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Monstrosity

My first Wheel Horse

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Hey, I powder coated my steel wheels on both my Wheel Horses… and you didn’t stop me !

 

You set me up for failure !  :lol:

 

I still like you though for supplying the rear fender for the Work Horse…👍

 

Naw wheels are different. You can have them re-coated whenever without restoring something twice. Hoods and fenders have decals. Wheels are simple.

 

That being said, I don't like powder coat on anything. But it might be better these days. I've just seen it pop off too many times due to a tiny bit of corrosion that was missed in prep. 

Edited by kpinnc
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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

Naw wheels are different. You can have them re-coated whenever without restoring something twice. Hoods and fenders have decals. Wheels are simple.

 

That being said, I don't like powder coat on anything. But it might be better these days. I've just seen it pop off too many times due to a tiny bit of corrosion that was missed in prep. 

Yeah, you know I was just poking at ya’.

 

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kpinnc
18 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Yeah, you know I was just poking at ya’.

 

 

I knew that. All good! :thumbs:

 

Some folks swear by powder coating. I've had less than desirable results. It's all what you get used to. No doubt it's a durable coating, tougher than any other I know of. But that itself can create problems when touch ups are needed. Just my opinion.

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Monstrosity

So found out why it felt like it was flexing a I came up the grade at an angle the transaxle mounting plate on the frame has cracked around all four holes... a little set back but glad I found it now. Been busy cleaning up the yard for Memorial day been attacking this between 5am-6am. I picked up Majik IH Red oil based enamel paint and a spray gun from the China freight well see how it works.

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ebinmaine

Definitely a common issue on the Horses Monster.

Plate replacement would obviously be preferred ... Fairly easy fix with even bolt-on Parts if you don't have Fab skills or a welder.

I'll share a thread link in a minute.   

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ebinmaine

 

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Monstrosity

@ebinmaine excellent ideas thank you!

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Monstrosity

So this is the fix I had laying around. A customer of mine did me a solid, welding it up I just wished he welded the inside edge instead of the outside but I cannot complain. Just need to drill mounting holes.

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Monstrosity

Slowly getting back together! I just got my gallon of of IH red paint, just need hardener now and to get these damn cement wheel weights they won't come out... Now I'm making a mess.. I wanted to split the case while everything was getting paint but looks like that's happening later on now.. tractor is going to be 2 toned with a charcoal grey

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, Monstrosity said:

and to get these damn cement wheel weights they won't come out...

Corroded into perma-position?

 

If you can access the inside of the wheel with a long puncher poker pusher maybe beat them from inside out through the carriage bolt holes?

 

Best bet might be an impact hammer/chisel from either side. 

 

Certainly would be a great idea to get them out while you're at this stage and get new seals in the transmission. 

 

 

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lynnmor
10 hours ago, Monstrosity said:

Slowly getting back together! I just got my gallon of of IH red paint, just need hardener now and to get these damn cement wheel weights they won't come out... Now I'm making a mess.. I wanted to split the case while everything was getting paint but looks like that's happening later on now.. tractor is going to be 2 toned with a charcoal grey

 

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We had a ugly seat contest, it now may be time for a ugly wheel weight contest.  :roll:

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Monstrosity
5 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

 

We had a ugly seat contest, it now may be time for a ugly wheel weight contest.  :roll:

 

Go for it 🤣🤣 that's after I've been trying to chip it away tried to get behind and hit studs but they are starting to mushroom and bend...... I can only attack this mid day and I'm never home mid day lol 

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Monstrosity

Never used a spray gun before and I cheated out on an electric sprayer... RUN DMX definitely sprayed these pieces... And omg what a mess... I think next time I'll stick with my rattle cans but..... I like how thick the oil based enamel paint from majic is and yes I used reducer and hardener. All I have to say is praise the lord I had a can of mineral spirits.... 

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Monstrosity

Updates need help what color to paint the engine I'm 2 toning the hood charcoal grey.... should I paint the engine red or grey? Don't mind the HUGE RUNS the hood fell off the stand when wet into the grass...... and I put a generous amount back on the top so I can sand it flat when the grey gets sprayed.

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, Monstrosity said:

2 toning the hood charcoal grey.... should I paint the engine red or grey?

'round these pahts we likes our engines to contrast.  

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Monstrosity

So the battery is not charging..... I believe I have wired evening correctly. I have ignition power going to F terminal of generator switch.. from that terminal it then goes to F on the voltage regulator which is mounted grounded to the generator. Switched power to the other terminal on the generator for starting. I have a wire coming from the positive on the battery to batt terminal on regulator. There's a third terminal on the regulator that I believe is for accessories I've followed the wiring diagrams in the manuals and I'm baffled. I don't have my DMM in the home tool box I'll be bringing that home tonight. Any ideas? Something I'm missing?

Thanks!!!!

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Handy Don

The wiring diagram will be your best friend here, but I have to ask how you know the battery isn't charging?

Could be wiring, a bad battery, or, if you are using an ammeter, a bad meter--in that order of likeliness! If the wiring's been modified, then bets are off.

 

Also, be careful about getting creative with wiring (including "jumping" connections) unless you are real sure of what you are up to. Twelve volts isn't a lot, but a good battery can deliver a hefty bit of current. I have a battery that someone dead-shorted with a jumper that melted the negative terminal right down to a puddle.

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Monstrosity
21 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

The wiring diagram will be your best friend here, but I have to ask how you know the battery isn't charging?

Could be wiring, a bad battery, or, if you are using an ammeter, a bad meter--in that order of likeliness! If the wiring's been modified, then bets are off.

 

Also, be careful about getting creative with wiring (including "jumping" connections) unless you are real sure of what you are up to. Twelve volts isn't a lot, but a good battery can deliver a hefty bit of current. I have a battery that someone dead-shorted with a jumper that melted the negative terminal right down to a puddle.

 

 

I'm very good with 12 volt. I install emergency lighting in emergency vehicles. Anywhere from fire apparatus to tow trucks. Following the diagram is easy. Which is why I'm stumped. It's a brand new battery and dies after a few runs after I fully charge it the tractor has no Amp meter or jumping outside of how the wiring diagram was. This is a first time I'm messing around with a starter/generator system that has an external regulator. The regulator is brand new and generator was repaired by me from the winding having a short because of a nick in the cloth sheathing. Cleaned up and new brushes and spring installed too.

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Handy Don

Glad to hear more background on this and that you have good experience and skills, thanks. I personally would hesitate to attempt to repair an S/G.

 

So going to basics, it seems like you want to confirm that the S/G is actually putting out juice when spinning then confirm that the juice is getting out of the regulator and over to the battery.

 

It's working as a starter, right? So it is grounded. Is the regulator well grounded as well? An S/G can do starting even if the regulator is broken or not grounded. There have been a few recent threads that refer to diagnostics for S/Gs and for how the regulators work.

 

Here are links to a couple:

Field test

Full Field event

Another

 

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Monstrosity
On 7/15/2022 at 11:33 AM, Handy Don said:

 

It's working as a starter, right? 

 

Well it was a working S/G... I've never taken a single part ...apart... so many times as I did this S/G last night. Was working and started charging, i looked over those articles, Thanks again for those! I had gotten a front hitch mounted that made a PTO lever, made sure the snowthrower attached and freed it up. The chain broke but that was kind of expected. Went to finally use the tractor to mow, ran out of fuel went to re-start got a half spin out of S/G... and smoke... the cloth sheathing on the windings kept deteriorating and shorting out in other spots. So I re wrapped them with cloth tape (TESA tape awesome stuff) then a solder joint broke on the gen stud.... fixed that after searching for solder and cleaning stud...then after everything is back assembled I must have bent the armature some how... I gave up I ordered a new one last night... 2hrs gone and 11pm patience was non existent.. I'll letter and number the hood today finish painting the fender pan, and PTO lever and put a handle on it. 20220716_163952.jpg.4458a45582ef126fb87039f26454629c.jpg

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Monstrosity

So with the S/G down and out I figured I'd paint the engine.

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Monstrosity

Picked up the plow the other day it came with a C-125 it's rough has more safety features than I'd like... which maybe the route cause of no spark. Going to be looking through the manual at the wiring diagram soon to remove said safety features. If it runs nice I may fix it up but I may just end up parting out no a big fan of the plastic fenders, and i want to get a manual trans too. This c-125 has a BAD left side axle seal been leaking a loooong time. Who knows my wife might like it then she can clear the side walk of snow 😝😝20220730_143233.jpg.4a26e74d40666210bf1305b56127401a.jpg20220730_154955.jpg.b9eadb2034dbf94b2478a0c88f5f594c.jpg

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Monstrosity
On 5/8/2022 at 7:47 AM, rjg854 said:

Sounds good, and  :WRS:  I think you about hooked on our little red tractors  :laughing-rolling:

I think you nailed that one on the head 

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ebinmaine

Might very well be worth an hour or two to remove the junk wiring and temporarily wire it like a '67 or so sans all the safeties. 

Likely that Kohler 12 will be a runner.  

No worries on the axle seal. Replace all the transmission seals. 

 

That plastic fender... I think I've read that it can be retrofitted to a metal one??

 

 

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SylvanLakeWH
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

That plastic fender... I think I've read that it can be retrofitted to a metal one??


Yes it can. Any C pan should work… 

 

Here’s mine:

 

 

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