314 hydro problem

[Fishroe 261]

Just bought it not running 

Replaced fuel pump. Motor runs great. 339 hrs 

Hour meter does work

Trans goes forward and reverse but the other lever doesn’t seem to want to move

Im lost. Never owned a hydro before 

Trans fluid was low, at the bottom of the safe line on dipstick. I put 10w-30 in. Looks like it might have a leak on the end of the hydraulic hose. Hard to tell with all the crud under there.  got to clean it up. Big air bubbles in the funnel when filling. I put a quart in. Stopped to eat. Will check fluid level later

 

 

Edited May 7, 2022 by Fishroe

[pfrederi 17,859]

Other lever you mean the hydraulic lift???  You need to clean it up dump the fluid get fresh and new filter Wix 51410

[Fishroe 261]

Yes hydraulic lift

ive got the oil

a new toro filter came with it

 

[pfrederi 17,859]

Hydros are hard to fill.  Run it for a couple minutes then check the level again.    may be an air bubble.

[Fishroe 261]

Changed oil and filter. It didn’t help

i got the lift lever moving forward but not backward. Just the lever is moving not the cylinder.  It was putting a little bit of a load on the engine. Actually made the belt squeal some

what got the lever moving forward was spraying wd40 on a compression spring with a nut on top, right behind the battery.  looks like the regulator on a well pump or air compressor. I don’t know whether some linkage is binding and needs lube or what, (Talk to me Pete!!)

or the cylinder underneath is froze. I’ll do some more exploring tomorrow. I just wouldn’t think, with only 339 hours the cylinder would be bad, but I don’t know, don’t have any experience with these hydros. I’m wondering if I can unhook the cylinder and watch and see if the shaft that comes  out of the trans that drives the cylinder is turning.  Just a guessing game right now

if someone can point me in the right direction I’m all ears

Edited May 8, 2022 by Fishroe

[kpinnc 12,366]

The lift valve uses o-rings on the shaft inside the valve body. They might be dried out and sticky. If so, they will likely start leaking. Given where the valve is, it's a good idea to replace the o-rings before putting the tractor to use.

 

And degrease and clean that tranny. Remove the fender, and fuel tank and get those fins clean. Otherwise it will overheat and destroy the transmission.

 

And congrats on the tractor. A 314-H is a very good machine! 

Edited May 8, 2022 by kpinnc

[Bill D 1,932]

4 hours ago, Fishroe said:

Changed oil and filter. It didn’t help

i got the lift lever moving forward but not backward. Just the lever is moving not the cylinder.  It was putting a little bit of a load on the engine. Actually made the belt squeal some

what got the lever moving forward was spraying wd40 on a compression spring with a nut on top, right behind the battery.  looks like the regulator on a well pump or air compressor. I don’t know whether some linkage is binding and needs lube or what, (Talk to me Pete!!)

or the cylinder underneath is froze. I’ll do some more exploring tomorrow. I just wouldn’t think, with only 339 hours the cylinder would be bad, but I don’t know, don’t have any experience with these hydros. I’m wondering if I can unhook the cylinder and watch and see if the shaft that comes  out of the trans that drives the cylinder is turning.  Just a guessing game right now

if someone can point me in the right direction I’m all ears

Please post pictures of the areas of concern so we can help you better.  Thanks

[Fishroe 261]

I blew it off yesterday pretty good. I will take the fender and tank off. I would take it out of the garage, spray degreaser and pressure wash but weather here yesterday and today is 47 degrees,windy and  drizzling rain most of yesterday and today. I’ll be 2 weeks behind on planting green beans and cucumbers 

Forward and reverse is very responsive 

The main concern is why the lift lever will not move to the down position 

pic of cylinder. Looks like it’s all the way out

 

 

 

[Fishroe 261]

Cleaned it up

fins weren’t bad at all

That fitting don’t look right

need some professional verification on that

 

 

 

 

[Fishroe 261]

Saw a pic of cleats rebuild

fitting looks the same

[squonk 41,309]

I'm wondering if the rock shaft is all bound up causing the lift to load up the engine and not the lift cylinder.

[Handy Don 12,438]

Normally, when the lift cylinder reaches end-of-travel or its load limit, the pressure relief at the control will open and the engine should never be taxed at all.

If I'm reading your post correctly, @Fishroe you have problems at your control valve. A full overhaul seems indicated.

[squonk 41,309]

Disconnect your lift cylinder from the white arm and see if that arm moves back and forth freely. I have seen these freeze up solid.

 

[Fishroe 261]

I was going to take that side cover off yesterday when I was cleaning. The parking brake lock lever has a miniature roll pin in it. Does the pin have to come out or can you take the nut off and the shaft comes out with the cover. Already went through drilling out the pin in the steering shaft

When I do disconnect the arm from the cylinder should I be able to push the cylinder in and out

Wont be able to test it for a few days, ordered new fuel valve and bushing yesterday unless I hook up a gravity feed tank. I do have one 

[Handy Don 12,438]

That *$%#@ pin has to come out. A roll pin punch will help a lot and excellent support is mandatory (I took off the footrest and cut a 2x3" with a notched V that reached to the floor).

[Fishroe 261]

Damm!t man!!

time to get the blaster out.

Maybe I’ll get lucky this time

I wouldnt bet on it though 😩😩

 

Edited May 9, 2022 by Fishroe

[Fishroe 261]

Anybody know what size the 933135 roll pin is 

can’t find anything on the web 

 

[Handy Don 12,438]

Don't think I've ever measured it! ⅛" if I were guessing.

[Fishroe 261]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That *$%#@ pin has to come out. A roll pin punch will help a lot and excellent support is mandatory (I took off the footrest and cut a 2x3" with a notched V that reached to the floor).

I will try that thanks Don

[Fishroe 261]

Got the pin out.

After taking the panel with the gauges off hopefully I found the problem 

The compression spring thingy attached to the lift lever was rusted pretty bad and sticking. The plunger in the, I guess that’s called the control valve, wasn’t going in and out like it should 

The other one on the motion lever was sticking some too 1st pic. I hope the control valve is not bad. I would guess that’s not made any longer

grease fitting on the bottom of the steering shaft, I wouldn’t think they put that in like that from the factory 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,438]

If the piston goes in and out of the control valve smoothly (and is rust free) that's a good sign that the issue might be confined to the linkage. I'm still bothered that lift taxed the engine--that indicates that the pressure relief valve (built into the control valve on this model) is not functioning as it should.

 

That zerk on the bottom of the steering block? Absolutely factory and probably the least used by many owners (it IS clearly marked in the owner's manual diagram). Wallowing at that block is the source of a lot of slopping steering.

Edited May 9, 2022 by Handy Don

[Fishroe 261]

Is the control valve available if needed

[Handy Don 12,438]

Definitely available used from AtoZ and I think WH PartsandMore will refurb them.

Both vendors vendors listed under Classified/Vendors at the top of this page.

[Fishroe 261]

That’s good to know

Thanks for your help

[Horse Newbie 7,114]

On 5/9/2022 at 9:09 AM, squonk said:

Disconnect your lift cylinder from the white arm and see if that arm moves back and forth freely. I have seen these freeze up solid.

 

I need a link to that hard-wired hour meter…