Coco 5 #1 Posted May 15, 2022 Bought my first house a few weeks ago and my dad gave me my grandfather's old 520H. I know very little about these. Hadn't run in probably 15 years so I was a little surprised when, after realizing someone stole a spark plug out of it, it fired right up and ran like a top. It's definitely seen better days, but all things considered it seems to be in good shape. Gave it a new battery and front tire yesterday and was able to mow with it. Has some quirks, FNR is currently just FN, which I understand is common. Surges every once in a while, I suspect carb is dirty. Biggest issue is sometimes it'll randomly bog down and stall unless you shut the pto off quick. You can ease it back on and it'll get up to speed, but if you push the lever the rest of the way it'll stall again. Doesn't make sense to me, but like I said, I don't know anything about these. Anyway, mostly wanted to say hi and ask if there's anything else to look out for on a 700 hour tractor. Definitely needs engine and hydro oil changed before I run it again, anything else to put on my list? 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,209 #2 Posted May 15, 2022 26 minutes ago, Coco said: FNR is currently just FN, which I understand is common. Read thru this thread for possible causes and fixes. to the 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #3 Posted May 15, 2022 Yes, the carburetor may need to be removed and cleaned properly, but before that you should clean the fuel tank and replace the screen inside. All fuel lines should be replaced. As you already know, all filters and fluids need to be replaced. Get the belt guards back on before you have an accident. The intermittent issues may be related to switches and connections. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coco 5 #4 Posted May 16, 2022 55 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Get the belt guards back on before you have an accident. First thing I did after picking up tires yesterday I should also mention I replaced a few broken grease fittings and lubed everything I could find, will have to print a manual and go through it more in depth. All Toro brand filters are on order, I'll have to pick up some fuel line when I get oil next weekend Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #6 Posted May 16, 2022 Welcome!! Run a compression check on both cylinders. Should be around 120 psi on each. Having a spark plug out makes me nervous. Onans are known for valve seat issues on the rear cylinder. If everything is good, consider removing the engine tins and cleaning the cooling fins. Be advised, Onans can be tricky to work on. Also, check and clean the terminals on the 9 pin connector as that can cause some of the problems you were experiencing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #8 Posted May 16, 2022 Welcome, Surging/dying is USUALLY a dirty carb or air filter, or both. My C-120 started dying out last week mowing, it's very well maintained so I pretty much knew the air filter was plugged up, sure enough packed FULL. I was mowing a very dry/dusty side lot for the first time this year, doesnt take long to clog up a filter in those conditions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coco 5 #9 Posted May 16, 2022 I'll do a compression check next week, it was stored inside but I was still worried about rust in the cylinder until it turned over okay. I guess it was fortunate the missing plug was for the front cylinder. It got a nice double iridium plug out of my small block S10, still need to replace the rear. Air filter is clean, I'm pretty confident it's a fuel issue, either in the carb or delivery. But she does need blown out good with the air hose, fuse block especially was packed when we got it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,016 #10 Posted May 16, 2022 to the forum. Good bunch of folks here on this forum. Collectively, we've broken and fixed most everything on a Wheel Horse. Willing to share advice, too. Shell Rotella is a good choice for engine oil. It is designed for use in desel engines, but works well in our small old engines with their older bearing technologies and non-roller camshaft. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coco 5 #11 Posted May 16, 2022 Any recommendations for the trans or the same? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,759 #12 Posted May 16, 2022 2 hours ago, Coco said:I'll have to pick up some fuel line when I get oil next weekend Get some ethanol resistant fuel line if possible. Consider ethanol free gas if you can find it near you. Ethanol sitting in these machines can really gunk them up 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coco 5 #13 Posted May 16, 2022 7 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: Consider ethanol free gas if you can find it near you Stopped at Sheetz in transport and got 10 gallons of ethanol free. Only cost me an arm and a leg🙃 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #14 Posted May 16, 2022 57 minutes ago, Coco said: Any recommendations for the trans or the same? Good info here... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 812 #15 Posted May 16, 2022 hello coco, one of our vendors makes a nice plastic fuse block cover. you may want to ventilate the belt guard to get rid of rear cylinder heat. also another vendor makes a nice foot control for forward and reverse your grandfather had good taste in tractors! mike in mass. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #16 Posted May 16, 2022 3 hours ago, Coco said: It got a nice double iridium plug out of my small block S10, still need to replace the rear. I kinda doubt that the spark plug you used is correct. NGK # TR4/3754 Crosses to Champion # RS17YX/909, I would use the NGK since Champion quality has been poor for some years. We have plenty more for you to do after you get it running right. I use Castrol semi-synthetic high mileage 10W-30 oil in the transmission and Kohler 30W in the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,307 #17 Posted May 16, 2022 5 hours ago, Coco said: I should also mention I replaced a few broken grease fittings and lubed everything I could find, will have to print a manual and go through it more in depth. It is best to jack up the front by the frame or front hitch when greasing the three axle fittings, that allows grease to flow to where it is needed. Those three fittings lubricate the cast iron axle and there are no bushings so it is a major job to repair. I grease them often and flush out the dirt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coco 5 #18 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) I'm sure it's not the right plug. We were just in a rush to get it running and on the trailer so we could hit the road before it poured. Too expensive to be using them in this anyhow. Appreciate all the advice by the way Edited May 16, 2022 by Coco 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,464 #19 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) Coco if you are not good with carbs, I use this to help. Works well. My old hands do not work well with small parts. Edited May 16, 2022 by Retierd Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites