C125 8 Speed won't turn over

[Jrblanke 857]

Hey guys,

I have a new to me C125 8 speed. I am not sure what year it is. The model number is faded off the sticker. So I haven’t looked up any wire diagrams. I assume all the years are the same, but wanted to get on here and ask. 

 

  Anyways, when I turn the key, nothing happens. I’ve had it running before. I am getting 12 volts to the coil, but when I turn the key to the start position, I don’t get any volts at the starter.

 

It turned over fine until I replaced the drive belt. I don’t think I touched the clutch switch, but Im not sure. I also found 2 blown 12 amp fuses under the seat pan when I pulled it to replace the drive belt. Might be some clues there about an electrical issue. Were all C125 8 speeds wired the same? If memory serves me correctly, my C120 had a pretty simple circuit and its just a matter of testing each switch until I find one that is not delivering the 12 volts to the starter when I turn the key.

[Pullstart 62,905]

Yeah, I’d start with a volt meter and chase power and it should lead you where you need to be 

[Jrblanke 857]

4 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Yeah, I’d start with a volt meter and chase power and it should lead you where you need to be 

 

I look pretty funny trying to hold the key in start, while pushing in the clutch, while holding the leads of the volt meter. I may try to rope the wife into sitting outside with me in the mosquitos and humidity. After all...it is her birthday today

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,905]

Try jumping out the clutch switch for troubleshooting, or maybe a tie down strap to pull the pedal forward?

[Handy Don 12,235]

1 minute ago, Pullstart said:

Try jumping out the clutch switch for troubleshooting, or maybe a tie down strap to pull the pedal forward?

Extra caution, here, if it starts you don't want it driving over you or into something! Rear on jack stands?

[squonk 41,150]

This thing got an ammeter? (and I hope you like rhubarb pie!)

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Early C-125's use a pto switch with 4 wires. Two control the ignition and the other two control the starter through the clutch pedal switch to the starter solenoid.

 

Late models use a 2-wire pto switch that powers the ignition switch with pto OFF. When the pto is ON the seat switch powers the ignition switch. No battery power directly to the ignition switch like we normally see. The ignition switch powers the neutral/clutch pedal switch and then to the starter solenoid.

 

Pto must be OFF or operator must be in the seat to have power at the ignition switch.

[varosd 1,185]

James,

•               You need to get up here in Asheville and we can fix it in the cool of the mountains.  LOL

[953 nut 55,298]

4 hours ago, Jrblanke said:

when I turn the key, nothing happens. I’ve had it running before. I am getting 12 volts to the coil, but when I turn the key to the start position, I don’t get any volts at the starter.

 

James, since you have 12 volts at the coil with the key on the problem is at or beyond the ignition switch.

There should be a red wire from the "S" terminal of your ignition switch to the PTO switch then to the clutch switch and ending on the small terminal of your starter solenoid. With the transmission in neutral, take a small jumper from the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the starter solenoid where the red wire goes. At the very least you should get a click from the solenoid. If the starter turns over then do an inspection of the wires along the path from the ignition switch to solenoid. Make sure they have good tight connections and the wires are good. You can put a temporary jumper from the goes in to the goes out side of each safety switch along the red wire to see if the switch is the problem. The attached drawing should help. If you have an engine Spec. number that could help us know for sure what year it is.

[Achto 27,601]

5 hours ago, Jrblanke said:

After all...it is her birthday today

 

Happy birthday Mrs. @Jrblanke 

[Jrblanke 857]

15 hours ago, squonk said:

This thing got an ammeter? (and I hope you like rhubarb pie!)

It does! Oh man! I've only has rhubarb one time, and that's when you brought some to Van! 

[Jrblanke 857]

14 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Early C-125's use a pto switch with 4 wires. Two control the ignition and the other two control the starter through the clutch pedal switch to the starter solenoid.

 

Late models use a 2-wire pto switch that powers the ignition switch with pto OFF. When the pto is ON the seat switch powers the ignition switch. No battery power directly to the ignition switch like we normally see. The ignition switch powers the neutral/clutch pedal switch and then to the starter solenoid.

 

Pto must be OFF or operator must be in the seat to have power at the ignition switch.

 

Excellent! Great feedback here

[Jrblanke 857]

11 hours ago, varosd said:

James,

•               You need to get up here in Asheville and we can fix it in the cool of the mountains.  LOL

 

Don I try to stay away from Ashville unless there are some craft beers waiting for me! Glad to see you made it back to NC!

[Jrblanke 857]

11 hours ago, 953 nut said:

 

James, since you have 12 volts at the coil with the key on the problem is at or beyond the ignition switch.

There should be a red wire from the "S" terminal of your ignition switch to the PTO switch then to the clutch switch and ending on the small terminal of your starter solenoid. With the transmission in neutral, take a small jumper from the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the starter solenoid where the red wire goes. At the very least you should get a click from the solenoid. If the starter turns over then do an inspection of the wires along the path from the ignition switch to solenoid. Make sure they have good tight connections and the wires are good. You can put a temporary jumper from the goes in to the goes out side of each safety switch along the red wire to see if the switch is the problem. The attached drawing should help. If you have an engine Spec. number that could help us know for sure what year it is.

 

Thanks for the write up! And thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction. The rain is suposed to let up tonight, so I hope to make some progress very soon. 

 

I'll also report back on the spec number.

 

 

[Jrblanke 857]

Well boys and girls, here is the update. I changed the drive belt last week, and when I loosened the pulley, the little tab that depresses the PTO switch moved enough that it did not engage the safety switch. D'oh! Thanks for all the help guys!

[peter lena 8,634]

@Jrblanke  your detail point about switch engagement , is something that I  look for in all problem areas . rarely is a problem one and done , its part of an activation of function . detail related linkage and lever function with rust run out lubrication and washer firming up end / start connections , often makes areas work seamlessly . like a jumpy clutch pedal , if you detail lube every , movement point , and washer it up , for a more secure movement point , it works with a solid smooth ease , and no jumping , just a thought , greasy , pete 

[Jrblanke 857]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Jrblanke  your detail point about switch engagement , is something that I  look for in all problem areas . rarely is a problem one and done , its part of an activation of function . detail related linkage and lever function with rust run out lubrication and washer firming up end / start connections , often makes areas work seamlessly . like a jumpy clutch pedal , if you detail lube every , movement point , and washer it up , for a more secure movement point , it works with a solid smooth ease , and no jumping , just a thought , greasy , pete 

 

Pete, how did you know I had a jumpy pedal? Were you hiding in the bushes last night when I put it in 3rd and did a wheelie into the street?

 

In all seriousness, I do need to give it some attention like you are describing. 

[peter lena 8,634]

@Jrblanke  no I wasn't  hiding but I  could hear it !  typically , problems that build up / compound , continue to work to a degree. but then are also ignored , because you can still run. that clutch pedal and related saposed to be movement points , can easily be improved . note the engine to rear end drive belt , idler cross frame shaft , ever lubricated ? idler pulley noisy ? obviousely ,pedal related grease points . linkage ends sloppy ? washer firm up and lubrication . this  is basic stuff , chassis greased ? , lift front end , to get grease in axel spindle top  discharge , proof its getting all of it .steering fan gear ? how about some super lube oil , in the ends of your throttle / choke cables ? and related linkage . ever change your, trans oil ? how about a torn shift boot ?. don't make me come down there !  only kidding , hope you get to the basics , electrical corrosion ?  hope you get to some of it , greasy , pete

[Jrblanke 857]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Jrblanke  no I wasn't  hiding but I  could hear it !  typically , problems that build up / compound , continue to work to a degree. but then are also ignored , because you can still run. that clutch pedal and related saposed to be movement points , can easily be improved . note the engine to rear end drive belt , idler cross frame shaft , ever lubricated ? idler pulley noisy ? obviousely ,pedal related grease points . linkage ends sloppy ? washer firm up and lubrication . this  is basic stuff , chassis greased ? , lift front end , to get grease in axel spindle top  discharge , proof its getting all of it .steering fan gear ? how about some super lube oil , in the ends of your throttle / choke cables ? and related linkage . ever change your, trans oil ? how about a torn shift boot ?. don't make me come down there !  only kidding , hope you get to the basics , electrical corrosion ?  hope you get to some of it , greasy , pete

 

 

Easy killer, I just got this tractor last month  And it was free!! woo hoo! I will say, the steering feels like it is higher quality than my 312H with 450hrs. But you are absolutely right, the C125 does need some love! I did change the shifter boot last night, and i power washed it after removing the seat pan, belt guard, and shifter plate. It deserves more lovin! Trying to decide whether I mow with it this season, and sell my 312H, or do I keep this one. The only problem Im seeing with it is that it burns oil. I'm going to run some of that "engine restore" snake oil stuff to see what that does. It seems to "boost" compression and "help" the rings. We'll see how it goes. Oh and if you come down, you gotta bring some lobster rolls!

[peter lena 8,634]

@Jrblanke  been using rislone products for years , use this zinc concentrate with every rotella # 30 , oil change ,https://www.amazon.com/Rislone-4405-Supplement-Concentrate-Treatment/dp/B0075559UY/ref=sr_ , on line is best price , did not know you got that as a freebie !  once I started using zinc , read instructions on back of bottle , very easy. those hot oil changes were like flushing black coal oil , noticed an easier running engine , never had any oil issues , have zinc in all my engines now , they run with total ease , get  that  engine restore , hot and hours on it , the flushing and probably varnish cutting , will help the engine . you are establishing a baseline service , maybe never had regular oil changes . regularly use STA BIL  in all my fuels , glad you are on it , use lucas x-tra heavy duty grease , 560 hi temp , polyurea , anti sling , stays with your stuff , stay in touch , good talking , pete