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Gregor

A truck question

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Gregor

My son bought a used Dodge Ram 1500. He also has a 32' pull behind, bumper hitch camper. I fear the suspension on this truck is not going to handle a trailer that size. It has leaf springs, and no coil springs, so air bags are not an option. Would air shocks help? Would they handle the load?

Thanks  Greg

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adsm08

Airbags most certainly are an option, and I would 100% look in to those. Air shocks are a joke. I had a pair on my trucks, and even with them pumped to their max rated pressure I was still able to hit the bed sides on the tires. Coil-over helper shocks would be better, which is what I have now. I would do both.

 

Also, for that much weight behind that small a truck a load distributing hitch is a must. It will help put some of that tongue weight back on the camper's suspension.

 

I must ask though, being that the truck is used, what condition is the puppy in? I mean, it's probably a full grown dog by now.

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lynnmor

Typical tail wagging the dog setup.  A 1500 grocery getter is not the tool for the job.  Tires, wheels, brakes, springs and frame may not be adequate.  Tell him to get a smaller camper or a bigger truck.

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953 nut
42 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

a load distributing hitch is a must.

:text-yeahthat:           The most important consideration is safety. The truck must have good brakes, suspension components and tires. The trailer's weight is another consideration. Check the towing capacity of the truck and double the weight of the trailer by time you outfit it for travel. Don't skimp on the frame hitch and trailer brake controller, they are vital to a safe trip.

Air shocks and even air bags aren't the answer, a load distributing hitch will place the load on all four of the tow vehicles tires increasing the stability of the ride. In 1974 I towed a 30' travel trailer all over the country with a 1967 Oldsmobile 98. The Reese weight distributing hitch and antisway system made it a very comfortable safe ride. The trailer brakes were doing more than 50% of the braking which kept us straight.

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Racinbob

It depends on the towing capacity of your truck. What's it rated at? What does the trailer weigh? If the numbers are good then it's a matter of setting things up right. Rear spring assist doesn't hurt but DO NOT use coil overs, air bags, shocks, etc. to level things out. The tongue weight not only squats the truck it removes weight from the front of the truck. You need to get that back and the cheaters won't do it. With the trailer unhooked and level determine the ball height needed and used the correct ball mount. Make note of the height of the truck at both axles. For example, I towed a 30' Dutchman with my F-150. To add what some might say is insult to injury it had the incredible 300 CI straight 6. Once hooked up the truck dropped 2" at the rear axle and raised 1" at the front. I adjusted the weight distributing hitch and brought the front back down to normal and the rear got back 1" of the 2". I used 2 adjustable sway controls and adjusted them for until I was happy with the feel. As Richard said, make sure you have the correct frame hitch and a quality brake controller. This rig towed like it was on railroad tracks and the torque of that engine kept me moving just fine. OK, I'll grant you that I did use the slow lane going up mountain slopes. :)

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953 nut
11 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

I did use the slow lane going up mountain slopes.

The Oldsmobile could tow at highway speeds going up a mountain grade if I were fulish to do so, but then I would have too much momentum built up once we crested the peak and there was no need of burning up the brakes.

Anyone who is about to embark on a trailer towing vacation needs to watch this first.            :ROTF:

Adolph Duetsch, Bronislau Kaper - The Long, Long Trailer / Forever,  Darling: Original Motion Picture Soundtrack - Music

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squonk
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

. In 1974 I towed a 30' travel trailer all over the country with a 1967 Oldsmobile 98. 

455 Rocket? :banana-wrench::auto-camptrailer:

 

Find more Oldsmobile 455 Rocket Big Block for sale at up to 90% off

Edited by squonk
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lynnmor
44 minutes ago, squonk said:

455 Rocket? :banana-wrench::auto-camptrailer:

 

 

Probably a 425 high compression engine before emissions neutered them.

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Gregor

I know the 1500 is probably not adequate to pull the camper, and I told him that before he bought it, but budget restraints sometimes limit what a person can and should do.  The truck seems to be in relatively good condition. He does have a load distributing hitch, with anti-sway. I don't know that it's possible to put air bags on a truck with out coil springs. If it is, I don't know how. The trailer weighs 6285#. I don't know the tongue weight.

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squonk

Superior Automotive Helper Spring Coil Design | 9651627 | Pep Boys

 

I had these on a 78 1/2 ton Chevy pu. When empty they just sit there. Add a good load and the frame would settle a bit and the yellow pads would contact the frame. 

 

 

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squonk
58 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Probably a 425 high compression engine before emissions neutered them.

Super Rocket ! :banana-wrench::banana-wrench::auto-camptrailer:

 

425 Olds Super Rocket | The H.A.M.B.

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8ntruck

I've got a 2015 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 Hemi without any towing equipment options.  It is rated for somewhere between 6000 and 8000 pounds with 30 square feet of frontal area on the trailer - working from memory here.  We have a light weight 17' Coleman trailer that tows well on a non weight distributing hitch.  I've towed our Jeep Cherokee on a U Haul transport trailer too.  Not as comfortable as the Coleman, as the toung weight is higher.

 

Check the specs on the tow vehicle and don't exceed them for best results.

 

Talking about Olsmobile tow vehicles, one of the engineers I worked with told stories about his inlaw's Olds 88.  They ordered it new, speced out to tow their Airstream trailer.  It was a 4 door, had the big high compression V8, a floor shifted 4 speed and 4:11 rear end gears.  Said it could keep up with traffic from a stop light while towing the trailer.

Edited by 8ntruck
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wh500special

In that movie, Lucy and Desi had a trick up their sleeve:  their trailer had a slimp dolly. 
 

Don’t see those - ever - these days. 
 

Steve

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stevasaurus

You may be able to go to a good truck/trailer shop and get a leaf spring added to your rear end.  They could re-arch them also if needed.  :eusa-think:

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squonk

My brother had a printing business and had a Chevy S-10 for a delivery truck. He had a leaf added to it and had to keep weight in the back so when he went over RR tracks the bounce didn't put his head thru the roof! :lol:

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wallfish
1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I don't know that it's possible to put air bags on a truck with out coil springs. If it is, I don't know how.

Order them and install them. something like these. Mine used the space for the rubber stops. Shop around as there will be different quality and different bells and whistles.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31029&msclkid=32c85e24d1601600b7033cadd6c23dd2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC - Air Bags (B)&utm_term=4582008550965100&utm_content=Air Bags (Air Lift)

I did suspension airbags on 2 Chevy 1500 Express vans (no coil springs on those either ) because we started to carry more weight in them. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable using them to tow a big camper on a 1500 vehicle but they work great for handling the heavier loads inside the vans. :twocents-02cents:

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JPWH

I had the air lift that @wallfish referred to installed on my 2000 1500 Silverado(no coil springs) 23 years ago and they are holding up fine. My only regret is I did not get the on board compressor. I tow a 30 camper and use a weight distribution hitch.

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Kenneth R Cluley

I tow an older Starcraft 25' camper with all the weight distribution hitch and trailer brake. Make sure when set up that the trailer is level on hitch. That trailer probably has dual axles, and you must keep them as level as possible so as not to overload one set of tires and create blow-out problems. Seen many going down road with one axle carrying the entire load.  

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953 nut

In my opinion there is no need for air bags, added leaf springs or any other suspension alterations for trailer towing alone. The weight distributing hitch and a good quality frame hitch with the proper height ball as @Racinbob pointed out is all that is needed. Changing the truck's suspension can give you a false since of security. The rear end will not go down as much but the load on the front suspension can be lightened causing poor front braking and steering. The tongue weight will be distributed to all four axles once the hitch is properly set up. The front and rear of the truck will each ride a bit lower once the torsion bars are properly loaded.

Set up the hitch on a level spot long enough for the truck and both trailer axles. Put a piece of tape at the same height off the ground on all four corners of the truck set to the unloaded height. When the torsion bars are properly adjusted each corner will be lower by the same amount and as @Kenneth R Cluley pointed out the trailer axles will not be torqued.

8 hours ago, Gregor said:

The trailer weighs 6285#. I don't know the tongue weight.

Is that the dry (empty) weight or the actual weight when they have all their stuff in it? Depending on the engine size and rear end ratio that is about the maximum it is rated for.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBONjPJTiLoD5

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Racinbob

Exactly as Richard said. Air bags, coil overs, extra leafs, etc. will keep the rear from sagging but it does nothing for distributing the weight which needs to be done for a safe setup. A 3/4 or 1 ton may be more forgiving but it still needs to be done. :)

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lynnmor

When the proper amount of weight has been returned to the front axle via a weight distribution hitch, the rear may or may not sag too much.  I have an F250 diesel and the rear springs are weak, a known issue, they sag to the overloads with a smaller trailer smaller than the one in question, so i added Air-Lifts with an onboard compressor.  Cranking on a WDH to level the truck is not correct, you transfer the proper weight and do what you must for the suspension, if needed.

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lynnmor

I see that @953 nut is confused by what I wrote, what is confusing about transferring the right amount of weight and leveling if needed?

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953 nut
On 5/21/2022 at 9:25 PM, lynnmor said:

  Cranking on a WDH to level the truck is not correct,

One of the primary goals with a weight distributing hitch is to keep you safe in the event of an abrupt stop. If you haven't set the hitch properly and have to make a panic stop the force of the trailer tongue weight on your hitch will increase substantially. This will cause the front wheels of the tow vehicle to have reduced weight (Traction) and you will have less control of the tow vehicle. Adding rear suspension enhancements like air bags or helper springs will not overcome the laws of physics, the effective tongue weight will be transferred to the rear wheels of the tow vehicle and the front  end will become lighter and have less traction.

Please take a few minutes and read a few articles from hitch manufacturers or trailer forums on the internet and you will find out why hitch setup is so important,

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lynnmor
35 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

 

Please take a few minutes and read a few articles from hitch manufacturers or trailer forums on the internet and you will find out why hitch setup is so important,

 

I have been doing this for half a century.  If the rear springs on the truck are too weak, you simply fix that problem.

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Racinbob

If the springs are weak yes, definitely get them fixed but not only because you want to tow. This isn't a thread about worn out trucks. But like Richard said, the law of physics still applies. The same weight will still be lifted off the front. You must start with the truck at its normal height and the trailer level. Then start with the measurements and set it up as I mentioned. There are many adjustments on a weight distributing hitch including ball angle, bar strength, etc. This should be done with the trailer loaded for a typical trip. Make sure you favor the front of the trailer with the heavier equipment but don't go overboard. We've had numerous travel trailers over the decades and no two are the same. I always used the same Reese hitch equipment and twin adjustable Eaz-Lift sway controls. Not an endorsement but just my preference. There's a lot of good stuff out there. I've been accused of 'overkilling' it and that might be true in some folks minds but I say that's impossible. There will always be the time(s) when you'll need to make a drastic maneuver and I've never had to wish I'd taken my setup a bit further. :)

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