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Bucks

Fuel Pump decision

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Bucks

I have a raider 9 with tecumseh hh100 engine  and i seem to have a bad fuel pump.Are the old mechanical pumps repairable? and are there replacement pumps for this engine?

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ebinmaine

:text-welcomewave:

 

I haven't tried to rebuild a Tecumseh pump yet.

 

It's possible Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA may have one. 

 

There are a few folks changing over to using Facet electric pumps. That could be a good alternative.  

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roadapples

:WRS:

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Achto

:WRS:

Changing to an electric pump would be a great option.

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953 nut

:WRS:

:text-yeahthat:       an electric pump is the way to go. Quick starts and no more concern about the diaphragm leaking gas into the engine oil. 

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Bucks

appreciate the advice thanks

 

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Bucks

Thanks guys I ordered a in line fuel pump from a-z tractor.  I left the existing pump in place rather than blank it off . I removed the existing 90 degree gas hose fittings and replaced with same thread plugs on the pump. Easier than fabricating a blank if I removed the pump altogether.  thanks for your help and advice.

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Liberty work shop

My 520H must have had fuel pump issues because it had an electric on it when I got it ... Works great and I find that if I turn the key on and let the pump run until it brings up fuel pressure ( about four seconds before it shuts off ) , I barely have to choke it at all ... 

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Bucks

my new problem is where to mount the new electric pump. any suggestions?

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953 nut

Be sure to mount the electric pump lower than the bottom of the fuel tank, they are better pushers than suckers.

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Bucks

made some brackets and was able to mount new electric fuel pump below gas tank and just over the starter. its all under the hood and looks ok . now have gas to carb but it still won't start. thinking about replacing carb.  how  can you tell if its a tecumseh carb or another manufacturer.  the mechanical fuel pump had a square body that looked similar to kohler.  everything on the engine looks original.  my tecumseh engine model is HH100-115095B.  Its on my Raider 9.  Very hard tracking down parts for this.  Jacks small engine & toro parts came up empty.  Help!  thanks in advance.  

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, Bucks said:

made some brackets and was able to mount new electric fuel pump below gas tank and just over the starter. its all under the hood and looks ok . now have gas to carb but it still won't start. thinking about replacing carb.  how  can you tell if its a tecumseh carb or another manufacturer.  the mechanical fuel pump had a square body that looked similar to kohler.  everything on the engine looks original.  my tecumseh engine model is HH100-115095B.  Its on my Raider 9.  Very hard tracking down parts for this.  Jacks small engine & toro parts came up empty.  Help!  thanks in advance.  

Those carbs can be rebuilt. Carefully and thoroughly. 

 

Remove the fuel bowl and check for obvious immediate blockages.  

 

I highly recommend using an OE carb if at all possible. 

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Bucks

i removed bowl & cleaned used fine wire and opened port . i am getting gas to the bowl   also think i wired pump wrong will try again later   do you know where to get rebuild kits for this carb?  tractor was dormant for thirty plus years  I'm assuming it needs one.

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Blasterdad
1 hour ago, Bucks said:

i removed bowl & cleaned used fine wire and opened port . i am getting gas to the bowl   also think i wired pump wrong will try again later   do you know where to get rebuild kits for this carb?  tractor was dormant for thirty plus years  I'm assuming it needs one.

Fleabay has them, get an OEM one though, the China ones are junk. Have you checked to see if you're getting spark?

Edited by Blasterdad
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Bucks

I agree to stay away from the junk makers!   planned to check spark but now have a new problem  .engine not cranking at all. Im taking a break . heat & humidity are back with a vengeance.  thanks for your advice  and ill get back to ya when i hopefully make some progress.  still determined to resurrect this old girl  but little depressed at the moment.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Bucks said:

I agree to stay away from the junk makers!   planned to check spark but now have a new problem  .engine not cranking at all. Im taking a break . heat & humidity are back with a vengeance.  thanks for your advice  and ill get back to ya when i hopefully make some progress.  still determined to resurrect this old girl  but little depressed at the moment.

No worries. 

Just get a schematic diagram and start poking around. 

Remember...

It's a DC system.  

No ground or bad connection anywhere and you have no circuit.  

 

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Bucks

I believe I have the red fever, will dig into further thanks

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, Bucks said:

the red fever

You'll find on this site in particular there's quite a few who have it. 

Fortunately it's not curable.  

 

 

I started out with 1 Horse about 5 years ago. 

Trina got one shortly after. 

 

We now have 5 (her 3, me 2) that run n drive. 1 more soon. 2 projects left after that. 

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rjg854
14 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

1 more soon.

:laughing-rolling:

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ebinmaine

@rjg854

Well. 

 

I mean. 

 

You know in a slightly longer scale than some people might use....

I think it's safe to say that when I use the word SOON it might be on a slightly different setting of urgency and speed than some others.

😂

 

I've got that tecumsehorse partially disassembled and waiting for service. 

 

First things first though....

I have to get the new garage site emptied out before I can go back to messing with tractors much.

 

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rjg854

I was thinking a project called Collases or some such thing.  :teasing-neener:

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Bucks

yep starter still good  key switch bad  ordered new one. plugging along.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Bucks said:

yep starter still good  key switch bad  ordered new one. plugging along.

Did you find the letters stamped into the back near the terminals?

 

There are 2 predominant ignition switch types.   

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Bucks

yep starter still good  key switch bad  ordered new one. plugging along.  yeah but some un readable.  body of switch and terminals somewhat corroded.  i have the original schematic thanks to the forum.  switch should be a 3 post terminal  the one on the unit had 2 screw terminals and 3 spade terminals. original part #101482  is still available.  positions on that switch which i ordered are S  M  B.

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sparkie333
4 hours ago, Bucks said:

switch should be a 3 post terminal  the one on the unit had 2 screw terminals and 3 spade terminals. original part #101482  is still available.  positions on that switch which i ordered are S  M  B.

 

Hi--It is very important to use the correct switch-------I have a C160 Automatic with a Kohler 16HP engine. Good Luck

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