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CodyP

opinion on best battery for re-wire of raider 9

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CodyP

just got the wires for my raider 9 heck she ain't even got a battery but I know how to wire her up red's length and blacks width but if I want head/brake and turn signal lights any suggestions on where to find em or which kind to use or any related posts I could not find any 

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Maxwell-8

U1's are the battery most people use including me

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Achto

If you wish to add Tail, Brake , and Signal lights I would suggest picking out some dual filament trailer lights. There are many different sizes & styles, just pick out something that you like. Can be incandescent or LED. For head lights I would pick out a small driving light that you like the looks of.

 

I picked out these driving lights for one of my tractors. They really light the way.

DSCN2659-min_JPG_0ef5085567e74d9a307fe1d6bc86b9a2.jpg.4672e1569d07e2406b9898d0abfca90b.jpg

 

For batteries, I just run the U1 EverStarts from WalMart.

Edited by Achto
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ri702bill

Cody

Welcome - there are manuals you can download here for free - I took a look at the 1968 Raider 9 Electrical diagram and noticed that is has a 10 Amp charging system (better than the 3 amp of earlier started/generator versions) and NO starter solenoid. That means ALL the current to start goes thru the ignition switch. Since you are doing a rewire anyway, you may wish to add in a solenoid. As for the battery - since you plan on adding lights - try to find one with more than 350 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). They are available in the U1 or U1-R size - Tractor Supply may have what you need.

Whichever battery you buy, and wherever you buy it, check the sticker on it FIRST before you purchase it for the Date of Manufacture. It makes no sense to buy a new battery that has a 90 Warranty if it is already over a year old from sitting on a shelf....

Bill

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lynnmor

Get the lawn & garden battery of your choice, I prefer brands made by East Penn.  As stated above, check the date of manufacture.  Cold cranking amps might be specified at 32 degrees or zero degrees, choose one with at least 300 CCA at zero degrees.  For example, there are some rated at 410 CCA and then in the fine print say 350 CCA at zero.  Always fully charge a battery before putting it in service and then keep it at full charge as much as possible at all times, I use a 1.25 amp Battery Tender brand charger and that works well.

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ri702bill
29 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Always fully charge a battery before putting it in service and then keep it at full charge as much as possible at all times, I use a 1.25 amp Battery Tender brand charger and that works well.

Words of wisdom there - once a lead / acid battery is fully discharged, it starts to sulfate & shed the lead on the cell plates and that material falls into the cavity below the plates. Once 2 plates are bridged they are done for....

Edited by ri702bill
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johnnymag3

Interstate Batteries in all of my equipment......Cars, Trucks, Tractors...…..

 

Never an issue....they stay on a GOOD battery tender during times of dormancy

 

JM2C

 

 

John   :)

 

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CodyP

thank you all so much for your help and please try to be patient as I can't download anything I live out in the middle of nowhere 

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Bucks

in the middle of no--where sounds great!

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