

1 hour ago, pacer said:

unless you dont show it, you dont have the 'coulter' assy

Most of my plowing is done without a coulter.  It seems to hang up field trash unless the grass or sod is super short and cleaned off to begin with. I’ve also noticed the coulter (in my area) doesn’t really cut into the sod, it just rolls on top.  Might be an adjustment, but I find that I can do wonders without.  

 

 

[Pullstart 62,812]

Here is a great instructional on plowing in general @TonyToro Jr. 

 

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,408]

Thank you with all the comments and help! But another question in @Pullstart ‘s  picture with his plow how does it raise and lower?? It’s it something with the Raise and Lower on the tractor? Also how does the plow hook up to the tractor it has a hitch on it so I’m guessing it hooks up to the regular hitch? I’m trying to learn all this on my own.

Edited June 4, 2022 by TonyToro Jr.

[Pullstart 62,812]

You’ll need the “slot hitch” on your tractor and a good lift cable.  These plows are heavy when they are under ground and seem to lift best for me when I’m moving.

 

here is a picture of a slot hitch in this ad I found. 

 

 

[peter lena 8,589]

@TonyToro Jr. , just did a recovery on a dozer blade/ frame set up , trying to get pictures / live movement shots,  you want  to elevate what you are working on , so you can roller stool around it , has to be staged so there is nothing to stop its original free hanging mount set up . thats vital , to rust run out movement , washer / firm up linkage points , red grease aerosol , extension tube , pin point , grease/ function . my plow frame steering quadrant , works like a like a rifle bolt smooth / solid . also detailed the squeeze lever rod points , removed the play , detailed function , firmed up leverage areas / grease . works like new . don't just  throw something at it , look at what its saposed to do , then firm up adjustment areas , washers and lube as you go , steering quadrant was packed with pine needles , just what I  was dealing with , its never a 1  and done , super lube , lubricating oil , small bottle , greasy pete  

[TonyToro Jr. 1,408]

Today we looked though all of our Wheel Horse stock pile and we found a sleeve hitch for the plow and we also found a lift cable for the tractor! Now we don’t need to spend any money buying a sleeve hitch! 

Edited June 6, 2022 by TonyToro Jr.

[peter lena 8,589]

@TonyToro Jr.  glad you found some stuff , make sure you soak down that cable and related pulleys . and related movement contact areas . this isn't  rocket science . do some detailing as you put things together , add washers and lubrication at  start  movement points , that firming up and easy operation , is better than a hammer and rust . often just the lever movement starting point , is not moving with ease or solid direction . start adding a lubricant as you go , ASSIST ITS FUNCTION SO YOU CAN SEE WHAT WORKS BEST , thats what I  do , red spray grease , super lube oil in small bottle , bearing cleanout and repack , hi temp grease . done this so often its just a regular recovery to me . let me know how you make out , keep digging , pete  

[peter lena 8,589]

@TonyToro Jr.   been using this for years on choke and throttle cables ,   https://www.zoro.com/super-lube-4-oz-hydraulic-oil-bottle-  only a reference point , for info, check out the temp specs , have this run into and out of all your cables and related linkage points , tell me how easily things move , like engine mounted linkage swing points , this is also a DIELECTRIC lubricant , very good for electrical assembly / grounding points . don't make me come over there , kidding , pete

[peter lena 8,589]

@TonyToro Jr.  when you do a cable lay out , make sure its  WHERE IT WANTS TO BE ,  that cable has a mind  of its own , after initial base mounting and finding out how it moves , any bend or clamp down point , can and will , increase drag . making small improvements as you go , really helps , I  also add a light spring  at the end of the cable , on the mount / control point arm . also lubricated for easy slide , that helps the cable slide to close / stop . that assist / lube/ and fitting , makes those cables work without effort . think about it , ever try to push a cable ?  spring lever assist and lube , makes that cable move with out effort , have that set up on my horses , keep sliding , pete