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Wheelhorse#1

Deck repair

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Wheelhorse#1

Trying to mock  up to add the tunnels under the deck,they were missing and it definitely doesn’t cut well with out them.

Trying to figure out a way to fasten them ,no welder here.What gage steel would be good to use that would be still flexible enough to bend yet strong enough ?

Anyone have any ideas or experience with this? 
thx 

9C83B687-1472-4376-900A-E025F2A4DC05.jpeg

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daveoman1966

Looks good.  If it was me doin' this, I'd use GALVANIZED sheetmetal...as from fixing a rusted out car fender. Attached with 3/16" pop-rivets.  The galv will last for years and years to come, easy to work with, cheap to buy too. If you EVER have to rep;ace, also easy to do.  Instead of welding, when you make the 'tunnels', make them an inch or so wider than needed, then fold over the extra 1", cutting every few inches to create a 'TAB' that you can drill thru to attach with pop rivets.     

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pacer

Your mock up looks great! and @daveoman1966 suggestion is very good and should be doable with common shop tools.

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Wheelhorse#1

Thanks all .Excellent idea daveoman1966  I been needing a pop rivet gun anyway.Should be easy enough.

Ill post up  when completed .

Off to harbor fraud and get material. 

 

 

 

Edited by Wheelhorse#1

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Handy Don

I heartily suggest NOT going cheap on the pop rivet tool. Get one that handles multiple diameters of rivet shaft and has excellent leverage. The part that fails on these tools is where the tool grabs the stem of the rivet.

Also, be sure to use stainless steel pop rivets (aluminum will not play well with galvanized metal and regular steel will rust quickly).

 

It looks like someone with good welding skills already did some very clean repairs on that deck.

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peter lena

@Wheelhorse#1  what's the cutting issue ? have  3 of those r/d decks with no baffling at all ,cutting is always good with zero trailing , cut at highest setting , sharp blades . alternate cutting angles always changing pattern. another thing is your smooth clean underside , been doing that  same type of oil soaking to stop rot for years . just curious , pete

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Wheelhorse#1

Well the repair will have to wait. Im not about to pay $25 bucks for a piece of 8x25 sheet of galvanized sheet metal .One store had nothing in stock.Days of cheap are gone.

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Handy Don
2 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

Well the repair will have to wait.

Hope your are not holding your breath.....

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Wheelhorse#1
1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Wheelhorse#1  what's the cutting issue ? have  3 of those r/d decks with no baffling at all ,cutting is always good with zero trailing , cut at highest setting , sharp blades . alternate cutting angles always changing pattern. another thing is your smooth clean underside , been doing that  same type of oil soaking to stop rot for years . just curious , pete

 

Yes Pete.Those tunnels or baffles give lift.Lifting the grass up for a more even cut.Its probably good enough but I can can tell and it bothers me.

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Wheelhorse#1
Just now, Handy Don said:

Hope your are not holding your breath.....

 

No sir.ill get scraps from work.thanks Biden !

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Wheelhorse#1
3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

I heartily suggest NOT going cheap on the pop rivet tool. Get one that handles multiple diameters of rivet shaft and has excellent leverage. The part that fails on these tools is where the tool grabs the stem of the rivet.

Also, be sure to use stainless steel pop rivets (aluminum will not play well with galvanized metal and regular steel will rust quickly).

 

It looks like someone with good welding skills already did some very clean repairs on that deck.

 

Don I bought the top of the line at harbor fraud, 25 bucks worth.well it cost more so it should be better...right ? Yes the PO did lots of welding and didn't scrimp on steel.It probably weights more than a 1965 four door Buick.    

Edited by Wheelhorse#1
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roadapples

Since you've already got those pieces made I would use them. They should last for years. And being pop riveted they will be easy to replace when you get galvanized or stainless...

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Jeff-C175
3 hours ago, roadapples said:

pieces made I would use them. They should last for years

 

Corrugated cardboard?

 

:ychain:

 

 

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Wheelhorse#1
5 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Corrugated cardboard?

 

:ychain:

 

 

 

Yes.Just a mock up to make sure I had placement right. 

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roadapples
11 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Corrugated cardboard?

 

:ychain:

 

 

Oops, hard to see on this little phone :scratchead:

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Jeff-C175
11 minutes ago, roadapples said:

Oops, hard to see on this little phone :scratchead:

 

Happens to me all the time!

 

 

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Jeff-C175
33 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

 

Yes.Just a mock up to make sure I had placement right. 

 

I've got some steel, galvanized, that would be suitable, but the road trip to pick it up would be more expensive than the free material!

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Wheelhorse#1
1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

I've got some steel, galvanized, that would be suitable, but the road trip to pick it up would be more expensive than the free material!

 

 

 

Thanks for the offer.Jeff.Its the thought that count.

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