48" mower deck help.

[WheelHorse520H 708]

Greetings,

I have yet another question, this time regarding my 0548M0583222 mower deck from my 1988 520-H, currently on my 1993 416-H. I tried to take the blades of a month or so ago to sharpen them and grease the spindles after it had sat for 5 years. I was only able to get 1 loose as I do not have the thin wrench needed for this. I was mowing today when one blade loosened up and started vibrating, so I stopped and used a push mower to finish the yard. I think it could use a refresh with rebuilt spindles (is this even possible?) new blades, new belts, and a few holes patched. Where can I get all of this stuff and how do I go about doing this?

Thanks,

Andrew

 

 

[daveoman1966 3,745]

The best way to remove the blades is by using a pneumatic (air) impact wrench.  There is a 'touch' to tightening the nuts though, which only time will give you.  One must be VERY CAREFUL to not strip the spindle shaft threads when doing this.  Sharpening the blades is another technique, as they have to be balanced when sharpening or vibration MAY occurr....which can be detrimental to the low-end bearing.  These spindles can be rebuilt...at least as to bearings... but a badly corroded housing or stripped threads on either end of the spindle shaft ...you'll need to replace the spindle.  New spindles assemblies are available, but prepare for a price shock.  I have a GOOD USED spindle for your deck on Ebay item # 134124362911.            BTW...  when searching for parts, use the EXACT deck model # as 05-48MS05.  Also note that the spindles for 42 and 48" decks are identical.  https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro       

Edited May 28, 2022 by daveoman1966

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[WheelHorse520H 708]

Thanks to both of you, I had a set of old rusty dented blades that I used to practice sharpening and balancing. Is there a way to tell if the spindle needs to be rebuilt? They are not corroded and are not stripped. Where is the grease fitting for the center spindle? I went to the interwebs to find out but couldn't find anything.

Thanks again.

[JoeM 7,871]

12 minutes ago, WheelHorse520H said:

Is there a way to tell if the spindle needs to be rebuilt?

One thing I do is to remove the belt that runs all three pulleys and spin the blades by hand. Checking for roughness, or grinding noises. Sometimes debris will get caught between the blade cup and the lower bearing, this will cause roughness. You can grease the bearings and then turn then spindle as you go and see if anything improves. 

I always put a little grease on the blade nut threads when I tighten them, it allows a more even torque. Torque is 80-120 ft lbs. Don't put grease on the washers.

If your pulleys have lock washers under the nuts between the pulley and nut, new ones should be used, grade 8.

[WheelHorse520H 708]

5 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Torque is 80-120 ft lbs. Don't put grease on the washers.

I know there is a special wrench to hod the spindle while you tighten it, what else can I use since I don't have one? Thanks for the help.

Edited May 28, 2022 by WheelHorse520H

[JoeM 7,871]

I have not had to ever use that wrench. I believe it is an 1 1/8" You could get a cheap open end wrench and thin it down by a slow grinding. cooling it often.

I use a impact to tighten then check with a torques wrench.

One you get the nut snug you can place a block of wood in between the deck side and the blade to block movement and final torque. Generally there is enough drag by the blade to stop the rotation. 

You might consider blocking the top of the spindle at the pulley if necessary. Putting a block of wood between the belt and pulley to lock up the rotation. Just thinking. 

Edited May 28, 2022 by JoeM

[WheelHorse520H 708]

13 minutes ago, JoeM said:

I have not had to ever use that wrench. I believe it is an 1 1/8" You could get a cheap open end wrench and thin it down by a slow grinding. cooling it often.

I use a impact to tighten then check with a torques wrench.

One you get the nut snug you can place a block of wood in between the deck side and the blade to block movement and final torque. Generally there is enough drag by the blade to stop the rotation. 

You might consider blocking the top of the spindle at the pulley if necessary. Putting a block of wood between the belt and pulley to lock up the rotation. Just thinking. 

I'll try the air impact, it is 1-1/8". That much I figured out. Thanks for the help, I'll look into all this and let you all know what I find.

[peter lena 8,589]

@WheelHorse520H  I use a 6 pt socket and electric impact , or if needed a 6 pt box wrench . if you are going to rebuild those spindles , use lucas x-tra heavy duty chassis grease in those bearings , I clean out and repack the new bearings , typically the grease is not rated for high temp , and fails and gets noisy , also do the mule bearings , same bearing , same grease swap . you can get a die nut  to clean up those spindle threads . I use a small fine file on my blade sharpening , minimal metal removal , come out clean and sharp. since doing this grease conversion to my 3 decks , deck noise is very low , no whining  noisy bearings , decks work without effort .  those bearings get smoking hot , lucas grease is rated at 560 deg , anti sling , polyurea (  recovering ) rated . if you are right there in deck refitting , make it last ,and quiet running , just an idea, pete

[peter lena 8,589]

@WheelHorse520H  this is my deck rustproofing maintenance , combine this with the spindle grease , change , bombproof , pete

 

[WheelHorse520H 708]

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys, @peter lena if I do need to rebuild the spindles I'll certainly do that, I am always amazed how quiet it is with the engine at full throttle just after I disengage the PTO. I'd love to make it quieter.

[peter lena 8,589]

@WheelHorse520-H  chances are, those  8  related bearings , deck and mule , are the same size , without specific , hi temp lubricant , they are noisy (  whining  ) and fail early. had the same set up on mine , till I  changed out the grease with something made for , heat and hi stress. also went after all related linkage  / lever areas . that pto lever shaft start point next to battery rail area , was very sloppy and awkward at best , every time I  improved part of it , I  found another area , that was in need of functional improvement . once I  converted  1 tractor , I  duplicated it to the other  2 , now they are all set up the same way , at every , USED TO BE ,FAILURE AREA.  was fed up with the constant issues , thats what made me change things. really marvel at how easily things work now , basically needed to be detailed for function , for reliable , quiet use , pete   

[peter lena 8,589]

@WheelHorse520-H , verify what works , enhance that , check over possible , problem areas . electrical issues are rampant in the later bigger models . especially tight , chafing , corroded wire connection areas . if you were to just go over that , and improve / eliminate , a related issue , thats a start. next , go after rusty , stiff mechanical levers , connection areas , with lubricant , and washer up a sloppy connection , for a solid mechanical function . sounds like your related bearings , are probably the noise failure area in your deck set up .  every movement point has to be improved with hi temp  chassis grease , those bearings get smokin hot  and whine with lubricant failure . the time to stop the noise is at the deck rebuilding stage . every related bearing should have a 560 deg rated grease in it . get some help on this , done this on 3 decks , it works . pete  

[tomshorse4keeps 7]

First, let me say I absolutely agree, with everything, Wheelhorse 520H posted, on May 29.  In my experience, it is not "cost effective" to "rebuild" spindles, unless you only, need a new shaft, because of wear,  then, you can just slide a new one in. I prefer to cut my grass, very short. like a putting green. The problem I've encountered, is I have, to cut some grass, that borders, the sidewalk and if you have the deck, too low, eventually, the concrete, will wear the nut and the threaded end, of the spindle assembly shaft, so it is no longer safe. Unfortunately, I have also noticed, that the aluminum casting, that holds, the shaft and bearings also erodes, from  the constant abrasion, during cutting and the spindle mounting holes, loose their strength, as well and are, no longer safe. Its good to have a couple spindles available, but I usually buy, the whole spindle assembly. If you buy, the spindle assembly parts seperately, it cost more, than buying the complete spindle assembly and then,you need to remove old bearing, install new bearings ect. and put it all back together. Directly under the blade, between  the aluminum casting, the shaft, has a 1 1/8" hex collar. I am able, to fit a 1 1/8" Craftsman, long pattern wrench, between the spindle housing and the blade, its a tight fit, but I am able, to do it. If the wrench, is long enough, it will wedge aganist wall, of deck, so you can use the other wrench, to remove, exposed nut, You can probably find, a 1 1/8" combination wrench, on Amazon and as Wheelhorse 520H, already posted, if it is to thick, you ca grind it down, with a pedestal grinder, or even a small 4 1/2" portable electric grinder. Do not ignore, Wheelhorse 520H, tip to "quench" the wrench often, extremely important, to maintain hardness, of wrench.  As Wheelhorse 520H, already stated, When removing and reinstalling blades, a 2 x 4 block of wood, can be helpful. I have never, had to use, an impact wrench, always used two (2)  1 1/8" wrenches and never had a problem. The hardest part, is turning the deck over, back and forth and watch your toes, I've injured mine, several times, turning the deck right side up. GOOD LUCK !!!